Pre order round 2 is closed! Thank you everyone
IF YOU MISSED OUT, EMAIL NOTIFICATION SIGNUP IS HERE: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1GjEG1c ... T6cbRBVW_4
STATUS: CLOSED - SHIPPED!
To get a good idea of how this project works, please read this user manual PDF, and it should answer most questions!
https://github.com/geebles/Super-AIO/ra ... E_V1.1.pdf
Is the soldering hard? For THIS pre-order, I have changed to use THROUGH HOLE pins for the GPIO connector. This will make it MUCH easier to solder The main thing it brings is RELIABILITY in being able to see the solder joins on both sides! Here is the OLD video, I will make a NEW one soon showing you how it is done.. but trust me it's easier
The key is to be patient and do it like I have done in the video; where you only make a small change, and test, and repeat.
Original development thread: http://www.sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=243
Support thread: http://www.sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=27888
Changes since first round
There have been a number of changes since the first round for this order, the main ones are highlighted below:
- Wifi module not included (these are VERY cheap to buy and easy to solder yourself) - With the Pi Zero W and Pi3, makes more sense to have this as an extra. If you are using a Pi Zero, you can solder a module on very easily!
- 3mm LEDs not included and NOT NEEDED, new board design has them built in. You can chose to remove them easily as the LEDs 'snap off' without damaging the board
- Solder through holes! No more SMD soldering for the GPIO connector.. guide coming soon, but it's easier than before!
- Minor tweaks to the board design - Made solder pads stronger, moved the LED order so the status really is optional, other bits..
- Soldering service has a QUANTITY LIMIT and also costs a lot more! - This has been by far the most time consuming bit and I have to put a limit on the number of these, also I spend a lot of time on them and the price I put previously was a little silly.. the price here may be offputting (partly intentional) and I'm sorry about that, but perhaps if you can't do it that you know of someone local to you who may be able to do it far quicker and cheaper than I can?
- Bsttery JST PH 2.0mm cable no longer an option (these are cheap to buy anyway, links will be provided)
- ONLY UK, USA, Canada, Europe, Australia, New Zealand, Brazil (sorry no Asia, Africa, other South America)
Here is how it will go down.. these are 'press fit' connectors, they have a lump near the bottom to get stuck in the holes of the Pi:
Place in top of Pi, and using some plastic and a hammer, gently tap them down:
Result, only bent a few pins but the top ones don't matter as we will cut them off later!
From the bottom, we can see they protrude quite a bit, perfect for what we want..
Placing on the SAIO, they fit perfectly down the holes:
If we look on the other side, enough poke out! We will then SOLDER these:
The final step is to flip the board over and snip the long metal pins (that I bent earlier) all the way down to the plastic.. as an extra step, we could pull off the plastic and solder where the exposed pins are so that we have solder on both sides
Extra buttons for 6 button action? Adding just for fun, not necessary:
- A REAL 'All in one' that really does do it ALL in ONE
- Main PCB fills the 'front' half of a shell
- DPI LCD with support for 320x240 LCD (included)
- Built in USB 2.0 HUB
- Built in ATMEGA32u4 for buttons and joystick (UDLR, ABXY, L1L2, R1R2, JoyX, JoyY, battery monitor, AMP and WIFI enable/disable, status LED, backlight brightness control).. has 2x spare analogue pins as solder pads!
- Supports the classic 'SNES' style button arrangement as well as the 'vertically aligned' style (required for the 3DS joystick in the middle)
- Built in 1A charger and load balance (play and charge at same time, you'll need a 2.5/3A charger to do this)
- Built in efficient regulators (3.3v and 5v)
- Built in SD slot in contrast port
- Built in 2.4W amplifier + headphone jack (with auto switch off when headphones plugged in)
- Built in volume pot
- Built in Over temperature fan enable (5V or 3.3V)
- Built in Safe shutdown, with low batt warning
- Built in emergency shutdown (REALLY important if the Pi freezes or crashes as otherwise you'd have to disassemble to remove the power!)
