Understanding a USB Hub

[Kilren]

That last port is power only and like I mentioned above is either active and receives power or is inactive and does nothing since the switch cuts off power to it.

Darn, that is disappointing. I bought this thinking it was a 4-port usb. Any suggestions for equally small board that has four ports?

I still want to remove the switch for low profile. How do I bridge it so that the other 3 ports continue to function correctly?

[Helder]

That last port is power only and like I mentioned above is either active and receives power or is inactive and does nothing since the switch cuts off power to it.

Darn, that is disappointing. I bought this thinking it was a 4-port usb. Any suggestions for equally small board that has four ports?

I still want to remove the switch for low profile. How do I bridge it so that the other 3 ports continue to function correctly?

Use a multimeter and check for continuity, I know that the 2nd picture that top 2 right hand side solder holes are 5V, you need to see what contacts are broken when the switch is up and down then jump the points with a wire.

You can possibly remove the switch and have power going to all ports in case you want that power for something.

This should be it:

[chiz]

@Kilren
I used this 4-port "octopus/splitter" hub to replace the first octopus hub PCB I damaged (accidentally lifted the traces). The hub I got also has an IC which I think is more durable than the first one I had that had a small chip with epoxy.

I strongly suggest that you first test thoroughly for compatibility before opening as one out of the two I ordered is defective. You can see the hub PCB in my latest build log pics.

Edit: I just got a "turtle" hub in the mail today and it's even smaller than the octopus hub! (Makes sense: turtles are smaller than octopuses LOL) I plan of replacing the hub in my current build with this smaller hub board.

[Fleder]

Any suggestions for equally small board that has four ports?

I've got a Sweex US012.
It is pretty small, but i haven't desoldered it yet, so i don't know how easy this will be.
Also, it is not that thin, because of the module.
See here:

[Kilren]

I've got a Sweex US012.

Also, it is not that thin, because of the module.

How tall is it?
Edit: and has it been fairly dependable?

[Fleder]

How tall is it?
Edit: and has it been fairly dependable?

It is exactly as tall as those USB Ports
If you desolder them, the only thing that is higher is this electronic part, which you can see on the picture.
This is a mm short of the USB Ports height. But you may be able to resolder this part or bend it down.
It is really dependable. Had no problems so far with all 4 ports occupied (Keyboard, Gamepad, USB DAC, WiFi).

[PeteB]

That last port is power only and like I mentioned above is either active and receives power or is inactive and does nothing since the switch cuts off power to it.

Darn, that is disappointing. I bought this thinking it was a 4-port usb. Any suggestions for equally small board that has four ports?

I still want to remove the switch for low profile. How do I bridge it so that the other 3 ports continue to function correctly?

The odd port is to plug your charger into. The switch lets you switch between charging or using the hub devices. This is meant to be used with a phone or tablet that only has one port for charging and usb otg. The switch and charger port save you plugging and unplugging every time you need to charge. Sadly most systems can't handle charging and usb devices at the same time with just the otg port.

Pete B.

[Jman11]

Could it be possible that the 2 wires going to the micro usb connector can be 2 for power or 2 for either data? if switch is Up lets say it just sends power but if the switch is down it just sends data and the host computer provides the power of some sort?

Kinda hard to explain my thinking sorry

[Fleder]

Could it be possible that the 2 wires going to the micro usb connector can be 2 for power or 2 for either data? if switch is Up lets say it just sends power but if the switch is down it just sends data and the host computer provides the power of some sort?

Kinda hard to explain my thinking sorry

You want to switch between power only and data mode?
You would need some kind of XPYT Switch, or if you wire + permanently, you could do with a DPDT Switch.
This is just theoretically, i don't know if this works.