YaYa's first GBZ - Kite's SAIO - Big Battery - NO Glue - Custom 3D parts - DC Jack - minimum case mod

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YaYa's first GBZ - Kite's SAIO - Big Battery - NO Glue - Custom 3D parts - DC Jack - minimum case mod

Post by YaYa » Sun Oct 01, 2017 9:11 am

Hello sudoers !

After many monthes of waiting and gathering the parts, i finally had all gathered and the build is almost finished.

Nothing really new here, i just wanted the less modification to the shell, and i wanted zero glue.
Also, as Kite's mobo is a masterpiece, i wanted to show all the internals and thus, opted for a transparent case.

What's inside :
- aftermarket transparent shell (bought from Dead Pan Robots)
- Kite's SAIO with 3.5" SCREEN (DPI)
- 30mm / 2W / 5.8mm height mono speaker
- 4800 mAh Samsung Galaxy S2 battery with pogo pins connectors (not yet connected)
- dark smoke color buttons
- white buttons pads
- Raspberry Pi Zero W (overclocked)
- Tiny 17x17x3mm blower for cooling (bought from Kite)
- Original Gameboy cartridge hacked with PRS-Tech's SD Card reader (not yet connected)
- Added LEDS for status to cartridge (not yet connected)
- GBA Classic GameBoy cartridge connector
- Glass screen cover with 3mm black borders (bought from Dead Pan Robots)
- DC Barrel jack (3.5x1.3mm) connector


For those wondering if Kite's SAIO worth the money... well, it does :D
The screen is really sharp and fluid, responsive, no ghost or flickering :D
The sound is good and is excellent with the headphones (i have professional Sennheiser closed headphones, and the sound is powerful and very loud, actually louder than with the speaker. Also, it is stereo while the external speaker's output is mono)
The quality is really good and Kite is really very handy while we need support
- i had a problem with SD pads and he helped me for the diagnosis
- i bricked the Arduino while trying to flash it with the latest hex on the github and he helped me to recompile the code and flash it :mrgreen:

The leds on the board are very handy for diagnostics and you can see step by step what is working and what is not


Message to Kite, now you know your python flash script is not working :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
The buildShow
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The DC Barrel plug with Kite's SD reader in the contrast portShow
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The mode button + Leds for statuses in the original Gameboy cart…Show
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The mode button + Leds for statuses in the original Gameboy cartridge
The mode button is not glued, it is simply maintained by a 3D pr…Show
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The mode button is not glued, it is simply maintained by a 3D printed insert
The DC Barrel and the power switch are not glued, they are maint…Show
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The DC Barrel and the power switch are not glued, they are maintained by a 3D printed part
The back of the buildShow
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The Battery trayShow
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Last edited by YaYa on Fri Oct 27, 2017 11:28 am, edited 8 times in total.

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Re: YaYa's first GBZ - SAIO - Big Battery - NO Glue - DC Jack Barrel plug

Post by YaYa » Sun Oct 01, 2017 9:11 am

The slight modifications to the battery trayShow
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I completely missed my drilling for X/Y :oops: i need to redo th…Show
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I completely missed my drilling for X/Y :oops: i need to redo the case because Y is a bit loose in the wells and playing with it is not very comfortable
The board and the beauty :lol: :lol:Show
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Soldering starts : the tests pads behind the Pi for perfect alig…Show
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Soldering starts : the tests pads behind the Pi for perfect alignment with SAIO
Soldered the SD Pads, USB pads and the first 2 and last 2 pins f…Show
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Soldered the SD Pads, USB pads and the first 2 and last 2 pins from GPIO
First power IN with switch OFF---> All GOOD : )Show
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The following leds must be lit : INPUT/COMP/PGOOD/ARD 3.3V/ST1. On the github, it is also said that the CHARGE led must be lit but i did never, i think there's an error on the tutorial, as the battery at this step is not connected thus the charging circuitry must not be active (Kite, i'm i right ?)
First power ON---> All GOODShow
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The following leds must be lit : INPUT/COMP/PGOOD/ARD 3.3V/ST1/RUN/VCC Power/PWR3V3/PWR5V
At this step, i had a problem with a PI showing zero activity...
What i did for solving this, with the intensive help of kite on Discord :mrgreen:

If the Pi is showing 0 activity (no LED)
- Desolder the 3.3V jumper
- Double check the 3.3V jumper has no contact between the two pads (use a voltmeter in continuity test mode)
- Flash a fresh retropie into a sd card but not kite’s version !!!! You can use v4.3
- Put the sd card on Pi not the SAIO
- Put hdmi cable on the Pi
- Power the Pi not the SAIO — BE CAREFUL !!!! You MUST desolder the 3.3V jumper before powering directly the Pi otherwise, your are going to be really bad

If the Pi act led is blinking, then, bingo. Your problem are the SD pads soldering.