- Built in WIFI (module required) (with enable/disable by button combo)
- Built in external USB port in the 'EXT' slot
- Built in Micro USB port for charging and uploading sketched to ATMEGA32u4 (optional hole required to use this in a shell)
- Additional 'mode' button to enable things like backlight adjustment, audio amp disable/enable, wifi enable/disable, etc (ideal to locate where the original barrel jack goes)
- Supports a Pi Zero and Pi Zero W (directly soldered to PCB)
- Supports a Pi3 (or 2) with optional 'GPIO Extender'
- The back half of shell is relatively untouched, cartridge boards can be used and solder pads available for SD card in cartridge
- Full sized main board. Fully soldered, tested, and programmed
- Back board (USB Port, Volpot, Power switch connector, Mode button connector) which is very small
- 320x240 LCD (DPI, clear and bright!)
- Board interlink cables
- Power switch (as close to original as I can find)
- Mode button (goes in the charging jack port)
Additional Parts Required
The following are needed to complete your build:
+ A few extras, see below:
- Case/enclosure - eBay/Aliexpress
- Conductive button pads - eBay/Aliexpress
- Additional buttons for X and Y - eBay/Aliexpress
- Shoulder buttons - eBay/Aliexpress
- ~3000mAh battery - eBay/Aliexpress/Dextech batt
- JST battery cable - eBay/Aliexpress (search for "JST PH 2-Pin")
- Speaker - "VECO 28mm" is my fav, but anything up to 30mm will fit nicely
- WiFi module - eBay/Aliexpress (search for "RTL8188EUS")
- USB charging cable - eBay/Aliexpress (search for "7mm micro usb cable", the KEY is that it is 7mm in length, I advise something like this (it should be $3.99 btw) : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1m-2-4A ... 60883.html)
- Screen surround - retrofresh.uk/Kitsch-bent.com
- Pi Zero or Pi Zero W - ThePiHut/Pimoroni/Adafruit/etc
- Tools (Soldering iron with pointed tip (Adjustable temp + quality solder), drill, dremel, sharp knife, kapton tape!)
- (optional) Screen bracket - http://www.sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=2553
- (optional) 3DS or PSP joystick - eBay/Aliexpress
Pre-order will be open for a time duration with no limit on quantity. IF there are too many orders (determined by the PCB manufacturer) then the order will be split in two (people will be notified) which will mean an approx 2-3 week delay for people in the second half order. Here is a little timeline that will get updated over time to show the key dates:
Curent status: Boards being made
[20/03/2017] Pre-order open!
[03/04/2017] Pre-order closes.
[06/04/2017] Number of orders and other components calculated, orders placed.
[25/05/2017] Boards + other components arrive (time to test them!)
[09/06/2017] Orders ready to ship <-- You are here
Will it really take this long? Yeah probably.. the last order had Chinese new year which added 2-4weeks extra which was a massive pain, this time there aren't such festivals, and also I've done all this once before so it should go smoother!!
I will edit here when there are updates!
PayPal Pre-Order Links
I am leaving the links and pictures here, however they will result in an 'out of stock' if you try and order
Kite's SUPER AIO
(Board + Backboard + 320x240 DPI LCD + Wires + USB + Button + Switch)
Pi3 Extension Ribbon
(Pi3 adapter + AIO adapter + SD cable + 10cm ribbon)
SUPER AIO Soldering Service
(Send in your Pi Zero and I will fit and solder it for you. Fully tested! If SD is included I won't flash anything to it, sorry! Images available on github anyway.
You will need to ship your Pi Zero to me in the UK. This is only for the Pi Zero/W, I won't desolder your Pi3 sorry
17x17x3mm 3.3V Blower Fan
(VERY small and thin fan, it is a blower rather than an axial fan. Why so expensive? They don't appear to make them any more..)
Payment is by PayPal, I have used the 'add to cart' functionality and when you click the buttons above it will take you to a PayPal cart (you can keep adding things to the cart if you come back to this page, I suggest 'right click -> open in a new tab/window'). PayPal offers full buyer protection, any issues please get in contact with me first!
PLEASE SET YOUR ADDRESS CORRECTLY! You will be charged if re-shipment is required due to incorrect address, so get it right If you change your address please message me but please try to plan ahead where possible!
If you change your mind, there is a 100% refund available all the way up until I ship the boards to you Just message me.
