ADS1015 Battery monitoring + Joystick connection

[gbjack]

Hi everyone,

Lately I've been trying to figure it out how to connect the ads1015 after reading on this forum and other sources how to monitor the battery and add analog sticks to the gameboy without needing an extra microcontroller.

I will my connect the system in the following way, tell me please if you see any errors:




It is safe to connect the battery directly to the VDD of the ads1015? By not having a switch between the VDD and battery +, will it drain the battery even when the system is turned off?

Where is recommender to connect the VCC pin of the psp/vita joystick? I've read that 5V is the best for reading stability, but I don't know where is better to connect it, it is ok to connect it directly to the tp4056 5V output, or maybe to the raspberry pi 5V pin?

If the ads1015 is powered by the 3,7V battery, will this affect to the readings of the 5V powered joystick? I'm talking about voltage references, for example, the joystick compares under 5V, and the ads1015 battery is reading values under 3,7v, I don't know if I explained myself correctly.

Also, I will use this thread to experiment and give feedback about this topic, I've used microcontrollers in the past succesfully but I think sometimes is a little bit overkill for having two simple analog readings.

[VeteranGamer]

try this....

https://github.com/Helder1981/OneForAll

111MVvih.jpg (307.3 KiB) Viewed 6997 times

just one thing to note (IMHO)
if your not using this for something like a RPi3 or equivalent....
then adding a analog stick is a bit overkill and pointless as most system/games don't require/need the use for one.....

if you are using this in a RPi3 type build....
then the TP4056 is useless as it wont be capable of powering everything up.....

best option would be to get this....

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=6421#p64217

it has enough power and also has the ADS build in which will save you the bother to figure out the wiring and make everything a lot easier...



.

[gbjack]

try this....

https://github.com/Helder1981/OneForAll



111MVvih.jpg





just one thing to note (IMHO)
if your not using this for something like a RPi3 or equivalent....
then adding a analog stick is a bit overkill and pointless as most system/games don't require/need the use for one.....

if you are using this in a RPi3 type build....
then the TP4056 is useless as it wont be capable of powering everything up.....

best option would be to get this....

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=6421#p64217

it has enough power and also has the ADS build in which will save you the bother to figure out the wiring and make everything a lot easier...



.

Thanks VeteranGamer,

The ads1015 problem is solved now that I've seen that the script can be adapted to the voltage reference of the analog inputs and knowing where to connect the ads1015's VCC, which I didn't like the idea of connecting it to the raw battery input in the first place for obvious reasons.

Now, approaching the powering issue that you pointed:

I've tried in the past the raspberry pi 3 B+ with the tp4056 module and worked fine even powering a SPI LCD screen and PWM audio output, but now I've realized that the output is only 1A, so it suprises me that it worked well in the first place. Now I'm working with the model A+ which fits better and seems to draw less power than the B+.

I really like the retropsu board and I will buy one probably, but I want to approach my builds with more generic components and boards that can be easily replaced and bought from everywhere cheaply like the typical blue tp4056 boards.

You've said the tp4056 is not powerful enough for the rpi3, but the retropsu uses it too, is the charging part of the board. What it changes from the typical blue board is the discharge part, allowing more discharging current through it I suppose.

I've found this board, I don't know if it will work:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2A-5V-Li-ion ... 3292205661

Looks compact, cheap and seems to be able to draw about 2,5A, which will be sufficient for the model A+ I think. If anyone knows of any power boost boards with more than 2A output will be really appreciated.

[VeteranGamer]

Now, approaching the powering issue that you pointed:

I've tried in the past the raspberry pi 3 B+ with the tp4056 module and worked fine even powering a SPI LCD screen and PWM audio output, but now I've realized that the output is only 1A, so it suprises me that it worked well in the first place. Now I'm working with the model A+ which fits better and seems to draw less power than the B+.

I really like the retropsu board and I will buy one probably, but I want to approach my builds with more generic components and boards that can be easily replaced and bought from everywhere cheaply like the typical blue tp4056 boards.

You've said the tp4056 is not powerful enough for the rpi3, but the retropsu uses it too, is the charging part of the board. What it changes from the typical blue board is the discharge part, allowing more discharging current through it I suppose.

I've found this board, I don't know if it will work:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2A-5V-Li-ion ... 3292205661

Looks compact, cheap and seems to be able to draw about 2,5A, which will be sufficient for the model A+ I think. If anyone knows of any power boost boards with more than 2A output will be really appreciated.

i appreciate that people may be on budgets....

and splashing out $20-30 on a board may seem a bit too much, especially when it seem possible alternatives are available at a fraction of the cost...
but Helder Retro PSU is nothing compared to the cheap $1 boards you can get off eBay/aliexpress
yes...
it may have a TP4056 chip....
but that's where the similarities end...

hes designed it specifically for these projects....
and can easily output 3A (its a beefed up version of everything else you've found/looked at on the net)....
plus you have the added bonus of the integrated ADS and pin outs for that analog stick (and a bit more)....


i've used it with a RPi3 B+ with a 7" HDMI LCD with USB audio and a audio amp with 2 x 4ohm speakers....
and never once has the lightening bolt ever appeared.....



i'm extremely surprised that you were able to power a RPi3 B+ with the TP4056 without having the lighting bolt flash up regularly
(that's NOT providing enough power)



if you feel that the TP4056 is good for you, then go for it
but you could also try the one you linked (on paper that should perform better than the TP4056)

you could also try one of these....
(just set it to around 5.2V)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2A-USB-Lithi ... 2749.l2649


and I'm sure there are others that will be providing better output than the basic 20-50cent TP4056 blue boards


at the end of the day....
opt for the route that suits you best.....


.

[Dawilson123]

I'm in the same dilemma.

I can't get the Helder board in the UK. Galaxy Gaming don't have it in stock, and like most other things from Helder, seem to very rarely have it in stock.

Looking for an alternative which is readily available to power a RPi 3A+. Don't mind waiting the few weeks for it to travel on a boat from China or Hong Kong.

[VeteranGamer]

I can't get the Helder board in the UK. Galaxy Gaming don't have it in stock, and like most other things from Helder, seem to very rarely have it in stock.

buy direct from Helder (he has plenty in stock)
(you'll get it fairly quick)


viewtopic.php?f=38&t=6421


its only the batteries that he wont send/dispatch overseas.....


theres NO excuses


.

[Helder]

The Tp4056 is only used to charge the batteries, believe it or not the Pi 3B is supposedly capable of being powered off of 3.3v and the battery usually delivers about 1500 mAh as max output so it can power some devices but if there is alot of draw it is unlikely to last long or will show the lightning bolt.

The 1A from the TP4056 is only relevant when the battery is being charged and you can't rely on it charging and playing since there is no way the battery can be charged and also power the pi 3B off of it since there is not enough amperage to power both. Using it in this method will only slow down the drain on the battery but not really fill it up.

[Dawilson123]

try this....

https://github.com/Helder1981/OneForAll



111MVvih.jpg





just one thing to note (IMHO)
if your not using this for something like a RPi3 or equivalent....
then adding a analog stick is a bit overkill and pointless as most system/games don't require/need the use for one.....

if you are using this in a RPi3 type build....
then the TP4056 is useless as it wont be capable of powering everything up.....

best option would be to get this....

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=6421#p64217

it has enough power and also has the ADS build in which will save you the bother to figure out the wiring and make everything a lot easier...



.

Fantastic, thanks for this. I'm going to use it on my build.