WII U RASPBERRY PI 3 FINISHED

[AmeriCanSIN]

This is fantastic project for a mere mortal like myself to do. Also, would a DPI LCD screen allow to dim- brighten- turn off the screen with the use of the TV button?

[josephchrzempiec]

Hello i have a couple of Questions. First is the LCD sense you used a 6.5" LCD which is awesome and the original LCD on the wii u is 6.2" LCD did you have to cut the Front housing to accommodate the bigger screen size?

Second question is the Screen Power is 5v? From what I'm reading most screens that size is 12v or higher?

Thank you for the awesome Share and build you made. I'm also making one for my son for Christmas. Sense he is into older game systems like I'm that i build him one and me one. A Mix of the old and new

[banjokazooie]

Hello i have a couple of Questions. First is the LCD sense you used a 6.5" LCD which is awesome and the original LCD on the wii u is 6.2" LCD did you have to cut the Front housing to accommodate the bigger screen size?

Second question is the Screen Power is 5v? From what I'm reading most screens that size is 12v or higher?

Thank you for the awesome Share and build you made. I'm also making one for my son for Christmas. Sense he is into older game systems like I'm that i build him one and me one. A Mix of the old and new

You have to cut only sides on the inside plastic frame that holds display. The LCD is designed to run from 5V so no modification needed.

[josephchrzempiec]

Hello i have a couple of Questions. First is the LCD sense you used a 6.5" LCD which is awesome and the original LCD on the wii u is 6.2" LCD did you have to cut the Front housing to accommodate the bigger screen size?

Second question is the Screen Power is 5v? From what I'm reading most screens that size is 12v or higher?

Thank you for the awesome Share and build you made. I'm also making one for my son for Christmas. Sense he is into older game systems like I'm that i build him one and me one. A Mix of the old and new

You have to cut only sides on the inside plastic frame that holds display. The LCD is designed to run from 5V so no modification needed.

Hello thank you for that information. I just order a 6.5" LCD and controller board. Price wasn't that bad But not good either LOL coming from China will take 3 or 4 weeks to here in the US. Also i notice in your images you have the micro SD card in the bottom of the gamepad. I was thinking of doing the same but still keeping the 2 side pins for charging pins like in the Original Wii u gamepad.

[marco]

awesome!!!! really awesome! I didn't know those HDMI cable in flex format exist; thanks for sharing

[doggerx]

@banjokazooie: Thank you for the link to youtube. Very intresting... ...I saw lipopi script. This unfortunatly i think it's only for the Powerboost 1000c. I found this voltage booster to connect to the batteries that support 3A of output current:
http://www.ebay.it/itm/1PCS-DC-DC-Conve ... Sw0UdXrCvq
So it's more powerfull that the powerbooster 1000c, but don't work with lipopi script... Maybe should work without secure shutdown...

Anyway i'm sorry but I don't understand well how audio circuit work... so i post an image on my doubt

20161108_212944_crop.jpg (63.63 KiB) Viewed 8687 times

So the potentiometer is after or before the wii gamepad headphone jack? And the potentiometer is after of before the ampli?
Another question is: how do you made the usb connection with raspi? Are you soldered cable direct on 4 pin?
Last but not least: How did you connect the board of home, power, tv buttons, and charge led?

@Armstrs: Thank you for the screen price info!

[banjokazooie]

@banjokazooie: Thank you for the link to youtube. Very intresting... ...I saw lipopi script. This unfortunatly i think it's only for the Powerboost 1000c. I found this voltage booster to connect to the batteries that support 3A of output current:
http://www.ebay.it/itm/1PCS-DC-DC-Conve ... Sw0UdXrCvq
So it's more powerfull that the powerbooster 1000c, but don't work with lipopi script... Maybe should work without secure shutdown...

Anyway i'm sorry but I don't understand well how audio circuit work... so i post an image on my doubt
20161108_212944_crop.jpg

So the potentiometer is after or before the wii gamepad headphone jack? And the potentiometer is after of before the ampli?
Another question is: how do you made the usb connection with raspi? Are you soldered cable direct on 4 pin?
Last but not least: How did you connect the board of home, power, tv buttons, and charge led?

@Armstrs: Thank you for the screen price info!

1. Lipopi works with any powerboost. Powerboost 1000 basic can output up to 4A, low battery indicator, boosting from 1.8V and enable function so no brainer here. I'm pretty sure there is no better solution so far.

2. The best position for pot is after usb card and before audio jack so you are not loosing volume regulation. Don't forget to use shielded cables.

3. All connection are soldered directly to board.

4. All buttons are connected to Teensy except power button

5. Led are connected to powerboost and charging circuit.

Wiring diagram
http://imgur.com/a/n9WPy

[doggerx]

Thank you for the clarification on audio and connections... So the Powerboost it's problably the best option... but why did you not use Powerboost 1000C for charge+power instead of TP4056+Poweboost basic?
And did you use only one TP4056 for two batteries in parallel? Is it secure or the charger heat to much?
Another question (sorry if it's too much) did you connect the bottom button bar with the standard flat cable (similar to other buttons, with adapter) or you build a custom pcb?

[ckaystudios]

I ordered all the parts that banjo posted. Some weren't available to ship to the U.S. so i type the part number and pick a seller that would ship here. I bought all the part and im waiting for them to arrive. Im going to try this and ill ask for help if i ran into any problem. Thanks for this project

[uber1337h4xx0r]

Unless I missed it, none of the previous comments seem to bring up the fact that it seems like the raspberry pi was significantly modified - especially with respect to the fact that the USB ports are missing.

Which parts have been removed, if any, and without going into detail, could you tell a relative novice (when it comes to soldering/wicking/etc) a generalized explanation for how to remove said parts?

I can do research and figure out how to remove parts, but I'll have to work off of keywords. Thanks!