Shipping cost? Shipping time? Do you ship to XYZ?
Shipping is calculated at checkout, PayPal doesn't implement a nice set of shipping options (but only if you have a US seller account, go figure..) so prices are set at an international rate! Sorry UK people but I have to charge the full amount, refunds aren't possible due to time (they will arrive next day after posting tho!). ALL shipments are sent first class tracked by RoyalMail and will require a signature. Tracking information will make its way to you!
Shipping is ONLY to UK, USA, Canada, Europe, Australia, New Zealand, Brazil (sorry no Asia, Africa, other South America, or anywhere not on the first list. You will get an immediate refund if you are in one of these zones).
If you have any special postage requirements, please include in the order notes!
What about the 640x480 LCD Option?
I'm still working on this, it's not as easy as the current LCD.. Rest assured progress is being made and I'll message when it's ready (I don't even have a working proto of it yet, that's how hard it has been to get working!). I will probably do it as a separate thing not tied to the SAIO pre-order As far as expectations go, the LCD panel itself is $65, and it'll be + an extra $10 or so for the adapter.. it'll also require careful cutting of the case as it is 1mm too big.. again I'll update in a separate thread on this!
How do I do XYZ? Do I need XYZ? Do you recommend XYZ?
Read the user guide at the top of this post! To get the board working you NEED: Case, Buttons (+conductive pads), Battery, JST PH cable, Speaker, Pi Zero, uSD card. Anything additional to the list is up to you and use your imagination, this is your project after-all I won't be answering any 'can I use XYZ?', but if you use common sense you'll be able to work it out it is as simple as soldering the Zero in, connecting up the back board and cables, and powering on (with a lot of case modding in the process!).
I recommend you to use a Pi Zero W, the Pi3 is a LOT more involved and you'll need to de-solder all the components from a Pi3, trust me you will have a GREAT time with the Zero!
For a battery I would recommend a flat Li-ion or Li-Poly (lipo) that is 2500-3000mAh in size with a protection board built in (this will give 5-8hrs of playtime and 3hrs chargetime). Your best bet is eBay/Aliexpress.. FYI make sure the WIDTH of the battery is no bigger than 50mm otherwise it won't fit between the screw posts.. a good height is 55-60mm, and thickness can be anything up to 14mm I think. Check the forum as the battery isn't unique in this project, any battery that others have fitted WILL work here.. Don't use AA's or the lipo equivalent size one.. I wouldn't recommend anything bigger, but it's up to you I really don't mind what you do
This project is a DIY project, you will need to do some cutting and case modding, some soldering (not much though) and perhaps a bit of linux too, I will create a guide that will get you running, the rest is up to you this isn't a pre-made and it'll just work, it's still a project but I've taken all the electronic hard work (and risk of failure) out of the question for you
Warranty? What if I break it?
Where possible, I will help and identify what is wrong if it doesn't work for you. Every board is tested FULLY before shipping so I know it was working when posted. Because it is DIY there are limits to what I can do, if things really aren't working you can send the board back and for a fee (£45) I will repair and ship back to you working (shipping included, all inclusive regardless of problem).
Note that this is a DIY project, and you can do it with minimal experience! But you MUST follow the guide/video exactly to the letter.. if in doubt get someone to help, or select the 'solder service' and I'll take care of the soldering for you. 9/10 times projects like this are ruined by a poor soldering iron, and poor solder.. you need an ADJUSTABLE TEMPERATURE IRON, and GOOD SOLDER THAT CONTAINS FLUX (clean it off afterwards). Do not put the iron too high (if you see burning marks, it's too high.. test on something less valuable!). Practice soldering on something else, doing this as your first project is a bit of a risk!
CHECK THE BATTERY POLARITY BEFORE PLUGGING IN! No returns if you have done this and burnt anything out, as the pads are clearly marked. Reports from a previous user said that the board worked fine after this mistake (his battery had a protection circuit, which must have helped!).
If you have any questions, please READ this post and thread. If that doesn't answer your question then send a message on Discord, or send me a PM and I'll answer the question in this FAQ This thread may get quickly filled with questions and repeats but that's ok! You can unsubscribe from this thread as all major updates you will get an email to your paypal email address