All in One PCB Support Thread

[Macx]

What are the vlaues of the resistors next to the heqadphone socket? if you look back on the last couple of pages you will see what people did to fix the low volume with changing the resistors to a lower value like something around 100ohms instead of the 200 that is on your current board in R15 and R16.

Hello helder, thanks for your quick reply. It is not so that the sound is quiet ... only when the volume is turned up over 1/5 (Max) the sound begins to hack and crack, but loudly it is after ... is also the error you Have described?

[Helder]

Hello helder, thanks for your quick reply. It is not so that the sound is quiet ... only when the volume is turned up over 1/5 (Max) the sound begins to hack and crack, but loudly it is after ... is also the error you Have described?

Could you take a picture of the socket area so I can see the resistor values?

[Macx]

Could you take a picture of the socket area so I can see the resistor values?

@First, thanx for Help

I have sell this GBZ with a USB Headset, and all is ok. Best Regards!! Macx

[fernandinho1337]

Hello guys,

*EDIT* after searching a bit more I found it. Thank you



Best regards,

Toni

[Horse Sally]

so i tried a couple of games that kinda need a 8way movement like mk/street fighter etc. cant jump forward consistently or tbh almost never , this makes this games unplayable :/ anyone got any ideas to fix this ?.

I'm having the same issue with my AIO v2.0. I've be tried looking all over sudomod forums for an answer- anyone have any insight on this?

[Helder]

so i tried a couple of games that kinda need a 8way movement like mk/street fighter etc. cant jump forward consistently or tbh almost never , this makes this games unplayable :/ anyone got any ideas to fix this ?.

I'm having the same issue with my AIO v2.0. I've be tried looking all over sudomod forums for an answer- anyone have any insight on this?

Try reprogramming the controller with a USBasp or the Arduino IDE (look in the Other Hardware subforum), also check to be sure there isn't something causing pressure on the dpad area of the board or that the silicone pads are large enough to make contact with the traces on the board.

[Paddy]

UPDATE: FIXED

Ok so disabled one of the input channels by changing the config to mono in the config.txt

Sound working perfectly.

The solder joint for the left input volume pot must have been disconnected unbeknownst to me previously and i reattached it causing this issue when i realigned the HDMI port

I suspect that anyone using this resistor fix and still getting choppy sound switches to mono and retests

What is the exact line you used in the config.txt? I will add it to the fixes on the first post along with an updated wiring diagram that corresponds to this fix. Thanks.

Hi @Helder

I used:

dtoverlay=pwm,pin=18,func=2

However I could have used:

dtoverlay=pwm,pin=13,func=4

My logic being that as I left all inputs soldered to the volume pot (rather than opening the GBZ again), it makes no difference what channel I stopped using.

Based on this, If you de-solder one of the inputs from the volume pot obviously you'll need to use the correct mono config line to ensure you get audio from the input you left attached.

So probably easier to just use mono config

It's also working for me ... I get very clean sound. But one channel is missing ... just try Super Mario on GB. You can hear that one channel is missing ...

PS: I have now soldered the both GPOI's to PMW1 and with the 75Ohm fix the sound is now ok. It's still not good quality but I have no noise and there is no more choppy sound and I can hear both channels (dtoverlay=pwm-2chan,pin=18,func=2,pin2=13,func2=4)

[Paddy]

just FYI ... I get now perfect clean load sound with following modifications:

1) wire both GPOI's to PWM1 (don't solder PWM0)
2) do the 75ohm fix as described
3) wire the ground-pin of your headphone jack to ground switch (it's the upper right pin of the AIO Board 2.2)
4) adjust your sound with "alsamixer"
5) adjust sound settings in Retropie to 100% System volume

with this I have a very nice sound (USB sound will always be better) ... with wiring the ground to the ground-switch I have no choppy sound anymore.

There is still some noise on the headphone jack but it's acceptable for me ...

[fernandinho1337]

just FYI ... I get now perfect clean load sound with following modifications:

1) wire both GPOI's to PWM1 (don't solder PWM0)
2) do the 75ohm fix as described
3) wire the ground-pin of your headphone jack to ground switch (it's the upper right pin of the AIO Board 2.2)
4) adjust your sound with "alsamixer"
5) adjust sound settings in Retropie to 100% System volume

with this I have a very nice sound (USB sound will always be better) ... with wiring the ground to the ground-switch I have no choppy sound anymore.

There is still some noise on the headphone jack but it's acceptable for me ...

Can you post pictures of the finished "mod" ?

Best regards

[rodocop]

@helder

The newest board just arrived, and I've completed another build with the vga screen! I have one question about the board and the button presses. When pressing almost all of the buttons, they seem slightly unresponsive. To get actions to occur, I have to make sure to press down hard to guarantee a response. Have you heard of this issue before? I've looked all over the forums, but I never see anything about the responsiveness of the button presses.

I'll try to just clean the board and buttons with isopropyl alcohol, but please advise on any other methods!

Thanks for everything!

@blameblaine

did you ever solve this issue? Did you reprogram the board like @Helder suggested? I seem to be having the same issue. But it is only happening with my X + Y buttons (noticeably worse with the Y button). I have tried a few different silicone button pads, and cut them so they do not hit the screen etc...But I still need to press the button quite hard to register.

Before I buy a USBasp programmer I would like to know how you resolved this (if you did). I will likely take it apart one more time and rearrange the silicone pad again and if that doesn't work i'll try to reprogram.

I also recall seeing somewhere that someone added small pieces of plastic under the buttons to make the button pads contact the PCB better, anyone do that?

It's not the end of world, and I have just been dealing with it, but I prefer to use the B and Y buttons when playing NES, GB, GBA, etc... But for now I have just use the A and B buttons.