Game Boy Pi 3 - 1UP - 1st Build [Complete]

[jazzmasta25]

Thank you wermy, and the entire community. I cannot count how many times I referenced this board during my build.

After quite a struggle I have finally completed my first build. Here are the major parts I used:

• 1UP Kit
• Pi3
• 32GB SD Card
• Galaxy S4 Battery
• 4Pcs Soshine 3.2V 700mAh Rechargeable AA 14500 LiFePO4 Batteries
• Software Recalbox, I prefer RetroPie but I could not get it to work with this kit.
• 2x Replacement Kedei screens (Amazon)

The instructions for the 1UP kit are not in English, but were translated pretty well by SGGEEK. Still some things are confusing and posts concerning this kit are scarce.

The case looks very janky, and I am unhappy about how it looks. I had a lot of problems with the case mods, fitting the screen and pi3 is really difficult. I cracked my first screen, trying to jam it in and then cut the power ribbon on the replacement screen (while removing it from the board it came with). On the third screen I was extremely careful and got it in and working. Surprisingly, after all of the issues the system performs well, and the sound is good as well.

Lessons learned, tips, problems for 1UP kits:

SpoilerShow

• Don't make a Pi3 build for your first build.
• Cut the case slowly, test for fit constantly.
• The Kedei screen included is extremely fragile, you have to thin the walls to the case to make it fit. Don't force it at all.
• I had to mod the screen's board a bit to get it to work, following the guide my battery was only supplying 0.5v, I am not sure why this was but I seemed to resolve it.
• I would not make another 6 button, 4 buttons on the front is really enough.
• Button membranes need to be trimmed, and needed super glue bits inside them to make the buttons feel right. The D-Pad still does not feel that great, and START / SELECT are very sunken in. Not sure how to fix that.
• R/L buttons do not feel good at all, they need some kind of bracket.
• Test everything, every step.
• The low voltage light comes on quite a bit, not sure what to do on that.

I am very happy to see Kite's new board and went ahead and ordered a couple of those. I am hoping the build process is much simpler.

Here are some images:

SpoilerShow

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[YaYa]

So you have 2 batteries inside ?

[Lpoolm]

Everything you are describing is what I think!
I don't normally take this long to complete a build but there is little joy in this build.
I totally agree with the case mod issue, I'm still struggling to get it to fit and still can't get the L+R buttons to work /feel right!
I have also noticed the low voltage warning?
Can't wait to finish this then sell it!

[cobramike]

So you have 2 batteries inside ?

Ya i have one to. One problem do!!. Is that when you charge your battery the battery cells are not charging. So you need to take them out and charge them separately. And overall its not that great believe me. Sound is humming / sissing when playing. Right hand is getting very hot because of the battery module that is taking 12V to 5V and that stupid thing is getting extremely hot.

[YaYa]

Hot = extreme power wasting

I’m definitely convinced that this kit is bulky and need some serious optimization
It is a working prototype lets say rather than a salable device...

[Fredl]

Well with all its problems it looks like a nice first build! And it seems like you learned quite a lot!

As for switching to Retropie, whats the matter? (I just build 2 of these, switched to Retropie and would never go back....)

The start and select: Did you secure the button pcb to the front of the shell with screws? The manual misses to explain that you have to do this but for me it made the buttons in general much better.

The humming sound drives me nuts though...

Edit:
The low voltage icon appears like all the time yes, but as I can see it it does no harm whatsoever...? So I just disabled the icon overlay, since there's nothing I can do about it at this point ^^

[jazzmasta25]

So you have 2 batteries inside ?

Ya i have one to. One problem do!!. Is that when you charge your battery the battery cells are not charging. So you need to take them out and charge them separately. And overall its not that great believe me. Sound is humming / sissing when playing. Right hand is getting very hot because of the battery module that is taking 12V to 5V and that stupid thing is getting extremely hot.

The switch lets you either use the big battery on the back or the AAs, according to the instructions there is a way to make it so it will charge both when plugged in. But I am not sure on how to accomplish that.

Well with all its problems it looks like a nice first build! And it seems like you learned quite a lot!

I did, and I had a lot of fun. Can't wait to build my next one.

As for switching to Retropie, whats the matter? (I just build 2 of these, switched to Retropie and would never go back....)

When I tried to use RetroPie none of the buttons would work, like no controller was plugged in.

The start and select: Did you secure the button pcb to the front of the shell with screws? The manual misses to explain that you have to do this but for me it made the buttons in general much better.

Do you mean the screws through the battery compartment? I put those in.

[cobramike]

So you have 2 batteries inside ?

Ya i have one to. One problem do!!. Is that when you charge your battery the battery cells are not charging. So you need to take them out and charge them separately. And overall its not that great believe me. Sound is humming / sissing when playing. Right hand is getting very hot because of the battery module that is taking 12V to 5V and that stupid thing is getting extremely hot.

The switch lets you either use the big battery on the back or the AAs, according to the instructions there is a way to make it so it will charge both when plugged in. But I am not sure on how to accomplish that.

Well with all its problems it looks like a nice first build! And it seems like you learned quite a lot!

I did, and I had a lot of fun. Can't wait to build my next one.

As for switching to Retropie, whats the matter? (I just build 2 of these, switched to Retropie and would never go back....)

When I tried to use RetroPie none of the buttons would work, like no controller was plugged in.

The start and select: Did you secure the button pcb to the front of the shell with screws? The manual misses to explain that you have to do this but for me it made the buttons in general much better.

Do you mean the screws through the battery compartment? I put those in.

I have the HD 2017 and its not possible. I already talked to the developer.

[Fredl]

When I tried to use RetroPie none of the buttons would work, like no controller was plugged in.

You have to use a driver called retrogame, which maps the GPIO pins to a "keyboard". You'll need to connect a USB keyboard first and input your Wifi credentials (or use LAN).
This guide explains how to install it (scroll to middle of page). Then you have to edit the config files so pins match up with the RecalBox configuration. No need to, though, just copy mine: ^^ (the file is /boot/retrogame.cfg)

Code: Select all

LEFT      27  # Joypad left
RIGHT     22  # Joypad right
UP         4  # Joypad up
DOWN      17  # Joypad down
Z         24  # 'A' button
X         25  # 'B' button
ESC        9  # 'Select' button
ENTER     10  # 'Start' button
S         15  # 'X' button
A         18  # 'Y' button
Q         14  # Left shoulder button
W         23  # Right shoulder button

Do you mean the screws through the battery compartment? I put those in.

No I mean the scres securing the button PCB to the front half (not the entire shell). When looking at the screws you mentioned imagine taking off the plastic, so you can see the white board. There are two more screw holes which you need to screw before putting on the back half. These secure the PCB rock solid without wobble to the front half and make for a nice and tight start+select combo. THey also greatly improved the dpad and buttons for me.

[jazzmasta25]

No I mean the scres securing the button PCB to the front half (not the entire shell). When looking at the screws you mentioned imagine taking off the plastic, so you can see the white board. There are two more screw holes which you need to screw before putting on the back half. These secure the PCB rock solid without wobble to the front half and make for a nice and tight start+select combo. THey also greatly improved the dpad and buttons for me.

Thanks a bunch, will try this. One more question, did you still have to put tiny cut pieces of glue inside your buttons to prop them up, or does adding these screws eliminate the need for that? I can't seem to cut the glue perfectly straight so the buttons are kinda angled.

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