[For Sale] Tactile ShoulderBracket

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erik_gee
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[For Sale] Tactile ShoulderBracket

Post by erik_gee » Wed Jul 05, 2017 10:50 pm

Kubino is now also offering button hole cuts for this bracket, as well as my DMG bracket. You can purchase his pre-cut cases here viewtopic.php?f=38&t=3309
prices:
bracket full set(bracket,buttons,caps,screws,drill guide) - 15$ USD plus shipping + 3$ USD shipping

bracket stand-alone(only plastic bracket, no buttons) - 11$ + 3$ USD shipping

PLEASE PM ME THE COLOR BUTTONS YOU WANT, OR ADD A NOTE AT END OF PURCHASE, OR EMAIL, AFTER YOU HAVE PURCHASED. PAYPAL NO LONGER LETS YOU WRITE A MESSAGE TO SELLER. I CAN NOT SHIP UNTIL I KNOW WHAT COLOR YOU WANT


Orders are now made through my website. Purchases are still made through paypal. Purchase link below:
http://glitchdgaming.com/index.php/prod ... r-buttons/


Hey everyone! For sale I have some custom brackets that I designed. They will allow you to use the larger tactile caps for your shoulder buttons, by placing them the correct distance away from the case (so that the lip of the button is on the inside of the case and not exposed). The bracket also allows you to utilize the screw posts locates just above the battery compartment, so that it can be attached to the gameboy without the use of any glue! Woooo!. These buttons are MUCH more comfortable than the standard tactile switch, as the button caps are 12mm wide instead of a little peg that digs into your finger :lol: It also allows you to place the buttons in a much more convenient location, freeing up the screw holes that the small tactile switches are usually mounted in. This mean you can use HoolyHoos bracket to utilize the center screw holes for the shell. With the bracket being screwed down, rather than glued, your project will look much cleaner without the globs of glue you would normally need for this. It is also much more secure , as it is screwed in instead of glued, as glue can say with heat,pressure, and time, causing the buttons to shift. It is a very quick solution. After drilling the holes, the buttons take seconds to slip into the bracket and screw in. They also come in a variety of colors to fit your theme(red,blue,black,white,green,yellow,grey(grey no longer available)).



The bracket works with Kite's SAIO board, as a notch has been removed on one side to accommodate the wire harness on his daughter board (the one with the volume wheel). The bracket was also designed to sit the exact distance above the mounting posts, so that you no longer have to solder on Kite's spacer boards. If you have already soldered them on, then you will have to desolder them as it will not fit if the spacer boards are attached. Simply lay the daughter board on top of the bracket and you are good to go. You may want to get a longer screw than the screws i provide if you using kite's board, as the daughter board will raise the screw slightly. Or use some extra glue to help support it.fair warning: A cart reader can not be used with this bracket as it takes up the same space.

If you have any questions please feel free to ask, thank you


Installation GuideShow


Drilling Holes:
Edit: I created a hole guide to help you drill the pilot hole. It will now be included with every order. If you would like download it and print it yourself, it can be found using the following link https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2466985. All the info regarding drilling the hole can now be disregarded in the following section but I will leave it here anyways. Now, simply pop this guide into one side, with the flat end against the outside wall, the chamfered edge towards the center, and the notch facing upwards. Then, flip it over and use it on the other side, making sure to keep the same orientation of flat side against the outside wall, and notch on top. Again, the information below is now outdated. The hole should be about 11.5mm for a tight fit , or 12mm for a loose fit. 12mm is easier as it is a whole number. I would suggest starting at a lower diameter, and if it doesnt fit, slowly move up to ensure a nice fit.


outdated:What i like to do is use a small drill bit, commonly used to clear clogged nozzles on 3d printers (shown in the picture below). I use a .8mm bit and have had near perfect holes every time. I place the bracket on the screw posts and then place the bit inside the hole guide. Then, I turn the gameboy on its side and peer through the cartridge opening to align the bit horizontally at the center of the button slots. I drill my first hole by hand with this smaller bit, and then check the outside to see if the placement was correct. You want your center hole to be placed on the raised ridge above the center slot on the back design, as shown in the picture below. Make sure not to go below this raised ridge, as any lower and the button cap rim will hit the battery compartment wall and will need to be modified. I find if the center hole is in the center of this raised ridge, it tends to work very well. If you are going to make a mistake, aim on drilling the center hole too high instead of too low, so that you do not need to cut into the battery compartment wall or shave the cap rim. The buttons can be easily shifted vertically within the bracket.

