Boxy Pixel DMG CM3 Rev. C aluminium shell
Kite Circuit Sword CM3 with 640x480 screen and volume wheel upgrades
Soft touch tactile rear buttons
Joy Con joystick
The first thing I set to work on was expanding the opening for the volume wheel. Boxy Pixel makes the shell to fit the standard board and the opening is neither wide enough or deep enough for the wheel. A bit of filing and it fits nicely though.
Next up the Joy Con stick. It took a bit of work to figure out the wiring but I got there in the end. The Boxy Rev. C shell has a little dimple to drill out your own joystick hole, but it’s placed to suit a PSP-2000 stick. The Joy Con stick lines up differently so I made myself a drill guide and a cover to align and hold the joystick correctly once it’s all assembled. If you’re thinking of doing the same I’ve attached the stl’s for drill guide and cover below.
You’ll need a 3mm drill bit for the drill guide and a 15mm drill for the joystick - Joy Con sticks don’t have a separate cap so it needs to be a big hole! I used a stepped drill bit and went to 16mm. Use a file to clean up any burrs after drilling, so that the joystick will sit flush.
The Joy Con stick will need an FPC adapter to connect to the Circuit Sword - I used a 6 pin FPC adapter; cutting or filing about a millimetre off one side will make it narrow enough to fit in the cavity below the Start/Select button wells. I wrapped the adapter board in kapton tape to avoid any shorts.
You could use hoolyhoos pcb for the rear buttons but I already had all the switches to hand so I made a 3D printed bracket to hold the buttons in the right location instead. The buttons are each connected to the appropriate L1/2/R1/2 wire and the GND daisy chained between them. Stl for the bracket below.
Boxy Pixel provided me with the stl for the battery holder.
I reused an old glass lens for the screen. I scraped off the old, damaged paint with a razor blade and painted a black border in place before sticking it down.
Stuff left to do:
Fix the joystick - it works perfectly right up until I close the case. I think I’ve damaged the ribbon cable twisting it about when prototyping the fitting
Replace the glass lens - it’s a reused old one and has some smudges and a scratch. Could polish it up but a fresh new one would be better.