Collective V3 issues and how to fix them [If received BEFORE April 2019]

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Collective V3 issues and how to fix them [If received BEFORE April 2019]

Post by LilTrublMakr » Wed Mar 27, 2019 7:42 pm

This is only for the people that were able to get a kit before March 25, 2018. If you get one after that date, all of these fixes will be applied already.

Disclaimer: If you choose to make these fixes yourself, I am not to be held responsible for any damages you make. If you do not feel comfortable making these fixes, you have the option to send the parts (I would recommend sending everything so we can test it all) to Helder or myself and we will make sure everything is in working order. If you do ship it to one of us, PLEASE use a protective box (Like the one the kit came in) to mail it. Please do not use a padded envelope! Package carriers do not care about your stuff and will throw things around. A padded envelope will not protect your stuff as well as a box. If you want to send Helder or myself something to be fixed, please contact us via PM on here, on Discord, or you can email Helder and we will give you the info you need to send your stuff to us.

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Screen Issues: IF YOU GOT YOUR KIT BEFORE APRIL 2019!

Instagram Posts: Post 1, Post 2.

If your screen is not showing anything, showing up white, or has dark spots on the screen, you need to reflow the ribbon cable.

Cause: The PCB maker that Helder used didn't set up their machines correctly and the ribbon cable of the screen is not making full contact with the pads on the screen PCB. This is causing dark spots on the bottom of the screen and possibly even the screen not working at all.

Fix: It is actually pretty easy to fix this issue, All you need to do is very carefully separate the screen from the board while leaving the ribbon cable attached, and reflow the ribbon with flux. It would be easiest to get a flux pen if you do not have one already. Just add a little bit of flux and run your tip over each of the ribbon connections.

My recommendations are as follows:
1. Use something thin like a guitar pick to separate the screen from the PCB. TAKE YOUR TIME! Use the pick on the 3 sides that do not have the ribbon.
2. Use lots of flux. Flux is your friend.
3. Put some fresh solder on the tip of your iron every couple of pins. You don't need much.
4. Work from the pad of the PCB and SLOWLY work your way up to the pin of the ribbon cable.
5. TAKE YOUR TIME!

If you need a video tutorial, there is one on the 3rd slide of this Instagram post.

If you do not feel comfortable fixing any of these issues, get in touch with Helder or myself and send the parts to one of us and we will fix the problem(s).

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Power Issues: IF YOU GOT YOUR KIT BEFORE APRIL 2019!

Instagram Post: https://www.instagram.com/p/BvFTK6OFfga/

If your screen is starting normally and then just goes white while the sound is still working. There may be other symptoms that I may not know of. If you plug the microUSB cable directly in to the pi, it should start up as normal. (This is also assuming that you have flashed the MintyPi image and have the microSD card plugged in to the pi)

Cause: The dualfet chip that has been put on the power boards is the wrong chip. It is cutting out when the battery reaches 4.3-4v instead of the voltage that we want it to cut off at.

Fix: This is a tricky fix and not for someone with minimal soldering skills. If you do not have any SMD work under your belt, I would highly suggest you send the power board to either Helder or myself or wait for Helder to send out fixed power boards. If you would like to fix it yourself or have Helder or I fix it for you, send one of us a PM in here or in Discord and one of us will send you info to have it taken care of.

I can't stress this enough: If you do not feel comfortable doing this, PLEASE SEND IT TO ONE OF US TO FIX IT FOR YOU OR WAIT FOR THE FIXED BOARD TO BE SHIPPED TO YOU! We will not be responsible if you mess the board up beyond repair.

If you would like to tackle this fix yourself, I admire you! Get in contact with Helder on here, discord, or by email and tell him that you would like a replacement dualfet chip. When you get it, you need to remove the old one. The dualfet is the one labeled "U2" on the power PCB close to the wire harness connector. It is best to use a hot air rework station for something like this but is doable by iron as well. I very carefully cut the leads of one side of the dualfet leads with flush cutters and lifted it just enough to know that the 4 pins are cut. Then I use my hot air station to heat up the other side and tweezers to lift it off the PCB. If you are using an iron, you can either try to heat all the pins at once, or use a glob of solder that is bridging all 4 pins to remove the dualfet. Just be sure you use something like solder wick to remove the extra solder. Take your iron and flick away the 4 legs from the other side.

If you are using an iron for the whole process, remove the solder on the pads using solder wick. Place a little bit of solder on one of the pads. Place the dualfet in its proper position. MAKE SURE THAT THE DOT ON THE DUALFET IS CORRECTLY ORIENTED! It should be closest to R6 above the wire harness connector. Click on the spoiler for an image.
SpoilerShow
Image
I use tweezers to hold the chip in place and then secure it using the iron. Then solder the rest of the pins. Check with a multimeter to see if you have any bridging. TAKE YOUR TIME WHILE DOING THIS!

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The charging LED does not work: IF YOU GOT YOUR KIT BEFORE APRIL 2019!

Instagram Post: post 1, post 2.

Cause: The PCB fabricators put the wrong LED on the board.

