I've most of the stuff I need, about to begin the testing phase.

[joe7dust]

Just trying to be as minimalist as possible. Fewer parts mean I'll have an easier time stuffing it all into the GBA SP shell, and less points of failure. I already saw one post where someone's hub wasn't compatible with Raspian.

Gotcha. Just plan your GPIO pins really well. Good luck!

What about WiFi/Bluetooth or are you going without?

No need on the wifi, just going to use the SD card for file transfer. Pretty sure I can fit a few hundred GBA roms on a 4gb card and seal up the unit for good. On my 2nd version, I might make one with the cartridge mod where you can swap out the SD by using different cartridges, but for this prototype I want it to be as simple and close to stock GBA SP as possible.

[joe7dust]

Just trying to be as minimalist as possible. Fewer parts mean I'll have an easier time stuffing it all into the GBA SP shell, and less points of failure. I already saw one post where someone's hub wasn't compatible with Raspian.

Gotcha. Just plan your GPIO pins really well. Good luck!

What about WiFi/Bluetooth or are you going without?

I'm definitely interested in learning more about the GPIO stuff!

Do you think it is feasible to wire each switch to the GPIO manually for the controls, while also using @popcorn's guide for the PWM audio? (modified to mono & without volume control) I will be using many of the GPIO pins already to connect the TFT display driver board. In the event of a conflict regarding the GPIO, I could just switch to composite video or a USB DAC.

Some quick math on how I could free up GPIO space:

USB DAC= $5 premium
Composite Display= $16 to $45 premium (would be less if I hadn't already ordered that TFT one)
Teensy or Arduino for controls= $5 to $20 premium

Looks like the PWM audio would be dropped from the GPIO in the event I can't use it for all 3 interfaces I mentioned. (audio/video/controls)

[joe7dust]

I am not sure if this power supply has got enough mAh to get this whole setup started.
The components usually need more when they turn on.
Also, you will not be able to play during charging of the battery.

Also, buy desoldering wick, if you make a mistake.
The micro USB Port is for charging the battery, if i am right.
The USB A Port is for connecting a USB Drive/WiFi Dongle or something else.

I'm still not sure what you were referring to when you say "USB" ... I believe the only USB A port in all of this is on the DC-DC booster board, and that is the only port on that board. I don't think it uses data at all so connecting a drive or wifi wouldn't do anything.

There are 2 micro USB B ports on the pi zero, 1 for power and 1 for data. No USB A ports at all. I'm confused.

[Fleder]

I'm still not sure what you were referring to when you say "USB" ... I believe the only USB A port in all of this is on the DC-DC booster board, and that is the only port on that board. I don't think it uses data at all so connecting a drive or wifi wouldn't do anything.

There are 2 micro USB B ports on the pi zero, 1 for power and 1 for data. No USB A ports at all. I'm confused.

I am talking about the actual GameBoy Zero, the final product. You know, the one from the subforum you are posting in.
It uses 1 MicroB USB Port for Charging and 1 USB A Port for plugging in other stuff.
Everything else is connected via wires directly instead of using the USB Connectors, i think.

You asked what the USB Ports are for, so i answered. What exactly is your question now?

[Kilren]

I am talking about the actual GameBoy Zero, the final product. You know, the one from the subforum you are posting in.

What is your purpose in this? That is fairly obvious, and its statement is completely unneeded unless you're going for rude.

[Fleder]

I am talking about the actual GameBoy Zero, the final product. You know, the one from the subforum you are posting in.

What is your purpose in this? That is fairly obvious, and its statement is completely unneeded unless you're going for rude.

Not at all. He was asking about the purpose of the USB Ports and i answered him. He also send me a PM to remind of answering. I just don't get what he is asking me, if not what i already answered. That is all.

If he is not following the GBZ Tutorial, which uses those USB Connections, then his thread might be in the wrong subforum.

I did not mean to be rude or anything.

[joe7dust]

Update: That cellphone battery is too big, so looking for alternatives. Must be 2000 mAh or better, would be awesome if it was 5V so I could drop the booster from my design. Also on the audio stuff, I think I'll be building a PWM circuit so I guess I need to order a 270R, 150R, 33N & 10U for that.

[joe7dust]

Speaker turns out to be 1.5W that is going to be quite a bit louder than the 0.5W that most people used. Will be interesting to see how it works out.

I still need to order switches and a battery. The goal here is to be as simple and cheap as possible while still retaining that stock look. I'd love to see some 5v battery options if anyone knows of any. There are downsides to using a DC-DC booster at all, especially when most people are having to pay around $30 for their booster boards after shipping.

[joe7dust]

Still looking for a 5v battery, and some switches!

[joe7dust]

I'm looking to wrap up the ordering phase today, so last chance for anyone to share their inputs on this design! Thanks again.