sudomod

Hello,
I'm starting my first* GB3 Build and have almost all the parts. I am NOT using an AIO.

Pi 3
GB shell
Button sets
Rubber pads (accidentally got nes pads, have to trim them) Now using 2x sets of GB pads
Kitsch-bent pcb
USB audio (still in mail)
Small Speaker
Arduino Pro Micro (broke my first one, new one in mail)
USB port
-Charging circuit/step up circuit
Micro USB port-
Now using powerboost!
BW screen
2x psp joysticks
Clear cartridge shell
Lots of hot glue sticks
3d printed parts (screen bracket, button holder, button guides, screen jig)


So far I have stripped the pi 3 (check out Eccho's GREAT guide), tested my case mods on an old DMG, and set up Retropie settings. I really liked sotasystems build, and plan to use the psp joystick guide he made (I had it working till I bricked the pro micro)

I want to thank HoolyHoo for his awesome 3d printed parts, moooarcuuuus for the same, Wermy for starting everything, sotasystems for guides, and Chedda for the excellent Pi 3 pad pin-out. (pad-out?) Will update with pictures soon!

Waiting for pics

No pics yet (sorry) but last night I did carve out the battery compartment and test fit pads. The cutting of my nes pads were uneven, so I ordered some GB pads. My 3d printer (a printrbot play) is out of commission for a broken hotend. I'm trying to print my parts somewhere else, but no luck so far. I'll try and post pictures tonight, and then post more when I get some parts printed.

Here are some pictures of the stripped Pi 3! I went the I-Don't-Trust-Myself-With-An-Iron route and removed the metal casing on the ports with my flush cutters, clipped each pin down, then removed the plastic interior and trimmed the pins very short. Because I went this route, however, I'm using the pads for data. Thanks again Chedda! I removed camera and display ports by using the cutters to remove the plastic outside and desoldering/triming each pin. I covered both in electrical tape and accidentally ripped of a few pads, but thorough testing showed that the pi worked fine. I did basically the same thing for GPIO. I just cut really hard, removed plastic, and desoldered/trimmed. I did nothing to the HDMI, because i'm not skilled enough to go anywhere near that thing. I found a way to get my parts printed, so more updates coming (at least by Sunday). I may do a post about the general outline of my build in the next few days (I love it when build logs have those)

Yes, that is a Pokemon card in the background.

My parts are being printed, and I can update more later today. Right now I wanted to do a general outline of my build: I wanted to use a pi 3 for the extra power so I can play n64 games on the go. This is my second gb build, but my first was awful- I wasn't using real tools, I had a hack saw, some screwdrivers, a broken soldering iron, and a hot glue gun. That was it. I did everything on the floor of my garage. As you can imagine, this didn't work out. I eventually trashed the case and just kept the parts. That's why this build was so inciting-I ordered about 40$ worth of stuff off kitsch-bent and already had the screen, battery, and my pi 3 (that was the one for personal use). I had a broken GB I bought for 15 dollars, so I've been testing mods out on it.

Anyway, I want this build to be somewhat basic- a d-pad, an analog stick in the middle, and A/B/X/Y. I have some black SNES buttons I'll be using for L/R and some tactile buttons for L2/R2. I have a 5 position switch I was planning to use for C-buttons, but since I'm using a pro micro that won't work. I've heard a lot of people say that they never use the d-pad In n64 games, but one of my favorite n64 games is Kirby 64, which uses it primarily. I think I may have to put in another stick for c-buttons so I can play Ocarina and Majora's Mask. The problem here is that I really want a stick in the middle- If anyone has suggestions for ways around this, I'm open! I am using a traditional BW screen, a 2500 mah battery, and cheap powerboost alternative I found on ebay b/c power-boosts are expensiveeeeee. I know that 2500 mah is small, but I don't need it to last forever. *UPDATE-using a real powerboost now!* I'm using USB audio, trying to get volume control from in retropie so no pot, I have no headphone jack. (I only have Bluetooth headphones, so I don't have a need for a jack) That's basically the whole build! I'll update with pictures and updates later tonight!

Quick update-will add pictures/more info later. I subbed my cheap power-boost for a real one, finished face mods, mounted the holder for my joystick and x/y buttons, cut out the screen, and mounted my USB port, power-boost, screen, speaker, and power/ground rail. Stay tuned!

I have Pictures! So far I've
-Done all case mods (except L and R buttons)
-Installed screen and flipped it in software (used HoolyHoo's bracket)
-Glued in x/y/psp joystick bracket
-Glued in psp joystick and wired it up
-Wired controls to Leonardo, used micro-USB adapter to connect to pi
-Stripped and installed Pi
-Installed battery and power-boost
-Installed power switch
-Added power and ground board (homeade)
-Installed speaker
I still have to
-Wire up USB audio (already have board stripped and wires attached)
-Attach all my USB wires and 2 remaining power wires
-Close up the case

Here are some more pictures!

I just finished wiring up and screwing up the case, and realized some of my wiring is causing the pi to be at a power warning. I've identified the problem, and will get to fixing it soon.

TheHappiestBug wrote: ↑

Fri Nov 17, 2017 6:11 am

I just finished wiring up and screwing up the case, and realized some of my wiring is causing the pi to be at a power warning. I've identified the problem, and will get to fixing it soon.

Err, normally the power warming occurs when your power supply (booster or battery) cannot supply enough current... are you sure this is a cable related issue ?