Rework them and then try to boot the SD card from the SAIO but still official retropie, still with desoldered jumper, still with HDMI.

If it boots, then your problem is solved.

Resolder the jumper, take off the HDMI, burn the Kite image, power the SAIO and not the Pi (BE CaReFUl !!!!)

And then enjoy :D

First boot after SD pads debugging in HDMIShow
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When i was sure that the SD pads were working, i flashed Kite's image and finished the soldering of the Pi GPIO's
Tada !!! It's aliveShow
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I was really proud i made the LCD test from first attempt... Yeah 8-)
Cooling system for overclockingShow
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I have used a very high temperature conductive self sticking pad.
I've putted it a bit larger than the SoC, and applied a pure copper plate on it to help dissipate the heat. When the build will be finished and the cable management done, i’ll measure how much height is remaining to put a real heatsink instead to help cooling (i think a 5mm height will have room)
Last edited by YaYa on Mon Oct 02, 2017 9:51 am, edited 15 times in total.

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Re: YaYa's first GBZ - SAIO - Big Battery - NO Glue - DC Jack Barrel plug

Post by YaYa » Sun Oct 01, 2017 9:11 am

Power consumptionShow
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The measurement was made during one hour. This picture is the max draw...
After some calculations, i have an average draw of 342mAh so my 4800mAh battery should give me 14h playing (theory)
I made some optimization to the system like disabling samba, disabling PI's led, killing unnecessary processes but i forgot to make tests before doing this so i don't know how much current draw i‘m saving
The 3D print used for the power switch/DC jackShow
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This is the first version, i've reworked it (you can see the drawings on the part) to fit perfectly my ordered parts so i don't have to glue them.
At the moment, i am waiting for the print to be printed and shipped to use the latest version.
EDIT : new tests for current drainShow
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I’ve been playing for 2 hours Neo Geo, SNES and Megadrive... and the current drain is really low :mrgreen:
852mAh !!! So i’ll be able to play more than 11 hours with my 4800mAh battery 8-)
update 04/10/2017

The cartridge, as always, no glue :mrgreen:
http://www.sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic. ... 267#p46267
Last edited by YaYa on Wed Oct 04, 2017 8:51 am, edited 6 times in total.

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Re: YaYa's first GBZ - SAIO - Big Battery - NO Glue - DC Jack Barrel plug

Post by YaYa » Sun Oct 01, 2017 9:11 am

Optimizing the setup :mrgreen:


Works with any Raspberry based system like Pi0/1/2/3 whatever revision, and also or CM3 8-)

Ok, lets save some RAM, some CPU, some Watts :D

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1) personnaly, i don't need Samba so -----> OUT
Launch Retropie config

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sudo ~/RetroPie-Setup/retropie_setup.sh
Choose C : Configuration / tools
Choose 828 : Samba
Choose 2 : Remove Samba Shares
Choose 5 : Remove Samba


2) i will never use Romservice so i'd better desactivate it to save :mrgreen:
Launch Retropie config

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sudo ~/RetroPie-Setup/retropie_setup.sh
Choose C : Configuration / tools
Choose 835 : usbromservice
Choose 2 : disable usbromservice scripts


3) If you are not HDMI, disabling the circuitry will help save current
Shut HDMI Off

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/usr/bin/tvservice -o
(-p to re-enable)
Then disable it permanently

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sudo nano /etc/rc.local
and add the code above to the end of the file.
CTRL o to write Out the file, CTRL x to eXit the file

Do not use that code if you are using composite screen or something relying on fbcp because you will go black screen lol. Sorry i didn’t mention this before. It’s still ok if you’ve encountering a black screen. Simply ssh to your pi and delete the entry on rc.local and reboot. It’s safe to use with spi and dpi screens


4) Lets save more and disable the Pi Status LED

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sudo nano /boot/config.txt
Add this lines to the end of the file

