All in One PCB Support Thread

[rogersouza]

@Helder

Hello, everyone.

I've just got my PCB but I don't have my volume wheel yet.
Can I still get sound on the speaker without it?

Finally, based on my pic, which config should I use when I get the volume wheel?
Can you see any mistakes on my wiring?

- dtoverlay=pwm-2chan,pin=18,func=2,pin2=13,func2=4

- dtoverlay=pwm,pin=18,func=2

- dtoverlay=pwm,pin=13,func=4

Or another one?

Thanks a lot

[Helder]

The last post only helped the choppy sounds actually include some music but still extremely choppy again when I press on c7 it starts playing again but this time I had it playing very well then it got really choppy again.. is there somewhere I can jump c7 to, to test or bridge the circuit in case it's broken or something? I believe this would fix the issue I'm having.

I'm beginning to think that the capacitor there might be the wrong value that the factory soldered on. So is there a better working channel of audio or are both not working?

@helder

Im getting choppy sound when I use the battery power that is wired as you previously provided to correct the damage I caused to the board. When I plug power directly into the picture zero it isn't choppy. Any suggestions?

Be sure your powerboard is outputting enough voltage and current to power everything. Speaking of which, which power board are you using?

@Helder

Hello, everyone.

I've just got my PCB but I don't have my volume wheel yet.
Can I still get sound on the speaker without it?

Finally, based on my pic, which config should I use when I get the volume wheel?
Can you see any mistakes on my wiring?

- dtoverlay=pwm-2chan,pin=18,func=2,pin2=13,func2=4

- dtoverlay=pwm,pin=18,func=2

- dtoverlay=pwm,pin=13,func=4

Or another one?

Thanks a lot

I answered the speaker issues numerous times in this thread and it's probably 5 pages back so have a look for the jumper wires you need to do.

First post also has the config.txt plus the exact line to use for PWM audio which should be the first line above.

[Xorfora]

I changed my settings to mono to try and fix, and it didn't help, I've jumped my speakers to the alternate outputs and it's so quiet I can't hear it but if I listen very close I can tell it's clear but again it can barely be heard. I have a video of me touching the capacitor and it working perfect.

https://youtu.be/TWJTDzHWzjA

[enemone]

@helder

I am using the Adafruit PowerBoost 1000 Charger - Rechargeable 5V Lipo USB Boost @ 1A - 1000C

I will check the voltage output tonight to see if its all powering up correctly.

https://www.adafruit.com/products/2465

@helder

Im getting choppy sound when I use the battery power that is wired as you previously provided to correct the damage I caused to the board. When I plug power directly into the picture zero it isn't choppy. Any suggestions?

Be sure your powerboard is outputting enough voltage and current to power everything. Speaking of which, which power board are you using?

[blameblaine]

Still needing some help with this audio issue. I'm not entirely sure how to check for shorts with a multimeter. Could someone give me some instruction on how to do so???

I also accidently pressed my finger up against the c7 capacitor while the unit was on and running and it made the hissing stop. With that information I'm assuming it would be a short. But again don't know how to check. Can anybody help with the information provided about how to find it or because of the capacitor.

Please help @Helder! This is the only thing I need to fix for the project to be done!

Could be a cold solder joint, try reheating each side of the capacitor on C7 and see if that fixes it.

@helder

The newest board just arrived, and I've completed another build with the vga screen! I have one question about the board and the button presses. When pressing almost all of the buttons, they seem slightly unresponsive. To get actions to occur, I have to make sure to press down hard to guarantee a response. Have you heard of this issue before? I've looked all over the forums, but I never see anything about the responsiveness of the button presses.

I'll try to just clean the board and buttons with isopropyl alcohol, but please advise on any other methods!

Thanks for everything!

I replied to you in a PM but to those wondering it's likely the button membranes on the X and Y overhanging into the screen frame, most people cut a part of the top of the membrane to fix this issue.

because my aio 2.0 gamepad disconnects after 5 minutes while playing?

