[For Sale] Kite's Shoulder Board Bracket (Free STL)
Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 1:41 am
Edit: STL's updated. Orientation fixed, button holes widened to fit better, bracket slimmed to fit inside case better, and caps changed to oval shape to provide more surface area for kite's backboard to rest on. Also, added guides (woops forgot to add that first time)
STL files provided below, along with printer settings.
Kite Bracket Set: $10 + $3 shipping
Hello everyone! I have spoken with Kite about making a shoulder bracket for his new AIO. Below I have the STL file for those who own 3d printers. I will also be selling them for those who do not own a printer and need printing services.
They are based on my DMG shoulder bracket, with some slight alterations for Kite's board. Please note that Kite made his board and I made the bracket separately. As such, there might be some slight inconsistencies between the two items, but they should still function normally. If you print them and notice issues, please contact me so that I can fix any issues.
The set will include a slide in guide hole for drilling. Kite's board has its own guide hole, but as stated before, there may be some slight inconsistencies. So please, use the drill guide provided by myself, and not the drill guide on his board.
It installs the same way as my other bracket. For more details on installing, you can check out that thread but i will give a quick summary here
Cut conductive pads. Snip off surround lip of conductive pad(IMPORTANT! Leaving the lip raises the pad further and creates more sag). Place conductive pad guide hole onto the bracket peg. Place board onto the back, and then insert a screw through the center hole. Afterwards, place the left and right brackets around the screw post, as shown in the pictures. Finally, place the screw post caps on top, to push the left and right brackets down and screw the caps in.
do not solder kite's spacer boards to the HDMI board. My printed cap replaces his spacer board. Should actually be better than his spacer boards as it is slightly lower.
In order to get the wells lower on the gameboy shell, I had to raise the height of the bracket to fit over the battery bay lip. Because of this the buttons will sag. Please place a spacer in your buttons. Easiest thing to do is take a hole punch to your plastic screen protector, and place that on the inside of your buttons. This way the button will not sag and you will have a much better response. This step is basically necessary, as the sag is quite annoying
The caps are made to be the proper length so that the hdmi/usb board can rest on top without soldering the spacer board. I noticed the soldered boards tend to be a little too high, but i have tested these keeps to be a better height. When inserted, they sit 1.6mm above the screw post, about .4mm shorter than bother spacer boards soldered and it seems to be a good fit.
Print 1 of each, except for the cap. Print 2 caps.
Suggester settings:
infill: 50% or more
Walls: 2
support: Only for KiteBracket, no others.
STL files provided below, along with printer settings.
Kite Bracket Set: $10 + $3 shipping
picturesShow
They are based on my DMG shoulder bracket, with some slight alterations for Kite's board. Please note that Kite made his board and I made the bracket separately. As such, there might be some slight inconsistencies between the two items, but they should still function normally. If you print them and notice issues, please contact me so that I can fix any issues.
The set will include a slide in guide hole for drilling. Kite's board has its own guide hole, but as stated before, there may be some slight inconsistencies. So please, use the drill guide provided by myself, and not the drill guide on his board.
It installs the same way as my other bracket. For more details on installing, you can check out that thread but i will give a quick summary here
Cut conductive pads. Snip off surround lip of conductive pad(IMPORTANT! Leaving the lip raises the pad further and creates more sag). Place conductive pad guide hole onto the bracket peg. Place board onto the back, and then insert a screw through the center hole. Afterwards, place the left and right brackets around the screw post, as shown in the pictures. Finally, place the screw post caps on top, to push the left and right brackets down and screw the caps in.
do not solder kite's spacer boards to the HDMI board. My printed cap replaces his spacer board. Should actually be better than his spacer boards as it is slightly lower.
In order to get the wells lower on the gameboy shell, I had to raise the height of the bracket to fit over the battery bay lip. Because of this the buttons will sag. Please place a spacer in your buttons. Easiest thing to do is take a hole punch to your plastic screen protector, and place that on the inside of your buttons. This way the button will not sag and you will have a much better response. This step is basically necessary, as the sag is quite annoying
The caps are made to be the proper length so that the hdmi/usb board can rest on top without soldering the spacer board. I noticed the soldered boards tend to be a little too high, but i have tested these keeps to be a better height. When inserted, they sit 1.6mm above the screw post, about .4mm shorter than bother spacer boards soldered and it seems to be a good fit.
STL FilesShow
Old FilesShow
Suggester settings:
infill: 50% or more
Walls: 2
support: Only for KiteBracket, no others.