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##########################
#### DISABLE PI STATUS LED ######
##########################
dtparam=act_led_trigger=none
dtparam=act_led_activelow=on
CTRL o to write Out the file, CTRL x to eXit the file


5) I/O Scheduler to improve SD performance

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sudo nano /boot/cmdline.txt
change 'elevator=deadline' to 'elevator=noop' (be careful not to destroy the line by adding any breaklines)
CTRL o to write Out the file, CTRL x to eXit the file


6) To further extend SD life and reduce power consumptions, we are going to change swappiness to 1; This will allow swap to happen only when we've completely run out of RAM. We do not need to remove swap entirely.

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sudo nano /etc/sysctl.conf
Add this line to the end of the file

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vm.swappiness = 1
CTRL o to write Out the file, CTRL x to eXit the file


7) We are setting noatime to fat partition. This allows file system to stop writing last time files were accessed and thus saving I/O to the SD (thus expanding life and saving power :mrgreen: )

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sudo nano /etc/fstab
add 'noatime' to /boot
Example of my file

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proc            /proc           proc    defaults          0       0
PARTUUID=3d24ca30-01  /boot           vfat    defaults,noatime,nodiratime       0       2
PARTUUID=3d24ca30-02  /               ext4    defaults,noatime,nodiratime  0       1
# a swapfile is not a swap partition, no line here
#   use  dphys-swapfile swap[on|off]  for that
CTRL o to write Out the file, CTRL x to eXit the file


8)We need to mount temp and logs to RAM to save SD writes and to save power

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sudo nano /etc/fstab
add those lines to the end of the file

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tmpfs /var/log tmpfs defaults,size=20m,noatime,nodev,nosuid,mode=1777 0 0
tmpfs /tmp tmpfs defaults,size=10m,noatime,nodev,nosuid,mode=1777 0 0
CTRL o to write Out the file, CTRL x to eXit the file


9)When logging to RAM, we need to setup dummy directories that some services need otherwise, they will not run very good or not run
(referenced from: http://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/a/14094)

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sudo nano /etc/init.d/prepare-dirs
Copy and paste this

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#!/bin/bash
#
### BEGIN INIT INFO
# Provides: prepare-dirs
# Default-Start: 2 3 4 5
# Default-Stop: 0 1 6
# Required-Start:
# Required-Stop:
# Short-Description: Create needed directories on /var/log/ for tmpfs at startup
# Description: Create needed directories on /var/log/ for tmpfs at startup
### END INIT INFO
# needed Dirs
DIR[0]=/var/log/apt
DIR[1]=/var/log/ConsoleKit
DIR[2]=/var/log/fsck
DIR[3]=/var/log/ntpstats
DIR[4]=/var/log/lastlog
DIR[5]=/var/log/watchdog
DIR[6]=/var/log/proftpd
case "${1:-''}" in
  start)
  typeset -i i=0 max=${#DIR[*]}
  while (( i < max ))
  do
  mkdir ${DIR[$i]}
  chmod 755 ${DIR[$i]}
  i=i+1
  done
  # set rights
  chown www-data.www-data ${DIR[0]}
  ;;
  stop)
  ;;
  restart)
  ;;
  reload|force-reload)
  ;;
  status)
  ;;
  *)
  echo "Usage: $SELF start"
  exit 1
  ;;
esac
CTRL o to write Out the file, CTRL x to eXit the file
We need to "activate" the script file

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sudo chmod 755 /etc/init.d/prepare-dirs
sudo update-rc.d prepare-dirs defaults 01 99
We make the script executable, and we make sure that the script will be started first on boot before your daemons start

10) Remove avahi daemon. This will be lighter on resources
By doing this, you lose ability to refer to 'pi.local' while referecing the Pi, so you will need to use host name or ip address instead

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sudo apt-get purge avahi-daemon -y

11) The onboard Bluetooth device of the Raspberry Pi Zero W can be disabled by adding dtoverlay=pi3-disable-bt to the config.txt file. Wifi is disabled with dtoverlay=pi3-disable-wifi. I need wifi so i'll just disable Bluetooth :D (and kite's SAIO allows mode button combination to disable it

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sudo nano /boot/config.txt
Add the lines to the end of the file

