Screen bracket with shoulder button standoff in middle screw holes.

[jakejm79]

So in a quest to eliminate as many wires as possible between the two halves of the case on my most recent build I mounted the shoulder buttons (tact switches) on some standoffs on the screw posts on Hoolyhoo's screen bracket.
For the next build I modified the STL so I don't have to glue extra pieces onto the bracket.

Disclaimer I am still waiting on some of these from 3dHubs so I haven't tested and this is my first time doing anything like this. I also removed the little bit of material in the cut outs of the button wells, I find that I normally cut these out anyway, it lets the buttons sit a little higher in the holes.

All credit to HoolyHoo for the original STL.

[jakejm79]

So my prints arrived today. I have tweaked the STL, made one large oversight on the underside that has been fixed also I have adjusted it for 6x6x11mm tact switches, the 9mm high ones I have on hand and had designed the original bracket around required extra modification to the inside of the back of the case (at the center screw holes), these taller switches should offer a little more clearance. Also I shifted the standoffs a bit, but that might be due to the aftermarket case rather than the STL being wrong, we will see in the future. Also modified around the USB port, this should reduce the need to cut the back part of the case around the upper left (when looking at the back) screw hole.

[sixteenbit]

I'm really liking this bracket. I have an older build that I've been wanting to redo. Printed the bracket and seems to work so far. Waiting on a new case to install everything though.

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I've somewhat tested it in some other cases i have but they aren't fully cut. I'll let you know if I run into anything or ways you could make it better.

[jakejm79]

Great, depending on the case I have had to often tweak the position of the buttons on the stands a little, I just cut the little 1mm walls on whatever side to allow a little more movement. I think it will come down to a case by case (no pun) basis since not all the aftermarket cases are created equal. What size (height) tact switches did you use.

[sixteenbit]

Great, depending on the case I have had to often tweak the position of the buttons on the stands a little, I just cut the little 1mm walls on whatever side to allow a little more movement. I think it will come down to a case by case (no pun) basis since not all the aftermarket cases are created equal. What size (height) tact switches did you use.

I have an assortment but I was going to try what you recommended, the 11mm tall switches. My case should be here Friday but I may cut one of these other cases later today just to see how everything fits.

[jakejm79]

Yes I had originally designed it for 9mm ones I believe and due to the shorter nubs they have to sit to close to the case and with the case being curved there didn't really work too well (needed a lot of cutting). I redsigned it with 11mm in mind and those should work much better, you still need to cut/drill away the cylindrical wall that the screw would sit in but I didn't have to mill extra material away from the curved area.
I really need to get a 3D printer so I can prototype and design has I go, currently I have 3Dhubs print a few and then make not of what adjustments I need and change the design and then wait till I need to print more.

[sixteenbit]

Yes I had originally designed it for 9mm ones I believe and due to the shorter nubs they have to sit to close to the case and with the case being curved there didn't really work too well (needed a lot of cutting). I redsigned it with 11mm in mind and those should work much better, you still need to cut/drill away the cylindrical wall that the screw would sit in but I didn't have to mill extra material away from the curved area.
I really need to get a 3D printer so I can prototype and design has I go, currently I have 3Dhubs print a few and then make not of what adjustments I need and change the design and then wait till I need to print more.

I'll work with you to prototype this and when we get it to where we want it, I can ship you out some prints.

[sixteenbit]

Cut an old case I'm not planning to use to see how the tactile buttons line up.

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IMG_0809.jpg (2.26 MiB) Viewed 11108 times

This is with 11mm. I'll most likely go with a little bit shorter button.

USB is pushing the case a little bit. The issue is the backside of the case.

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Shaving that notch down some might help.

Update:

I've slightly updated the stl but mainly for personal preference. The screen board I'm using needs a little more room to sit on the back of the screen.

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Screen Shot 2018-02-08 at 4.53.39 PM.png (2.42 MiB) Viewed 11069 times

SNESPlus Shoulder Modified 11mm-sixteenbit.stl

(118.54 KiB) Downloaded 950 times

[jakejm79]

Thanks for the work. It seems to depend on the USB port that you use if the back of the case needs cutting or not. Also how well (and what) you use to attach the bracket to the front of the case can make a difference, i.e. if you use hot glue or thick double sided tape the bracket wont sit quite as low and that has the knock on effect of raising all the components attached to it - USB socket and tact switches for example.

How did you find the X/Y alignment of the posts for L/R buttons I had tweaked it a little from the initial one (I think you printed the tweaked version).

How many mm do you think the tact switches sit too high, ideally I think you'd want them to sit about 0.5mm lower than the flat back part of the case in the unpressed position so you could lie the GBZ on its back and not worry about the L/R buttons getting pressed - I just don't want to recess them too much and make them hard to press.

I could lower the height of the USB bracket but I'm not sure if it would then line up with the EXT port opening on the outside.

[sixteenbit]

I finished out the build i was working on with a few updates to the bracket. Most of my changes are more subjective though and dependent on this build.

I do think the tact switches are fine, just leave it to the end user to decide what length they want. I used 9mm ones. 10mm may be better though. I just like mine a little closer to the case. I did have some issues closing the case without having the L/R click properly. I'm not sure if they're too spread apart or what but I'm going to test some more later. I was able to get it closed but I'm not tightening the bottom screws all the way which gives the switches enough room to be used.

As for the USB I just cut the case a bit to allow for the usb to sit and I'm using a cartridge I printed to cover that up.

Here's pics of my build and the updated stl.

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Edit:
Forgot to add the STL file. Still a WIP right now though.

Bracket (1).stl

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