Cheaper than Teensy

[Helder]

OMG !
Great !

just one question, I don't see power output for the usb out.
How will be powered the usb devices ?

If you need testers, I'm interessed

Since the Pi Zero has lackluster power for USB and also since I literally can't fit anything else on this board in it's current size you will have to use 5V and GND from the powerboost or from anything else that has 5V you can tap into.

Wermy suggested I set it up this way and if I didn't I would have to sacrifice 1 out of the 3 available hubs which will kind of ruin my vision for this. I also though of a breakout board but that would again be more crap for me to solder up and would need good 5v power so it would go to the powerboost again.

I'm open for suggestions but I have little to no room on this thing.

[SidSilver]

OMG !
Great !

just one question, I don't see power output for the usb out.
How will be powered the usb devices ?

If you need testers, I'm interessed

Since the Pi Zero has lackluster power for USB and also since I literally can't fit anything else on this board in it's current size you will have to use 5V and GND from the powerboost or from anything else that has 5V you can tap into.

Wermy suggested I set it up this way and if I didn't I would have to sacrifice 1 out of the 3 available hubs which will kind of ruin my vision for this. I also though of a breakout board but that would again be more crap for me to solder up and would need good 5v power so it would go to the powerboost again.

I'm open for suggestions but I have little to no room on this thing.

I understand.
Indeed there's no much room on this board.

If I had one of this, I would wire the 5V and Gnd to the powerboost, not to the pi. I guess you understand why.
With this kind of wiring, you could separate the D+ / D- inputs from the power ones and put them on the left, near the USB hub chip.
By doing this, you may get back little room top of the data pins for usb 1 - 3, maybe it would be enough to put 5V + Gnd ?

[spoiler="Quick draw to show what I mean"][/spoiler]

Just a suggestion, if it can help

Also, I don't know what are the ISP pins for.

[Oxodao]

Also, I don't know what are the ISP pins for.

That's for programming the microcontroller (ATMEGA32U4)

[Ganreizu]

That's for programming the microcontroller (ATMEGA32U4)

AKA a teensy right? How does that work? Is it pre-programmed?

[Helder]

I understand.
Indeed there's no much room on this board.

If I had one of this, I would wire the 5V and Gnd to the powerboost, not to the pi. I guess you understand why.
With this kind of wiring, you could separate the D+ / D- inputs from the power ones and put them on the left, near the USB hub chip.
By doing this, you may get back little room top of the data pins for usb 1 - 3, maybe it would be enough to put 5V + Gnd ?

[spoiler="Quick draw to show what I mean"][/spoiler]

Just a suggestion, if it can help

Also, I don't know what are the ISP pins for.

Well I went and tried to make it work and moving traces and adding ground point vias made it work so here it is with the GND and 5V points.

[Helder]

That's for programming the microcontroller (ATMEGA32U4)

AKA a teensy right? How does that work? Is it pre-programmed?

ISP headers or similar Jtag headers are used in just about every microcontroller out there for ease of programming. The whole reason for the testers too is to see if we can program these through USB (hopefully) or with the ISP and if it is the only way I'll preprogram them before going out to customers.

I have also been thinking that if you hook us a USB cable to the Pi Zero USB Input points on the right hand side of the board you can just plug it into a PC since the atmega is connected to USB Hub 4 and should be detected on the Arduino IDE, again testing of this needs to be done to be sure and if all is well I can probably remove the ISP header in the future.

[username 123]

You're doing a great job Helder. Honestly I've never seen such progression with all the projects I have done.
Do you have any plans to make boards for the gameboy pocket/color/SP/advance?
With all this space saving you have accomplish with this all-in-one board I'm sure it's now very possible with the smaller game boys.

[tronicgr]

That's for programming the microcontroller (ATMEGA32U4)

AKA a teensy right? How does that work? Is it pre-programmed?

ISP headers or similar Jtag headers are used in just about every microcontroller out there for ease of programming. The whole reason for the testers too is to see if we can program these through USB (hopefully) or with the ISP and if it is the only way I'll preprogram them before going out to customers.

I have also been thinking that if you hook us a USB cable to the Pi Zero USB Input points on the right hand side of the board you can just plug it into a PC since the atmega is connected to USB Hub 4 and should be detected on the Arduino IDE, again testing of this needs to be done to be sure and if all is well I can probably remove the ISP header in the future.

I think you should keep the isp header in any case as its the only way to reload the arduino bootloader on it. Do you have a place where all necessary files are for this (arduino code or HEX file, bootloader Teensy or arduino, fuse settings) ??

I still would like one of the previous version board to assemble and test the Joystick part only.

Thanks
Thanos

[Helder]

You're doing a great job Helder. Honestly I've never seen such progression with all the projects I have done.
Do you have any plans to make boards for the gameboy pocket/color/SP/advance?
With all this space saving you have accomplish with this all-in-one board I'm sure it's now very possible with the smaller game boys.

I do have plans to do the GBA not SP but one console a a time, and there are a few more things I'd like to do now that this is theoretically complete to ease all the building of these GBZ units but all this takes time especially waiting on the boards to arrive as well as parts.

AKA a teensy right? How does that work? Is it pre-programmed?

ISP headers or similar Jtag headers are used in just about every microcontroller out there for ease of programming. The whole reason for the testers too is to see if we can program these through USB (hopefully) or with the ISP and if it is the only way I'll preprogram them before going out to customers.

I have also been thinking that if you hook us a USB cable to the Pi Zero USB Input points on the right hand side of the board you can just plug it into a PC since the atmega is connected to USB Hub 4 and should be detected on the Arduino IDE, again testing of this needs to be done to be sure and if all is well I can probably remove the ISP header in the future.

I think you should keep the isp header in any case as its the only way to reload the arduino bootloader on it. Do you have a place where all necessary files are for this (arduino code or HEX file, bootloader Teensy or arduino, fuse settings) ??

I still would like one of the previous version board to assemble and test the Joystick part only.

Thanks
Thanos

It was posted a few pages back but all will be available once I got these in hand, I'll make a new thread about it so it's all relevant and not so cluttered like it is now.

[Oxodao]

That's for programming the microcontroller (ATMEGA32U4)

AKA a teensy right? How does that work? Is it pre-programmed?

Actually it works like a Teensy though it's an Arduino Leonardo (Or Arduino Pro Micro).
If I'm not mistaken, it do not use the same chip but it has the same goal