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##########################
#### DISABLE BLUETOOTH ######
##########################
dtoverlay=pi3-disable-bt
CTRL o to write Out the file, CTRL x to eXit the file

12) Disable wait for LAN at boot, will speed up boot time and disable all the interface kernels

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sudo raspi-config
While here in he raspi-config, do the following for your own safety : 1 change password and Define hostname to your like (option 2) (this will prevent someone to easily find you and hack you, better be safe than sorry lol)
3. Boot options -> B2 Wait for network at boot (disable it)
5. Interfacing options
Disable Camera
Disable VNC
Disable SPI
Disable I2C
Disable Serial
Disable 1-wire
Then make some other stuff clean also, go to 4. Localization option, set your language and timezone and also the Wifi country (for legal stuff)


13) DISABLE MESSAGES AND LOGO / BOOT for a cleaner look and also to have a fancy look if you are using a spashscreen video

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sudo nano /boot/cmdline.txt
You will see a single line with all the boot options. Scroll along and change the following making sure not to add any linebreaks:
- Replace "console=tty1" by "console=tty3" to redirect boot messages to the third console.
- Add "loglevel=3" to disable non-critical kernel log messages. (should be default option normally)
- Add "logo.nologo" to the end of the line to remove the Raspberry PI logos from displaying
CTRL o to write Out the file, CTRL x to eXit the file
The logo.nologo option is what turns off the raspberries on boot.

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sudo nano /boot/config.txt
You can also disable the rainbow splash at the beginning (not to be confused with the underpowered rainbow square that appears in the top right corner of your screen indicating you have an insufficient power supply)

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##########################
#### DISABLE Rainbow SPLASH ######
##########################
disable_splash=1

14) We are going to replace OpenSSH with DropBear; lighter on resources (minus 10mb RAM used :D )
(referenced from http://pingbin.com/2011/07/how-to-repla ... -dropbear/)

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sudo apt-get install dropbear
sudo nano /etc/default/dropbear
At the beginning of the file, you have to set 'NO_START' to '0' to enable DropBear
CTRL o to write Out the file, CTRL x to eXit the file

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sudo /etc/init.d/ssh stop
sudo /etc/init.d/dropbear start
sudo apt-get purge openssh-server -y
This will stop ssh, start DropBear and uninstall openssh-server.


15) Now we disable triggerhappy that is used for keyboard hotkeys and thus unnecessary to us (saves a few RAM)

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sudo systemctl disable triggerhappy
sudo systemctl stop triggerhappy


16) If you don't use ipV6, then desactivate it, you will free some RAM and save CPU thus power

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sudo nano /etc/sysctl.conf
Add this line to the end of the file

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net.ipv6.conf.all.disable_ipv6 = 1
CTRL o to write Out the file, CTRL x to eXit the file
For the change to take effect without rebooting:

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sudo sysctl -p
Verify that IPv6 address does not show up in ifconfig.

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ifconfig
You must not see any entries with inet6 addr:... :mrgreen:


17) We need to cleanup the system by removing the unused packages

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sudo apt-get autoremove --purge
EDIT : i had an issue after clean up, the openssh-sftp-server was judged orphan so deleted by the purge command. I wasn't anymore able to use winscp to connect over ssh to my Pi which is a big issue for transferring roms.
If this is your case, just

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sudo apt-get install openssh-sftp-server
and you will be ready to go :mrgreen:


18) More fine tuning to the filesystem I/O, optimizing the cache writes

Inspired by https://lonesysadmin.net/2013/12/22/bet ... rty_ratio/ (i advise you to read in order to fully understand what you are doing)
This tuning will optimize the cache writings to the SD card but be aware that this is unsafe for the data being cached. In our particular usage, we don't really care of cache data being lost, we are caring about extending our SD card life.
What worst can happen ? The data in cache is lost due to power fault but what we loose ? Logs ? We do not write them as we want less SD I/O ! Opened documents ? We don't work on documents, this a console, not a workstation... We just play lol so no care of all this. So we loose nothing critical. Once setup, the system is in standalone mode and is only intended to play. You can go with this optimization.