After drilling your pilot hole, turn the case over and check the outside to see if the hole is in the correct position. If it isnt, then use the small bit to create a new pilot hole, but from the front this time so that it is easier to find the correct spot, using the previous hole as a horizontal guide.

The buttons can be moved easily vertically, but is much less forgiving horizontally. Be careful when drilling the hole on the horizontal axis. I measured the distance from the beginning of the ridges from the center, to the pilot hole to be about 10.3mm. This doesnt have to be exact but please remember the buttons cant move sideways very much inside the bracket. As i said before, when drilling the first hole, look through the empty cartridge slot to help find the center of the button slot. In the picture below, my right hole was too far towards the center and didnt look correct to me, so i made a new one a little further out. This is why i prefer using these small bits, makes it super easy to correct any mistake early on.

Image

Once the pilot holes are ready, you cant start drilling the real thing. I prefer to use a step drill bit, but you can use a series of enlarging bits as well. The button cap shafts are roughly 11.5mm, so will require a 12mm hole. This is just slightly larger than the 11mm hole required by the normal dmg buttons. You can drill the 12mm hole directly or, what i prefer, drill the 11mm hole as if you were installing a standard dmg button, and the use an exacto knife or blade to slowly open the diameter. Check to see if the button cap fits in every few go arounds and keep repeating until the button fits in snuggily and has enough space to activate the tactile switch. I prefer this method as it leaves less of a gap around the button. If you want to do it this way, the whole will be roughly 11.5-11.6mm.
A 12mm hole will leave a small gap, but is easier to drill a whole number. A perfect fit will require a 11.5- 11.6 mm hole.


Inserting Buttons:
To insert the buttons, you must bend the pins on one side straight (the side does not matter). Carefully bend both pins, as the pins can snap and break. Bend them slowly and individually, as bending both pins at once can cause unequal pressure and might snap one of the pins. Once the pins are flat, slide the button into the button slot on the bracket. Depending on variances in prints and between buttons, some buttons may require a little extra push to slide into the slot. If force is required, be sure that the pins dont get caught while you push the buttons in, as they can break. Once the button is inserted, bend the 2 pins back up to their original position carefully. Repeat for the other button. Again, the pins are delicate so be extremely cautious when bending.

Inserting Bracket:
To place the bracket inside, line up the screw posts with the screw holes on the bracket, and insert downward. If you push down one side too quick, it will get stuck, as the screw holes fit very snug. If this happens, just simply pop it back up and try again. The cut-out arch should be oriented to the battery compartment door tab. If your holes are drilled correctly, you should only have to slightly shift your buttons for them to slip in. If your hole sits too low, you may notice the button cap's lip hit the battery compartment wall. You can shave this lip down, as it is not visible from the outside. Also, be sure that your drilled hole does not have any debris or bumps, as it can prevent the button from clicking. Make sure the area around the hole is clear of any obstruction.

Place the bracket on, with buttons poking through the holes, and now test to see if they click. Simply hold the bracket on the screw posts with your thumbs and click the buttons on the back with your index fingers. If they dont click, check the interior holes again. Clear any obstruction around the drilled holes that may be preventing the movement of the button( bumps, pieces of plastic point up, etc.). Clean up the hole, make sure the lip doesnt hit the wall, try again. If you drilled your hole too low on accident, its possible the lip is hitting the battery compartment wall. Simply shave the lip off of the button at that location. Once everything is working fine, continue to screw in the bracket with the provided screws. The bracket and holes should create enough pressure to hold the buttons in place, but you may add a dab of glue between the button base and bracket if you wish, although it is unnecessary. You can also glue or epoxy the bracket itself to the case if you are concerned about the longevity of the screws and want to secure it better and reduce stress. I have been using it for a month and has been working fine, but it doesnt hurt if you want to take the precaution

Also, this applies to anything that is screwed down in general, but make sure not to over tighten your screws. This can cause the screw post to strip and become useless. I would suggest screwing in the screw until its almost fully inserted, and then slowly screw it in more until it is fully inserted and do not screw anymore pass this. As a stationary turning screw is a sure fire way to strip the post.

