WII U RASPBERRY PI 3 FINISHED

[Ely]

Thanks for sharing the safe shutdown board
I have a quick question about the Res and Cap, which size should i take to fit perfectly ?
0603 like the leds or 0805 ?

Edit: Ok thanks for your update

[Hadeze]

Has anyone tried to use the screen that comes with the Wii U? I just purchased a Wii U in non working order from eBay and getting ready to embark on this process.

[jbenedetto84]

can someone please advise if this is a viable/workable option....

Hi VeteranGamer,

Is this diagram pretty much what you ended up with? I've wired everything exactly like this (except using 2 18650 batteries in parallel) and I get the lightning bolt on battery and when plugged in. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance

[VeteranGamer]

Hi VeteranGamer,

Is this diagram pretty much what you ended up with? I've wired everything exactly like this (except using 2 18650 batteries in parallel) and I get the lightning bolt on battery and when plugged in. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance

that not the wiring setup I have......

I will at some point soon add to the post about the button board how I wired mine up (when I have time)....

I'm using a 3.7V Lipo battery (not 18650)
also if your using the board designed by Helder you will NOT need the Pololu switchboard, as his board deals with the ON/Off





.

[BlueWeaselBreath]

VeteranGamer, I'd be interested to know how you're doing your mounting of the components in there, what you are using as an insulated backing between the components and the LCD, and ESPECIALLY how you've mounted the charging port, since it's one component that NEEDS to be solidly attached. I'm working on my own build here and am currently struggling with how to put everything in and attach it, especially the ports. Thank you!

[Hadeze]

Banjokazooie, thank you for all the information you have posted here. I have a couple of questions.

1. For the LCD back plate you made out of copper clad PCB. Did you order it cut or did you cut it yourself?
2. If you cut it yourself what did you use to cut it with?
3. Can you please post the file of the PCB cutout?

Thanks

[Ely]

Banjokazooie, thank you for all the information you have posted here. I have a couple of questions.

1. For the LCD back plate you made out of copper clad PCB. Did you order it cut or did you cut it yourself?
2. If you cut it yourself what did you use to cut it with?
3. Can you please post the file of the PCB cutout?

Thanks

For the PCB, you can buy one on ebay or aliexpress and you cut it yourself with a dremel using a metal cutting disk.
The template of the pcb is on this thread page 24

What you need > https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1-pcs-FR ... 04013.html

[jbenedetto84]

that not the wiring setup I have......

I will at some point soon add to the post about the button board how I wired mine up (when I have time)....

I'm using a 3.7V Lipo battery (not 18650)
also if your using the board designed by Helder you will NOT need the Pololu switchboard, as his board deals with the ON/Off

I bought a 3.7v lipo (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BTV4J17/) but there's no way the gamepad will close if I put the battery behind the screen and the lcd board and raspberry pi on top of it - the HDMI port prevents the back cover from closing flush. I'm wondering if the mAh is too high which makes the battery too thick. I also used the LCD banjo referenced in his retropie build and not the i5 build. Did you have to expand the back of your gamepad by the original battery cover?

[VeteranGamer]

that not the wiring setup I have......

I will at some point soon add to the post about the button board how I wired mine up (when I have time)....

I'm using a 3.7V Lipo battery (not 18650)
also if your using the board designed by Helder you will NOT need the Pololu switchboard, as his board deals with the ON/Off

I bought a 3.7v lipo (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BTV4J17/) but there's no way the gamepad will close if I put the battery behind the screen and the lcd board and raspberry pi on top of it - the HDMI port prevents the back cover from closing flush. I'm wondering if the mAh is too high which makes the battery too thick. I also used the LCD banjo referenced in his retropie build and not the i5 build. Did you have to expand the back of your gamepad by the original battery cover?

I dont know how you've actually placed all your parts....

this is the battery I have used

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-SD ... 4c4d1eDDqu


and this is how my internals look...





I also modified the screen holder (removing the cross bracing)




allowing for everything to sit a little more deeper in......



.

[jbenedetto84]

that not the wiring setup I have......

I will at some point soon add to the post about the button board how I wired mine up (when I have time)....

I'm using a 3.7V Lipo battery (not 18650)
also if your using the board designed by Helder you will NOT need the Pololu switchboard, as his board deals with the ON/Off

I bought a 3.7v lipo (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BTV4J17/) but there's no way the gamepad will close if I put the battery behind the screen and the lcd board and raspberry pi on top of it - the HDMI port prevents the back cover from closing flush. I'm wondering if the mAh is too high which makes the battery too thick. I also used the LCD banjo referenced in his retropie build and not the i5 build. Did you have to expand the back of your gamepad by the original battery cover?

I dont know how you've actually placed all your parts....

this is the battery I have used

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-SD ... 4c4d1eDDqu


and this is how my internals look...





I also modified the screen holder (removing the cross bracing)




allowing for everything to sit a little more deeper in......



.

Ahh I see. I didn't remove as much of the plastic from the lcd bracket as you, so thats definitely one reason. The other reason - the battery I purchased is 7.5mm thick and the one you linked is only 3.2mm. Thanks so much that should solve this issue (now to wait an eternity for aliexpress to ship the battery). As far as layout goes the picture you posted has been my guide this whole time.

How did you ward off shorting on the back of the lcd? Kapton tape? I'm currently using the cpu fan mesh that banjo used to fill the hole where the camera originally sat.

Also - I purchased 0603 SMD components for the wii u power button board and my soldering skills are ehhh. I went ahead and picked up some 1206 size components (leds, caps and resistors) which are a little bigger but I think will still fit on the pads. I'll keep you posted if it works. This might help others like me that don't have the steadiest of hands.