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sudo nano /etc/sysctl.conf
add those lines to the end of the file

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##########################
#### FINE TUNE CACHING  ########
##########################
vm.dirty_background_ratio=20
vm.dirty_ratio=40
vm.dirty_writeback_centisecs=12000
vm.dirty_expire_centisecs=12000
CTRL o to write Out the file, CTRL x to eXit the file and reboot for the changes to be applied.

vm.dirty_background_ratio is the percentage of system memory that can be filled with “dirty” pages — memory pages that still need to be written to disk — before the pdflush/flush/kdmflush background processes kick in to write it to disk. My example is 10%, so if my virtual server has 32 GB of memory that’s 3.2 GB of data that can be sitting in RAM before something is done.

vm.dirty_ratio is the absolute maximum amount of system memory that can be filled with dirty pages before everything must get committed to disk. When the system gets to this point all new I/O blocks until dirty pages have been written to disk. This is often the source of long I/O pauses, but is a safeguard against too much data being cached unsafely in memory.

vm.dirty_writeback_centisecs is how often the pdflush/flush/kdmflush processes wake up and check to see if work needs to be done.

vm.dirty_expire_centisecs is how long something can be in cache before it needs to be written. In this case it’s 30 seconds. When the pdflush/flush/kdmflush processes kick in they will check to see how old a dirty page is, and if it’s older than this value it’ll be written asynchronously to disk. Since holding a dirty page in memory is unsafe this is also a safeguard against data loss.


Those 4 paragraphs are taken directly from https://lonesysadmin.net/2013/12/22/bet ... rty_ratio/ and all the credits goes to the author.

In my settings, we push the limits further to really save writes, so we are using 20% or RAm usage for dirty pages, ultimately 40%, and we write data every 2 minutes and check every 2 minutes if something needs to be written.
More to come :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Image
If you find this guide useful and think that it deserves it, please support by making a donation. Nothing mandatory, you are free. Any amount will be greatly appreciated.

UPDATE 17/03/2018 - Creating a system menu in Emulation Station to apply my optimization settings :mrgreen:

Yeah, thanks to Somatorio, you can now apply some of my optimization settings right from Emulation Station by accessing a menu system like if you were browsing roms :lol:
Somatorio did a huge work on that, there are some minor stuff to improve but the code is perfectly working and the settings are now accessible via a menu system, that means you no longer have to type code in terminal to aply them :mrgreen:

So, please say thank you to Somatorio :D

Here is how to.

1) SSH into your Game Boy (Pi3 or CM3 or Zero based)
read here for instructions on how to https://www.sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=3567
2) Normally you start on home directory, but just to be sure to not mess up your system by writing stuffs where you must not write, navigate to your home folder

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cd ~
3) get the installer

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wget http://gbz-menu.somatorio.org/
4) rename the file to something more useful and make the installer executable

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mv index.html gbz-menu-install
chmod +x gbz-menu-install
5) launch installer

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sudo ./gbz-menu-install
6) go have a coffee :lol:

7) reboot and enjoy

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sudo reboot
you can see in this video how it looks like :D

Last edited by YaYa on Sat Dec 09, 2017 3:23 am, edited 23 times in total.

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Re: YaYa's first GBZ - Kite's SAIO - Big Battery - NO Glue - DC Jack Barrel plug

Post by YaYa » Sun Oct 01, 2017 10:12 am

Spinning the FAN :mrgreen:


After struggling to make the fan working... I abandoned and asked for help to Kite... He told me that actually the fan stuff was disabled as he moved it to Pi3Ext board :?
I asked for a method to activate it, and as Kite is really handy and willing to help, there you are :mrgreen:
What do you need ???Show
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Kite told me to add Q11 (PFET IRLML6402) and R32 (a resistor between 10k and 100kOhm, SMD0402).
I ordered them and once i have received my parcel, i opened it and just thought : oh my god, how am i going to solder this :lol: :lol: :lol:
Where do we solder thoseShow
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The circuitry shematics
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The same place on the board, please don't pay attention to my cheap soldering made to the cables :mrgreen:
look the next spoiler's pictures, i've reworked the solders :lol:
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Blank test fitting
Solder job doneShow
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It's alive and spinning weeeeeeShow
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When you power on the device, until Kite's startup script is loaded, the fan is spinning.
Then once the script is loaded, if the Pi's temperature is below the programmed temperature, it stops, otherwise, it continues to spin :mrgreen:

You can edit the saio-osd.py file to change the value.

