Yes plzzzzzzz can u start selling these as well? im trying to design my own in eagle but im just terrible at it and this is what i got so far and im using a separate dc boost pcb to power the led backlight. i much rather buy an adapter from you since it such a nicer and more compact solution
Composite vs DPI
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Re: Composite vs DPI
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Re: Composite vs DPI
Here is what Im working on and the reason in why i wanted need something small like that dpi adapter.
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Re: Composite vs DPI
The problem you'd have is you need to get ~40pins up through the hinge to the adapter if there were one behind the screen! Or if you extended the LCD connector then that is 54pins otherwise slim down a driver board and run composite to itIm2nelson4u wrote: ↑Tue Oct 31, 2017 10:59 amHere is what Im working on and the reason in why i wanted need something small like that dpi adapter.
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Re: Composite vs DPI
I wonder if you could stash the zero and the dpi adapter in behind the screen. Then have a separate board in the bottom half of the SP for power and buttons. This would certainly leave more room for battery!
Getting at the USB connector and SD card slot on the zero would be tricky. Or just run USB down to the bottom board and have a fancy built in USB switch type thing like Kite’s SAIO boards. Y’know, but split in the middle, using less space overall.
Getting at the USB connector and SD card slot on the zero would be tricky. Or just run USB down to the bottom board and have a fancy built in USB switch type thing like Kite’s SAIO boards. Y’know, but split in the middle, using less space overall.
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Re: Composite vs DPI
It would still be a challenge. When I do my SP builds with the composite screen, I have to replace components to get the driver board to under 3.5mm in height. To do that with the RPi0 you would need to remove the micro USB and HDMI port.ThompsonTinkers wrote: ↑Wed Nov 01, 2017 9:00 amI wonder if you could stash the zero and the dpi adapter in behind the screen. Then have a separate board in the bottom half of the SP for power and buttons. This would certainly leave more room for battery!
Getting at the USB connector and SD card slot on the zero would be tricky. Or just run USB down to the bottom board and have a fancy built in USB switch type thing like Kite’s SAIO boards. Y’know, but split in the middle, using less space overall.
Then to get the ~20 pins you would need down through the hinge, you'd likely need to use a fine-pitched ribbon cable to get it to fit, a bundle of wires might be too bulky. And passing USB through a cable like that can be tricky, since you're no longer controlling the impedance of those high speed lines. Would probably be fine, but could be a potential sticking point.
None of these challenges are impossible to overcome, but none of it would be easy!
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Re: Composite vs DPI
I dont have that grey SP anymore but what I originally did to fit a composite screen in there was, I 3D printed a bracket to increase the depth slightly and carefully cut out the hinge and glue it to the new back cover with the bracket. If you look in this pic the back plate is slightly thicker, pretty much the same thickness as the front cover.
A little bondo/epoxy work and a sanding made it look like normal so maybe a zero could fit back there. The only wires thru the hinge would be 6-8 wires, USB hub and power cables.
A little bondo/epoxy work and a sanding made it look like normal so maybe a zero could fit back there. The only wires thru the hinge would be 6-8 wires, USB hub and power cables.
Re: Composite vs DPI
@kite can you publish the eagle file of this pcb if you do not plan on selling it?
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Re: Composite vs DPI
You're right, you would only need less than 10 wires. In my head I was counting buttons going to the GPIO. But if you wanted to make everything USB it could be possible. Unfortunately I don't have the skills to make nice looking case modifications like you did.Im2nelson4u wrote: ↑Wed Nov 01, 2017 11:27 amI dont have that grey SP anymore but what I originally did to fit a composite screen in there was, I 3D printed a bracket to increase the depth slightly and carefully cut out the hinge and glue it to the new back cover with the bracket. If you look in this pic the back plate is slightly thicker, pretty much the same thickness as the front cover.
A little bondo/epoxy work and a sanding made it look like normal so maybe a zero could fit back there. The only wires thru the hinge would be 6-8 wires, USB hub and power cables.
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Re: Composite vs DPI
Lol i build alot of gundam models so putty work and sanding is not too bad. I wish i was able to design pcbs like you guys. I just used a forstner bit to drill out a large hole where the buttons are on the sp shell and 3D printed something to add X Y buttons using 3ds buttons.
I was reading through your SP aio board and was wondering if you knew the model number of the 3.2in lcd? All i know is its 40 pin and 16bit color, perhaps u could get it to run in dpi mode lol. Also how far are you alomg with the aio board?
I was reading through your SP aio board and was wondering if you knew the model number of the 3.2in lcd? All i know is its 40 pin and 16bit color, perhaps u could get it to run in dpi mode lol. Also how far are you alomg with the aio board?
Re: Composite vs DPI
hi everyone I have bought the gearbest screen for my first gbz build , and showing this post
I have realized that the dpi screens are better , so I dont if i shoudl buy a dpi coverter
(but i dont know if the quality is worst)orbuy another dpi screen.
What would you recommend me?
I have realized that the dpi screens are better , so I dont if i shoudl buy a dpi coverter
(but i dont know if the quality is worst)orbuy another dpi screen.
What would you recommend me?
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