All in One PCB Support Thread

[Helder]

Do you have another pot to try? that one seems to be defective as when I tested my setup it went up and down fine and unfortunately the headphone is way loud compared to the speaker so you need to turn it down. not sure about the bad ground you're getting on the L and R though.

[doomydoomer]

Do you have another pot to try? that one seems to be defective as when I tested my setup it went up and down fine and unfortunately the headphone is way loud compared to the speaker so you need to turn it down. not sure about the bad ground you're getting on the L and R though.

I do have several pots laying around that I can swap in. This is the second pot I've tested but who knows, it could be defective. The volume adjustments are fine through the speaker however so again it's hard to imagine it being the issue. I have a feeling I might be tearing this all the way down and rebuilding. Part of me also thinks this IS a ground issue and it might be from the crappy reverse camera screen from Amazon. I'll do some testing this week/weekend and post back if I find anything new.

[Helder]

When you probe I'm assuming you mean you have an oscilloscope? probe the LCD board as you say and other Ground areas, you might to use a filter cap some where. If you had to 5V mod the LCD board how did you do it? on my screen I removed the regulator IC and bridged 2 pins this way there is no jumper wire and the power going in (5V) will go through all the filtering on board. I don't like the jumper wire method because it skips alot of power filtering.

[htrd]

anyone else having a problem with x button? . i have too hard press it like a old remote

the rubber comes out a little on the back of the screen. maybe that's part of whats causing it anyone got and idea?.




appreciate the help

[doomydoomer]

When you probe I'm assuming you mean you have an oscilloscope? probe the LCD board as you say and other Ground areas, you might to use a filter cap some where. If you had to 5V mod the LCD board how did you do it? on my screen I removed the regulator IC and bridged 2 pins this way there is no jumper wire and the power going in (5V) will go through all the filtering on board. I don't like the jumper wire method because it skips alot of power filtering.

I wish I had a oscilloscope. No, by probe I meant me accidentally touching the R out or L out with my finger and hearing an audible ground sound via the headphones. Which lead me to poke some more. I believe my screen is "Variant 7" from the sudomod wiki and here's the exact jumper mod I did:


Removing the IC and bridging is a great suggestion though I don't know what the second pin would be. You may have used a different screen than me but what two pins did you bridge? I'm not familiar with that method. I will say this about my screen currently - it looks awful. I know composite signal is low down on the quality pole, hell that's why I still own an SDTV for all my old consoles but if I'm matching native resolution the screen (320x240) it shouldn't look this bad. The screen has always had a fixed "ghosting" to it and that's not to say movement causes the ghosting. it looks more like if you over sharpened the image where light bleeds into dark. The top quarter of the screen also get's "noisy" when blacked out and viewed at an top downward angle. I just assumed shit screen was being shit haha but maybe there's more of an issue with the jumper like you said.

[doomydoomer]

anyone else having a problem with x button? . i have too hard press it like a old remote

the rubber comes out a little on the back of the screen. maybe that's part of whats causing it anyone got and idea?.




appreciate the help

No issues here with my X but I think you're onto the problem. If the screen is overlapping the button pad and no allowing it to lay flat, the conductive pad under X might not be completing the circuit well enough on press. If the X button "feels" different when you press it down, that's most likely the issue. You might have to realign the screen or trim the pad so it lays flat. If you trim, just be sure not to over due it or you'll have a similar issue.

[Helder]

anyone else having a problem with x button? . i have too hard press it like a old remote

the rubber comes out a little on the back of the screen. maybe that's part of whats causing it anyone got and idea?.




appreciate the help

Cut that rubber part off that over hangs onto the screen.

[Helder]

Removing the IC and bridging is a great suggestion though I don't know what the second pin would be. You may have used a different screen than me but what two pins did you bridge? I'm not familiar with that method. I will say this about my screen currently - it looks awful. I know composite signal is low down on the quality pole, hell that's why I still own an SDTV for all my old consoles but if I'm matching native resolution the screen (320x240) it shouldn't look this bad. The screen has always had a fixed "ghosting" to it and that's not to say movement causes the ghosting. it looks more like if you over sharpened the image where light bleeds into dark. The top quarter of the screen also get's "noisy" when blacked out and viewed at an top downward angle. I just assumed shit screen was being shit haha but maybe there's more of an issue with the jumper like you said.

Pins 1 and 2 will be what you need, look in the image:

[sckay]

anyone else having a problem with x button? . i have too hard press it like a old remote

the rubber comes out a little on the back of the screen. maybe that's part of whats causing it anyone got and idea?.




appreciate the help

With this configuration, the audio run good? I dont know if the port are run if you use a Bridge in the L in, L out...

[doomydoomer]

Well, I found the potential issue. The L Out pad lifted. Not my first lifted pad so I'm not panicking. What's a good relocation for L Out, Cap 5?