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sudo nano /home/pi/Super-AIO/release/saio/saio-osd.py
Find those lines

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temperature_max = 60.0
temperature_threshold = 5.0
temperature_isover = False
and change to match your needs (i've putted 55/5) Leave the parameter isover alone :D

as always, CTRL o to write Out the file, CTRL x to eXit the file
Last edited by YaYa on Wed Oct 04, 2017 8:11 am, edited 6 times in total.

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Re: YaYa's first GBZ - SAIO - Big Battery - NO Glue - DC Jack Barrel plug

Post by VeteranGamer » Sun Oct 01, 2017 10:39 am

YaYa wrote:
Sun Oct 01, 2017 9:11 am
Power consumptionShow
IMG_0747.JPG
The measurement was made during one hour. This picture is the max draw...
After some calculations, i have an average draw of 342mAh so my 4800mAh battery should give me 14h playing (theory)
Imade some optimization to the system like disabling samba, disabling PI's led, killing unnecessary processes but i forgot to make tests before doing this so i don't know how much current i saved
The 3D print used for the power switch/DC jackShow
IMG_0272.JPG
IMG_0270.JPG
IMG_0271.JPG
IMG_0273.JPG
IMG_0274.JPG
IMG_0275.JPG
IMG_0276.JPG
This is the first version, i've reworked it (you can see the drawings on the part) to fit perfectly my ordered parts so i don't have to glue them.
At the moment, i am waiting for the print to be printed and shipped to use the latest version.

nice build, looks good....

i would suggest to consider some VHB tape for those part....
if not for the switch, definitely for the power socket, plugging and unplugging will eventually move it unless its held in there really firmly


.

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Re: YaYa's first GBZ - SAIO - Big Battery - NO Glue - DC Jack Barrel plug

Post by YaYa » Sun Oct 01, 2017 10:47 am

VeteranGamer wrote:
Sun Oct 01, 2017 10:39 am
nice build, looks good....

i would suggest to consider some VHB tape for those part....
if not for the switch, definitely for the power socket, plugging and unplugging will eventually move it unless its held in there really firmly
Thanks Veteran. I've used VHB :D
The design at the moment for the DC Barrel and switch support is flat but now i've added some walls that will act like "clips" to hold the components, but the design is made to still put VHB as i know that switching on/of and plugging and unplugging will lastly finish by destroying the parts ! Can't wait to have the prints in my mailbox :mrgreen:

Thank you for your advice :D

I'll post soon some pictures from the internals 'as soon as i'll have the latest versions of the printed parts)

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Re: YaYa's first GBZ - Kite's SAIO - Big Battery - NO Glue - DC Jack - minimum case mod

Post by neolith » Mon Oct 02, 2017 3:39 am

Awesome! Thanks for sharing, YaYa! :)
– "The biggest trick the devil ever pulled was convincing the world he didn't exist." –

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Re: YaYa's first GBZ - Kite's SAIO - Big Battery - NO Glue - DC Jack - minimum case mod

Post by Eccho » Mon Oct 02, 2017 4:06 am

Awesome looking build man! I like how deep you went into the description!

I would like to see how you set up the LED on top of your cartridge, is it taking a lot of space? I would like to try with a super tiny (maximal trimming) Pi3 and fit it there.

Congrats! :D

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Re: YaYa's first GBZ - Kite's SAIO - Big Battery - NO Glue - DC Jack - minimum case mod

Post by YaYa » Mon Oct 02, 2017 4:30 am

Eccho wrote:
Mon Oct 02, 2017 4:06 am
Awesome looking build man! I like how deep you went into the description!

I would like to see how you set up the LED on top of your cartridge, is it taking a lot of space? I would like to try with a super tiny (maximal trimming) Pi3 and fit it there.

Congrats! :D
I’ll post pictures of the internals tomorrow along with pictures of the cartridge. You can really make a small fit of this by using other leds. I bought 3mm leds but next time, i’ll deal with smd to make the look ever better.

My build is not yet finished.

Still to do :
- fix the pogo pins so that it can make contact with the battery. I am waiting for my custom 3D part for this.
- wire up the leds to Kite’s SAIO and remove his front smd leds... (maybe i’ll reuse them to improve the look :mrgreen: )
- finish the design of L1 and R1 (custom :D part) to be able to use normal buttons with single button PCB from Kitsch Bent.
- wire up the SD extender from Prs-Tech.
- add the magical leds with the pot to dim them :mrgreen:

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