[WIP] CPEB's GBZ

[cpeb]

Hi All

Found the forum 2 weeks ago after setting up Libreelecc with a ps3 controller and decided i really wanted a portable version. So after watching Wermy's videos too many times and reading majority of the other peoples builds i thought id start do my own and get a WIP up.

And also if i didnt i would forget what i needed or where i was upto.

and so...

Part 1 : Parts List (if i've missed anything please let me know)

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• Case - Link - Purchased / Delivered

• Found this after though, not sure about the 2 tone though - Link

• Screen - Link (managed to buy 2 - have spare in sale section) - Purchased / Delivered

• Power - Link - Purchased but have decided to try and use a 9600mah 18650 usb power bank i have first

• Battery - Link - Purchased / Delivered

• USB Sound - Link - Purchased

• Prototype Board - Link or Link - Purchased / Delivered

• Button PCB - Link - Purchased / Delivered

• Buttons - Link - Purchased / Delivered

• AMP - Link or Link - Purchased / Delivered

• Speaker - Link - Purchased / Delivered

• LR buttons - thinking maybe these - Link or Link (cant decide whether to use the snes buttons like some or widish push buttons)

• Teensy LC - Link - Purchased / Delivered / Programmed

• Volume - Link - Purchased / Delivered

• USB Hub - Link - Purchased / Delivered

• USB Breakout - Link - Purchased / Delivered

• Wire - Link - Purchased / Delivered

• Screen Surround and Cartridge Cover - Link - Purchased

• RPi 3 - Purchased / Delivered

• 3D Printer - impulse buy after seeing everyone creating brackets etc - Purchased

And so it begins:

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Drilling Holes

Done - Not happy that i managed to chip the side of the hole on the second grrrrr but i used a 10mm bit so have 1mm left to cut out which hopefully will make it look nicer including a bevel

Screen in - used High Temp automobile double sided tape, its bloody strong also used it to wedge the speaker in. Not 100% on the screen cut out BUT i can clean up later


Buttons In - Well standard ones - ive gone for matching on the additional 2

Wired up the teesny and mounted on the back of the button PCB

First boot to make sure pi still works after a bit of desoldering running of 18650 battery pack.

Working on the rear of the case at the min, glued the battery door shut but then realised how am i going to use the screw holes will sort that out later, also had txt from DHL, 3D printer left HK Sat morning and is now in UK
Printed a holder for the Pi to sit on that sits flush with back of the case, i used 1mm thick heat resistant dble sided ticky foam to mount to the pi, this gives the chips a gap aswell for airflow.

Decided to use the power button from the USB Power Bank as it was round in the DC adapter hole. The original button was too small to do anything with so swapped it for a 6x6mm tactile button which required some out of the box thinking so i created a holder and printed it out.




Works Perfect now Hot glue will be removed as i dont like what i've done and i'll use the solvent to fuse the back to the side of the cartridge slot hole. The Reason for Stepping on the design is due to me not knowing how to match the gradient of the case, once i figure that out in Tinkercad i will reprint
Next i moved onto the Vol and USB again didn't want to hot glue everywhere so designed and printed out a holder for both.



The Volume wheel spins perfectly without catching, forgot to take a pic of the front before i glued it in place using solvent glue to fuse the plastic. This is what it looks like in Tinkercad

Next up was the case, the problem i had was that i needed the room in the case so removed the screw posts at the bottom in the back and the ones from the front for the screen. Solution



2 Bottom ones being fitted tonight also the screws will be changed to black ones when they turn up.

Anyone wanting to below are the STLs for the parts the list is short at the min as the rest i haven't printed and tested yet, i will add as and when i'm 100% they work:

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Usb & Volume Wheel Holder - i used the foam tape again for mounting the female usb to the bracket, i will probably change it not sure to what though
http://cpeb.co.uk/.Uploads/Volume-USB-Holder.stl
Power Button Holder, dimensions for button are 6mmx6mmx4mm (wxhxd)
http://cpeb.co.uk/.Uploads/Power-Button-Holder.stl
Pi Back
http://cpeb.co.uk/.Uploads/Pi-Holder.stl
Case Brackets
http://cpeb.co.uk/.Uploads/Case-Bracket.stl

Nearlly there now, got the device and all bit working and powered.

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It's as neat as i think i can get it, the only think i want to do now is cover any solder points used with a small cover of hot glue to prevent shorts, the only one not getting glue is the power that's having a cover printed for it.
I designed a holder for the back of the screen to hold the teensy, power board, and display board to keep everything in place

Only things left to do

• Figure out why i have no sound but have a buzz like you used to get on your car radio

• Print shoulder button holders and mount - i decided to put 2 at the top of the back case and 2 where everyone normally puts them

• File out the Charger pot hole - Mini Files on order

• Print tabs that block the old switch hole and contrast hole

[rodocop]

I've never used the adafruit powerboost. But it seems like everyone uses the 1000C not the 1000 basic. The 1000C will let you charge and play at the same time. Where the 1000 does not charge just provides power.

Maybe someone else with more knowledge can chime in. All you other parts look good though!

[cpeb]

Gutted lol - will return the basic and get the c version. Knew i should have done the list first lol

Thanks for the heads up

[cpeb]

Does anyone think this could work having a seperate output to the battery?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5V-1A-Micro-U ... 2548.l4275

[Lpoolm]

I've had a few of those hubs from different places, they worked ok on pi 3 but not zero.

[cpeb]

updated

[RogerX]

One thing I have learned through some pretty crazy amounts of trial and error is that the screen bezel comes out a million times cleaner if you use a hobbyknife along a ruler to score the plastic about 20-25 times, getting about 2/3rds through the plastic, before snapping off the plastic with pliers then using the hobby knife to shave the edge clean. YMMV but I love the finished look you get.

[docholiday11x]

if youre using the pi 3 use the powerboost 1000b not c.

1000c puts out 1amp while the pi 3 needs 2.5. 1000b (the one you listed) can put out the amperage needed to run everything, if you do not use the jst connector and if you have either a 3.7v lipo, or 3 nimh batteries.

you can run everytyhing off the 1000c but the performance will be lackluster and you wont be able to play psx or n64 games.

[cpeb]

[cpeb]

Updated