I've most of the stuff I need, about to begin the testing phase.

[joe7dust]

[CORE]
- RPi0 (not sure if the version with camera or not, does it matter?)
- LCD
- GBA SP shell + buttons
- Battery
- DC-DC booster to convert battery up to 5V *note: Not the recommended alternative to 1000c; seems to serve the same function for less
- Audio Amp
- Speaker

[MISC]
- Copper Tape
- Electrical Tape
- Exacto Knife Kit
- Soldering Iron DON'T BUY THIS IT IS CRAP! Didn't make good contact with socket and failed to melt solder after 15 minutes of warm-up. ended up grabbing a butane torch/hot-air/solderer 3in1 combo locally for $20 and it gets hot in 15-30 seconds.
- Solder
- Hot Glue Gun & Sticks
- OTG USB Cable
- Multimeter

[PARTS I ALREADY HAVE]
- Micro USB B to USB A cable (for power)
- Mini HDMI to Full HDMI Adapter
- HDMI Monitor
- USB Keyboard
- Spare Ethernet Cord (a sacrifice to the 26 AWG wiring gods)
- Small Tri-Wing & Phillips Screwdrivers
- Random cords w/ (hopefully) 18 to 22 AWG for powered wiring (SATA cable? One of the extra OTG cables I linked earlier maybe?)

[THINGS I MIGHT STILL NEED OR ARE UNSURE ABOUT]
- Audio Buffer Board | I'd prefer to connect amp/speaker directly to the RPi0 & avoid this part if possible.
- Low-pass Audio Filter | I don't need this if it's only a sound quality thing, lol did you see the speaker I'm using?
- Potentiometer | I'd prefer a fixed volume & avoid this if possible.
- Switches | Unsure on exact sizes/quantity. Pi GRRL Zero guide recommends 8x 6mm, 2x 12mm & slide switch for power IIRC.
- USB Hub | Guide recommends this but I don't see a reason for it if I don't require more than 1 USB device at a time.
- Micro USB Port | Unsure what this is for. RPi0 comes w/ 1 for Data & 1 for Power already. Plus there are 2 points on the underside that can be used instead of the actual port {I think it is still the same port though so it's not like you get an extra USB by using these points})

[Fleder]

I am not sure if this power supply has got enough mAh to get this whole setup started.
The components usually need more when they turn on.
Also, you will not be able to play during charging of the battery.

Also, buy desoldering wick, if you make a mistake.
The micro USB Port is for charging the battery, if i am right.
The USB A Port is for connecting a USB Drive/WiFi Dongle or something else.

[joe7dust]

I am not sure if this power supply has got enough mAh to get this whole setup started.
The components usually need more when they turn on.
Also, you will not be able to play during charging of the battery.

Also, buy desoldering wick, if you make a mistake.
The micro USB Port is for charging the battery, if i am right.
The USB A Port is for connecting a USB Drive/WiFi Dongle or something else.

I believe it outputs 600 mA, and looking at the numbers on another thread in these forums it seems like 500 mA will be the highest draw with everything connected, biggest of which would be the screen which is 1.1W power consumption.

Please clarify which component you are talking about when you say "USB" there are a few here.

[Kilren]

deleted

[joe7dust]

yep

[Kilren]

I edited my comment before you replied. I think he might have been talking about the sparkfun board but I'm not sure so I asked him to be more specific. https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12035

The extra usb micro is a breakout board that allows external access for easy charging. Like the usb micro for your phone.

[joe7dust]

I edited my comment before you replied. I think he might have been talking about the sparkfun board but I'm not sure so I asked him to be more specific. https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12035

The extra usb micro is a breakout board that allows external access for easy charging. Like the usb micro for your phone.

I planned to use the micro USB b port that is already built into the pi for charging. There is also a 2nd data-only micro USB b port that doesn't have a use set in stone yet. I'd like to do this build without the need for a hub, and depending on how I'm able to get audio working I might have to use that 1 data port for a USB DAC.

[Kilren]

I planned to use the micro USB b port that is already built into the pi for charging. There is also a 2nd data-only micro USB b port that doesn't have a use set in stone yet. I'd like to do this build without the need for a hub, and depending on how I'm able to get audio working I might have to use that 1 data port for a USB DAC.

If you're looking to save a USB slot, you can pull audio through pwm. Popcorn's guide

Any particular reason why you're avoiding using a hub? It's possible, though seems like a lot of work to save $6

[joe7dust]

I planned to use the micro USB b port that is already built into the pi for charging. There is also a 2nd data-only micro USB b port that doesn't have a use set in stone yet. I'd like to do this build without the need for a hub, and depending on how I'm able to get audio working I might have to use that 1 data port for a USB DAC.

If you're looking to save a USB slot, you can pull audio through pwm. Popcorn's guide

Any particular reason why you're avoiding using a hub? It's possible though, seems like a lot of work to save $6

Just trying to be as minimalist as possible. Fewer parts mean I'll have an easier time stuffing it all into the GBA SP shell, and less points of failure. I already saw one post where someone's hub wasn't compatible with Raspian.

[Kilren]

Just trying to be as minimalist as possible. Fewer parts mean I'll have an easier time stuffing it all into the GBA SP shell, and less points of failure. I already saw one post where someone's hub wasn't compatible with Raspian.

Gotcha. Just plan your GPIO pins really well. Good luck!

What about WiFi/Bluetooth or are you going without?