GCode for 3D Printed Parts

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PIXeL_92
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GCode for 3D Printed Parts

Post by PIXeL_92 » Mon Aug 07, 2017 6:14 am

Hi All,

I was wondering if anyone could send me the Gcode they are using to print the parts for the MintyPi, I am using Cura and I have tried a few different settings but I never get the screw holes 100%. My machine is a Wanhao i3 and I think that is a clone of RepRap printer.

Cheers
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Re: GCode for 3D Printed Parts

Post by Jamesjs » Mon Aug 07, 2017 5:08 pm

Hello, I think I might be able to help. I have a Monoprice maker select V2 which is a clone of the Wanhao i3. I would just need to know some settings. Do you use pla, or abs? Do you have a heated build plate? What mm is the nozzle? What is the bed shape? What is the nozzle diameter?

PIXeL_92
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Re: GCode for 3D Printed Parts

Post by PIXeL_92 » Tue Aug 08, 2017 4:58 am

Jamesjs wrote:
Mon Aug 07, 2017 5:08 pm
Hello, I think I might be able to help. I have a Monoprice maker select V2 which is a clone of the Wanhao i3. I would just need to know some settings. Do you use pla, or abs? Do you have a heated build plate? What mm is the nozzle? What is the bed shape? What is the nozzle diameter?
Hey man,

Cheers what slicer do you use ?

Material - PLA
Heated Bed - 60c
Nozzle - 0.4mm
Bed - Square
Not sure what the diameter would be for the nozzle as I have never had to input it.

All the parts should fit onto my build plate if you keep everything as close to the center as possible.

Thanks
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Re: GCode for 3D Printed Parts

Post by snoek09 » Tue Aug 08, 2017 10:47 am

Did you see the recommended printing settings from the guide?
http://www.sudomod.com/mintypi-custom-parts-guide/

- PLA works fine for the faceplate, as well as the bezel. I’d recommend something stronger and less-brittle for the screen back, the base, and the hinge. I use a PC/PBT blend from Push Plastic, but you could probably get away with ABS.

- Printing the faceplate is the hardest part. You want the first layer to be nice and thin, and the extrusion width set to something like 125%. The goal is to get all the lines to mush together as much as possible so it’s nice and smooth (surfaces like buildtak might not do so well here). I use Simplfy3D for slicing, and I have two printing process set up: for the first two layers, I have it set to print at .22mm layer height. For the rest of the layers I have it set to .24. This helps the mintyPi logo to come out clean.

- You may have to play with extrusion multipliers and widths a bit to get things like the hinge to come out with the correct tolerances.

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Re: GCode for 3D Printed Parts

Post by wermy » Tue Aug 08, 2017 6:48 pm

I wouldn't recommend using someone else's gcode... There could be variations in it that could make it not work well on your printer, or even break something.

As snoek09 pointed out I posted some tips for getting it to print right. What issues are you having exactly? Screw holes too loose or tight?
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Re: GCode for 3D Printed Parts

Post by PIXeL_92 » Wed Aug 09, 2017 1:52 am

snoek09 wrote:
Tue Aug 08, 2017 10:47 am
Did you see the recommended printing settings from the guide?
http://www.sudomod.com/mintypi-custom-parts-guide/

- PLA works fine for the faceplate, as well as the bezel. I’d recommend something stronger and less-brittle for the screen back, the base, and the hinge. I use a PC/PBT blend from Push Plastic, but you could probably get away with ABS.

- Printing the faceplate is the hardest part. You want the first layer to be nice and thin, and the extrusion width set to something like 125%. The goal is to get all the lines to mush together as much as possible so it’s nice and smooth (surfaces like buildtak might not do so well here). I use Simplfy3D for slicing, and I have two printing process set up: for the first two layers, I have it set to print at .22mm layer height. For the rest of the layers I have it set to .24. This helps the mintyPi logo to come out clean.

- You may have to play with extrusion multipliers and widths a bit to get things like the hinge to come out with the correct tolerances.
So far I have made two and they have all been PLA and so far have been fine, within tolerance and no warping, just issues with the material going all the way to the screw hole in some areas on the screen mount.

I print on a glass bed so the surfaces are smooth, I haven't had issues printing these parts yet, I didn't use the recommended settings as it caused a couple issues however making changes to suit my printer helped and they print spot on with a nice clear logo.

All the other screw holes on the base plate etc print fine just the screen mount, I did have this issue with hoolys bracket and he sent me his G-Code as he was using Simplify 3D and a clone of my printer and they now come out spot on.

I think I will have to look into getting Simplify3D and stop using Wanhao's version of Cura

Thanks
wermy wrote:
Tue Aug 08, 2017 6:48 pm
I wouldn't recommend using someone else's gcode... There could be variations in it that could make it not work well on your printer, or even break something.

As snoek09 pointed out I posted some tips for getting it to print right. What issues are you having exactly? Screw holes too loose or tight?
I did follow the tips etc, but found some of them didn't give me a good result on the finish or caused over extrusion in some areas.

All parts print fine apart from the screen back, the whole part is fine apart from the screw holes. You have the circle that the screw goes into, the material around it doesn't go all the way to the edge of the circle in some areas meaning that the screw holes aren't circular. Sometimes screws fit and have enough material to grab onto others they are that deformed they are to loose or the material isn't there for it to grab onto.

Cheers
Needs parts for your Gameboy Zero or even just normal Gamboy mods, head over to http://www.deadpanrobot.co.uk/ and use the discount code RGREPAIRS for a 10% discount code. Loads of great products at affordable prices.

Instagram - http://instagram.com/robsgamerepairs

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