Fix: You need to take a wire (Helder used magnet wire; I used 30 gauge hookup wire) and solder it to pin 2 of the chip next to the LED and to the pin right next to the USB-C port like shown in the picture in post 1. You also need to remove the resistor labeled "R2" to avoid burning out your TX GPIO pin. You can see a video of how to do that here.

And of course, if you do not feel comfortable making this fix, please contact either Helder or myself for information on how to send it to one of us to fix it for you.
Last edited by LilTrublMakr on Wed May 08, 2019 9:39 am, edited 5 times in total.

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Re: Collective V3 issues and how to fix them

Post by GoldenPSP » Wed Mar 27, 2019 9:24 pm

thanks for the heads up. Just out of curiosity on the power issue. On the instagram post Helder said he would be shipping out fixed boards to the people who's shipped boards were incorrect. However you are mentioning reaching out to Helder about getting it fixed. I'm just asking for clarification so I'm not waiting expecting a replacement board when I should be reaching out to get it fixed.

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Re: Collective V3 issues and how to fix them

Post by Helder » Thu Mar 28, 2019 1:16 am

The people who can't do it or don't want to wait have been sending me their boards to fix or ask for the chip to fix it themselves. I'm making a list of people who have done this so I know who has not received a fixed board and I'll send them the new ones once they arrive.
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Re: Collective V3 issues and how to fix them

Post by LilTrublMakr » Thu Mar 28, 2019 5:06 am

GoldenPSP wrote:
Wed Mar 27, 2019 9:24 pm
thanks for the heads up. Just out of curiosity on the power issue. On the instagram post Helder said he would be shipping out fixed boards to the people who's shipped boards were incorrect. However you are mentioning reaching out to Helder about getting it fixed. I'm just asking for clarification so I'm not waiting expecting a replacement board when I should be reaching out to get it fixed.
Thanks, I added the clarification to the main post.

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Re: Collective V3 issues and how to fix them

Post by anoldwiseman » Thu Mar 28, 2019 1:39 pm

So Just to be clear you need to orientate the new chip properly on the board or does it not matter

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Re: Collective V3 issues and how to fix them

Post by LilTrublMakr » Thu Mar 28, 2019 1:57 pm

Yes, it needs to be oriented a certain way. You should see a dot in one of the corners. It will be on the bottom row with "L72A". That dot needs to be closest to "R6".

For the visual people:
Image

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Re: Collective V3 issues and how to fix them

Post by Helder » Thu Apr 11, 2019 12:18 pm

No power from Battery? Check continuity for 5V as shown here:
Image



Audio not working? Then you need to fix the 5V point mentioned above and possibly reflow the power input for the audio chip U2 on controller PCB AND BE SURE YOU HAVE CONTINUITY ON DIN, BCLK, LCLK TEST POINTS!:
Image




Need to check power is going to the proper places with USB connected on the powerboard or just from battery power? check here:
Image
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Re: Collective V3 issues and how to fix them

Post by gosfreyjr » Thu Apr 11, 2019 6:25 pm

I unable to get my minty V3 to power up using the power board. Everything works find if power applied directly to raspberry pi. I did the continuity check on the controller and power pcbs and they all check out fine except battery + to FB3. Is the power board led suppose to turn on when plugged in? I am unable to get 5v using the usb 5v test points you indicated. I leave it charging overnight but the battery is does not charge. I have already sent you by power board and screen for repair. So all the required patches have been done to the boards.
I will include pictures of my boards if it helps.

Any help will be greatly appreciated,

Gosfrey :D :D
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Re: Collective V3 issues and how to fix them

Post by Helder » Thu Apr 11, 2019 6:33 pm

When you plug in the USB it should light up the LED and I test every single board before I ship it since I was hand repairing them. So this tell me that you have a bad cable maybe? or something is shorting to GND. Remove the battery and see if the LED lights up and FB3 will not have any power if the board can't be powered by the battery so it will not have continuity.

Why does R2 look bridged in that photo? it needs to be nothing touching between the 2 pads.
My Sale Threads:

Retro PSU, 3.5A output!


Chat with me and other members


Don't contact me about obtaining my board files (as you will not get them). Don't contact me about any of my boards if they are sold out, they will be restocked as soon as I can get them.


Don't support thieves like ckliang who copied my AIO to resell and is now cloning the mintyPi, support the original creators and not the thieves!

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Re: Collective V3 issues and how to fix them

Post by gosfreyjr » Thu Apr 11, 2019 6:51 pm

Helder wrote:
Thu Apr 11, 2019 6:33 pm
When you plug in the USB it should light up the LED and I test every single board before I ship it since I was hand repairing them. So this tell me that you have a bad cable maybe? or something is shorting to GND. Remove the battery and see if the LED lights up and FB3 will not have any power if the board can't be powered by the battery so it will not have continuity.

Why does R2 look bridged in that photo? it needs to be nothing touching between the 2 pads.
:D :D ;) No worries I know you test everything. I am just trying to solve a problem. I removed the battery, but the led did not light up. I even removed the black cable harness, but the led does not turn on. I know the led works since it turns on when I do a continuity test.

Thanks

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