Finishing Up
Now all you have to do is solder the wires to the pins and connect them to whatever board you are using for controls. If you are unfamiliar with switches, you want to solder your signal and ground pins to diagonal pins. Looking at the bracket in the normal position, you would want to connect one wire to either the top left pin and the other wire to the bottom right, or connect one wire to the top right pin and the other to the bottom left. More info can be found about tactile switches online if you need more assistance.

And you are now done!
Disclaimer: I test every part before sending. I have a precut case I use specifically for testing and I can guarantee that as long as your holes are drilled correctly, your parts will work. I AM ONLY RESPONSIBLE FOR THE PARTS I PROVIDE. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR INCORRECTLY DRILLED HOLES. OR PINS THAT YOU BREAK IN THE PROCESS. THAT IS OUT OF MY CONTROL

Original PostShow

Hello everyone!

I created a 3d printed bracket that holds 12x12x7.3 tactile buttons with caps at the appropriate distance and is secured with screws. Because of the caps, they can not simply be placed down and glued like a normal switch, as you have to account for the cap.

The advantage is that these are MUCH more comfortable then slipping the standard tactile switches in the back, as the button caps are larger than the small pegs on the standard tactile switches. You can also now use the center screw holes to hold the shell together, as the old tactile switches were often used in the screw post hole (brackets such as HoolyHoo's allow usage of the center screw hole). Also, caps come in a variety of colors so you can make the project pop and look that much better. The bracket is screwed in to the unused screw posts near the battery compartment so no glue is necessary, making your project secure and clean looking(not a bunch of glue globs everywhere). It also has guide holes to help drill your button holes.

I originally made it for myself to make my projects go by a little quicker, but i want to gauge interest to see if there are people out there who would consider this useful. I can sell just the bracket or sell it as a set (bracket, buttons,caps,screws). Let me know below if you are interested! If a fair amount of people are, ill start cranking them out on the printer!

Thank for your time!

PicturesShow

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Last edited by erik_gee on Mon Jul 02, 2018 4:55 pm, edited 53 times in total.
Bunch of different shoulder button kits Sales Thread:https://sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php ... 192#p63192

AIO board for DMG Sales Thread:
https://sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=6431

6 Button Common Ground Board Sales Thread: https://sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=4811

Dukana
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Re: [Gauging Interest] L and R button Bracket

Post by Dukana » Thu Jul 06, 2017 12:10 am

If you made a kit that included the bracket, screws, switches and caps, I'd be in for sure! For around $15-20? Absolutely.

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Re: [Gauging Interest] L and R button Bracket

Post by erik_gee » Thu Jul 06, 2017 12:16 am

Dukana wrote:
Thu Jul 06, 2017 12:10 am
If you made a kit that included the bracket, screws, switches and caps, I'd be in for sure! For around $15-20? Absolutely.
I didnt think about having it as a set but thats a good idea! As i stated, the buttons and caps are readily available but of course, if you were to get them yourself, you would have to wait like a month from china haha If i sell as a set, you would have all the parts you need in a matter of days, rather than a month. That is definitely something i can do. Out of curiosity, would you still consider purchasing if it was just the bracket?
Bunch of different shoulder button kits Sales Thread:https://sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php ... 192#p63192

AIO board for DMG Sales Thread:
https://sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=6431

6 Button Common Ground Board Sales Thread: https://sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=4811

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Re: [Gauging Interest] L and R button Bracket

Post by Dukana » Thu Jul 06, 2017 1:00 am

erik_gee wrote:
Thu Jul 06, 2017 12:16 am
Dukana wrote:
Thu Jul 06, 2017 12:10 am
If you made a kit that included the bracket, screws, switches and caps, I'd be in for sure! For around $15-20? Absolutely.
I didnt think about having it as a set but thats a good idea! As i stated, the buttons and caps are readily available but of course, if you were to get them yourself, you would have to wait like a month from china haha If i sell as a set, you would have all the parts you need in a matter of days, rather than a month. That is definitely something i can do. Out of curiosity, would you still consider purchasing if it was just the bracket?
Yeah, I'd consider it. Heck, I buy just about one of anything people put up here! Got two builds going and parting out a third (not including the MintyPi, which I should have built next weekend!!) I love this community and try to support the creators whenever possible.

