sudomod

Northguy wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 22, 2019 4:37 am

Do you think that the speaker out is different from the headphone out? Well, there is no other way than ordering one and trying out.

to be fair the audio will most probably be fine coming out of those speaker connections....

by the looks of it...
there is an on board amp, most probably something similar (if not the same) to a PAM8403


its just you'll then have to trying adding the volume wheel after that speaker connection....
and then the headphone socket and then the speakers again....

this is where it might start to sound a little distorted.....

you could try using the on-board headphone....
de soldering it and remounting/positioning it where you want it in your build....
but your still need to come up with a solution to add in a volume wheel....

again....
personally i feel/think....
just ignore the on-board amp and speaker out setup....

and just wire/connect directly from the headphone socket
on-board headphone socket
Volume wheel
Headphone socket (for your build)
Amp
Speakers

the only additional thing is the amp, which is only about the size of a penny....


if it weren't for the volume wheel, you could just use the on-board setup....
its the volume wheel that's gonna give you the distortion in the setup.....

having it after the speakers means that the headphone socket wont be controlled by it

as you gonna be trying to connect something that's already being powered by an amp the +/- speaker outputs (for the two speakers) might also give you a headache

you could scrap the volume wheel, and use that opening for the SD card....
(but that opening was meant for a volume wheel)



.

I'm working on my own version of this project (Currently in the planning phase) and I was wondering how the home button connected to the Teensey 2.0. From what I've seen the board that the home button sits on has an 18 pin FFC and I can't find a FPC to DIP board that has 18 pins (I've found 16 and 20, but not 18). was a different method used than for that of the regular buttons? or is the board in question a special order/custom build?

I was hoping y’all could take a look at my diagram and see if it looks ok or if anything is out of place. Thanks so much!



EDIT 5/4/20: djobbydjobba kindly pointed out the diagram was previously missing the ground wire to the Pi pin 6! I have replaced the original diagram with a corrected one. Thanks, djobbydjobba!!

Hi there. Just a question : Why is your teensy connected to the protection board ? And your diagram lacks a ground to the Pi... otherwise seems good to me

Hello everyone,

i followed every steps on all the pages , thanks for all the help you provided to the entire community !

but i still have a problem.

I'm using the good 6600mAmps flat battery , Helder's retro PSU with the special violet bar, the usb DAC with D-amp 2x3w and of course the teensy.

The problem is that i really often get low voltage detected and i can't play more than 30 minutes before my pi brutally stops to work :S

Maybe anyone have already had the problem ?

Could you tell me how to investigate the problem?

I tried to switch Helder's PSU with powerboost basic that banjo described at the begining of the article , it's not sufficient to maintain it working at all.

I tried another raspberry pi to ensure myself that it wasn't due to the "thickness cure" of it it doesn't seem to be due to this.

I've got a strange feeling 'bout sound but i don't understand why it should cause me problems as i've already tested on USB on another computer and it works.

May someone have a good clue ?

Thanks and good night

mathiouz wrote: ↑

Sun Dec 01, 2019 4:44 pm

Hello everyone,

i followed every steps on all the pages , thanks for all the help you provided to the entire community !

but i still have a problem.

I'm using the good 6600mAmps flat battery , Helder's retro PSU with the special violet bar, the usb DAC with D-amp 2x3w and of course the teensy.

The problem is that i really often get low voltage detected and i can't play more than 30 minutes before my pi brutally stops to work :S

Maybe anyone have already had the problem ?

Could you tell me how to investigate the problem?

I tried to switch Helder's PSU with powerboost basic that banjo described at the begining of the article , it's not sufficient to maintain it working at all.

I tried another raspberry pi to ensure myself that it wasn't due to the "thickness cure" of it it doesn't seem to be due to this.

I've got a strange feeling 'bout sound but i don't understand why it should cause me problems as i've already tested on USB on another computer and it works.

May someone have a good clue ?

Thanks and good night

1. Double check wiring and connected modules for any shorts.
2. Use thick wires for power delivery
3. Avoid using connectors for power wires - solder only
4. Starts with only rpi and lcd connected to see any difference, measure current draw and post results.
5. Power boost basic is more than capable to run rpi+lcd
6. That chinese battery might not have 6600mah and I have seen couple with protection module rated for only 1.5A

Hello
Thanks banjo for the answer

I’ve checked the solders
I already have thick wires ( tuofeng 24 awg I think) but the one veteran gamer used,

The power consumption of the pi itself is 500 mamps
The problem is probably either on the lcd controller board where I probably have a shortcut or on the amplifying system but it works on usb mode on a standard pc without problems.

I’m working on identifying the problem

Thanks for you’r help

Nite guys

Shorten wires as much as possible for power and be sure it's 24AWG or thicker. Do as Banjo said and break it down to just pi and LCD and add more things one at a time till you see what's causing the lightning bolt.

The battery has to be able to supply decent amperage too for the RETRO PSU to properly function. Not all battery claims are true, so you might want to try another battery too.

Thanks Helder for the answer.

I tried many different batteries with the same issue so I was thinking there was a short somewhere.
It seems that it’s on the screen controller.
I’ve ordered another one that should arrive soon.

I’ll give you some feedback as I get it.

Thanks for your help

Did you remove the chip that the 5v mod goes on? sometimes it is necessary to remove it to properly work also look around for tiny solder blobs or bridges.