Try Retropie 4.02 and also what power supply board and battery are you using? Could be dips in power that causes a disconnect and also excessive heat near the Atmega32u4 chip.

@Helder

Ok, so I tried cutting the membrane pads down so there's no interference while pushing the buttons. I also tried wiping the pads and board with isopropyl alcohol where they come intact with each other. I even tried a different version of retropie. All those options don't really help the responsiveness. This is really odd since it affects every button press, including the d-pad and start and select buttons. And just to re-iterate what I'm noticing, the buttons work but I have to give it a nice firm press for it to register. That is unlike any of the older builds I have done. A couple of those builds used your "fixed" boards. This is with the new board that was just mailed out.

I think I'll just try adding the cmdline and config.txt files from the first page, and if that doesn't work I'll try to de-solder and re-solder the wires to the other new board that I got from you since I ordered 2!

Unless you have any other suggestions, I'll continue with those two items and get back to you. Should be pretty simple to change the board to the other one.

[Helder]

Still needing some help with this audio issue. I'm not entirely sure how to check for shorts with a multimeter. Could someone give me some instruction on how to do so???

I also accidently pressed my finger up against the c7 capacitor while the unit was on and running and it made the hissing stop. With that information I'm assuming it would be a short. But again don't know how to check. Can anybody help with the information provided about how to find it or because of the capacitor.

Please help @Helder! This is the only thing I need to fix for the project to be done!

Could be a cold solder joint, try reheating each side of the capacitor on C7 and see if that fixes it.

@helder

The newest board just arrived, and I've completed another build with the vga screen! I have one question about the board and the button presses. When pressing almost all of the buttons, they seem slightly unresponsive. To get actions to occur, I have to make sure to press down hard to guarantee a response. Have you heard of this issue before? I've looked all over the forums, but I never see anything about the responsiveness of the button presses.

I'll try to just clean the board and buttons with isopropyl alcohol, but please advise on any other methods!

Thanks for everything!

I replied to you in a PM but to those wondering it's likely the button membranes on the X and Y overhanging into the screen frame, most people cut a part of the top of the membrane to fix this issue.

because my aio 2.0 gamepad disconnects after 5 minutes while playing?

Try Retropie 4.02 and also what power supply board and battery are you using? Could be dips in power that causes a disconnect and also excessive heat near the Atmega32u4 chip.

@Helder

Ok, so I tried cutting the membrane pads down so there's no interference while pushing the buttons. I also tried wiping the pads and board with isopropyl alcohol where they come intact with each other. I even tried a different version of retropie. All those options don't really help the responsiveness. This is really odd since it affects every button press, including the d-pad and start and select buttons. And just to re-iterate what I'm noticing, the buttons work but I have to give it a nice firm press for it to register. That is unlike any of the older builds I have done. A couple of those builds used your "fixed" boards. This is with the new board that was just mailed out.

I think I'll just try adding the cmdline and config.txt files from the first page, and if that doesn't work I'll try to de-solder and re-solder the wires to the other new board that I got from you since I ordered 2!

Unless you have any other suggestions, I'll continue with those two items and get back to you. Should be pretty simple to change the board to the other one.

I would try to reprogram the board first before desoldering a ton of things which could damage the board.

[blameblaine]

@Helder

Reprogramming the board, would that be in this thread? Sorry if it's easy to find, but could you just guide me real quick? Thanks!

[Helder]

Reprogramming the board, would that be in this thread? Sorry if it's easy to find, but could you just guide me real quick? Thanks!

http://www.sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=1176

be sure to read the entire thread as there is some important info in the middle and end of the thread.

[Xorfora]

@Helder I sent you a PM but it doesnt look like its going through. Was you able to watch the video to see what I mean about C7?

[Helder]

@Helder I sent you a PM but it doesnt look like its going through. Was you able to watch the video to see what I mean about C7?

Please have a little patience I have tons of PMs to go through daily and I'm now sitting down to look at things. I will have a response for you later or early tomorrow.