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Re: [Gauging Interest] L and R button Bracket

Post by jermzz » Thu Jul 06, 2017 1:08 am

Those caps can be had on Amazon I think. Obviously, although you have the presence of the cartridge, there is no room for a reader with your bracket. But it looks great, and I'd pay a few bucks for one just to support you and try it out if nothing else. I feel it may be a semi hard sell since most who do 3d modeling stuff give the files away for free. But I totally understand that you should be compensated for your hard work. Let us know when it's time where your price point is. I know bulk 3d printing isn't cheap, maybe you already have / could look into doing a mold and mass producing that way.

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Re: [Gauging Interest] L and R button Bracket

Post by erik_gee » Thu Jul 06, 2017 1:13 am

Dukana wrote:
Thu Jul 06, 2017 1:00 am
erik_gee wrote:
Thu Jul 06, 2017 12:16 am
Dukana wrote:
Thu Jul 06, 2017 12:10 am
If you made a kit that included the bracket, screws, switches and caps, I'd be in for sure! For around $15-20? Absolutely.
I didnt think about having it as a set but thats a good idea! As i stated, the buttons and caps are readily available but of course, if you were to get them yourself, you would have to wait like a month from china haha If i sell as a set, you would have all the parts you need in a matter of days, rather than a month. That is definitely something i can do. Out of curiosity, would you still consider purchasing if it was just the bracket?
Yeah, I'd consider it. Heck, I buy just about one of anything people put up here! Got two builds going and parting out a third (not including the MintyPi, which I should have built next weekend!!) I love this community and try to support the creators whenever possible.

Thank you very much! I can probably put a few sets together with the stock i have on hand right now, for around the 15$-20$ range. But i think i will wait a bit to see other's thoughts on it before finalizing anything. Thank you very much for your input!
Bunch of different shoulder button kits Sales Thread:https://sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php ... 192#p63192

AIO board for DMG Sales Thread:
https://sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=6431

6 Button Common Ground Board Sales Thread: https://sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=4811

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Re: [Gauging Interest] L and R button Bracket

Post by Eccho » Thu Jul 06, 2017 1:56 am

I am very interested. Hot glue on the buttons is suboptimal with longer play times. The idea of a set is ideal of course. Thanks for your contribution!

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Re: [Gauging Interest] L and R button Bracket

Post by Flosion » Thu Jul 06, 2017 5:43 am

Whether it's a kit or not, I'll buy one!

Just let me know when they're available. :)

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Re: [Gauging Interest] L and R button Bracket

Post by burni » Thu Jul 06, 2017 7:22 am

I completely new to this but am looking to start a GBZ build as soon as my newly ordered SAIO board arrives. I'd buy either the bracket or (preferably) the kit, as I like the way this looks more than the other options I've seen on the forum. It looks like it would be a lot more comfortable.

Please let me know if you decide to sell the kit or bracket. More than happy to pay for quality solutions like this. Great work!

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Re: [Gauging Interest] L and R button Bracket

Post by erik_gee » Thu Jul 06, 2017 11:41 am

jermzz wrote:
Thu Jul 06, 2017 1:08 am
Those caps can be had on Amazon I think. Obviously, although you have the presence of the cartridge, there is no room for a reader with your bracket. But it looks great, and I'd pay a few bucks for one just to support you and try it out if nothing else. I feel it may be a semi hard sell since most who do 3d modeling stuff give the files away for free. But I totally understand that you should be compensated for your hard work. Let us know when it's time where your price point is. I know bulk 3d printing isn't cheap, maybe you already have / could look into doing a mold and mass producing that way.

Yes, unfortunately a cartridge reader wouldn't really have room with the back buttons. Personally i usually build my Gameboy with larger back buttons over the card reader as the reader takes less priority for me. My first build I didn't even have the card accessible, just ssh into it haha and actually , I'm modeling something up real soon for sd cards.

And yeah, most people release the models alongside selling the finished product which I always appreciate. And I wouldn't mind for those who have their own printers. My problem is with the other people who then take their models and try to turn around and sell themselves, which to me, is such a spit in the face. Not just the 3d parts, but the PCB files as well. All those who took helder's board files and turned around to produce their own for sale. Not even changing a single thing. Grinds my gears.
Bunch of different shoulder button kits Sales Thread:https://sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php ... 192#p63192

AIO board for DMG Sales Thread:
https://sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=6431

6 Button Common Ground Board Sales Thread: https://sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=4811

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