I wonder if you could drill a hole in the middle of that copper plate on the back, so you can poke a pin in there.

Alternatively, now that you know what the socket looks like, you can trawl through Aliexpress or eBay for something similar.

theabstractpyro wrote: ↑

Sat Dec 02, 2017 10:19 pm

aromatic wifi setup not working

Well that stinks.

https://www.mortoffgames.com/repair-and ... uct_id=807
http://www.consolesandgadgets.co.uk/cat ... -5290.html

If you open the shell, you might be able to use a straight pin through the back to push the blockage out.

Most hobby shops that cater to R/C aircraft will stock carbon fiber sheet stock. Barring that, it's not hard to find on-line.

Nobody else?

I'm thinking of having some 3D printed, but it doesn't really make sense for just one set of buttons. So... gauging interest. :) They'd be dyed, sintered nylon, so they'd have a slight texture, but nothing too drastic. https://www.shapeways.com/forum/attachments/20170701_202701-jpg.223548/ https://i...

It would also be a good idea to trim down those exposed wires. The exposed section should be as short as possible, to avoid potential shorting risks.

jellybelly wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 21, 2017 4:51 am

I'm not sure it would be achievable to be honest

It's definitely castable. It would just take a crap-load of RTV to do it, so it's really not practical.

Here's a pic of the entire printer: That's kinda weird. I thought they shipped as direct drive printers. I guess modding it to a bowden would lighten the print head and help with ringing, though it introduces its own set of issues. Must be a grass-is-greener thing - people with bowden printers seem...

Meh, use whatever works. There's no 'proper' way to make stuff.