I have been working on this on and off for the past few weeks. I haven't really kept a log, but once I get everything figured out I will try to log it from start to finish. Because of this, this is more of a showcase. It is also important to note that I'm a complete noob when it comes to electronics! This was all done by reading through many forums, taking notes and just going at it.
Items used:
- Pi 3
-BW 3.5 screen
-Helder's AIO 2.2
-Micro JST ( not recommended for final build)
-Snes controller for buttons
-Potentiometer wheel
-Powerboost
-micro usb breakout board
-slide switch (on/off switch)
-Samsung S4 2600 mah battery (I will use a better batter for my final build)
This is the work I have completed so far.
For my gameboy build I wanted to go with a white case and Snes color themed buttons. However, after testing this case I concluded that it gets too dirty, too fast. A black case and different buttons will be used for my final build. For the screen protector I made one using the cover of the original screen case (idea from Chiz). This screen protector is just for my prototype build. I have a screen from dominator waiting for my final build.
[spoiler="White Gameboy pi 3 with Snes buttons"] [/spoiler]
The main benefit of using a pi3 is the ability to play some Nintendo 64 games.
[spoiler="Zelda running on pi3"] [/spoiler]
Note: I have not yet figured out how to get audio using Helders AIO and the pi3. Suggestions are welcomed
The screen frame and button well print came in very very useful. I'm surprised not many people use it in their builds! Since this is just my prototype, I'm using micro JST cables for testing purposes. In my final build, however, I will use thicker wires for my power circuitry.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1815950
[spoiler="Internals"] [/spoiler]
It is no secret that the pi3 and powerboost tend to warm up during use. To alleviate this I attempted to add fans to my build (sorry, no pictures). However, I couldn't find small effective fans. My next idea was to add some ventilation holes and vent openings to allow cooler air to flow in and out. For the side vents I glue a piece of a PCI Slot Cover bracket on the inside to give it a better look. I need to work on carving those vents out.
[spoiler="Ventillation holes and vents"] [/spoiler]
I also wanted to add a second usb port to my build. I made this square hole on the side to achieve this. I'm still debating whether or not to add this to my final build.
[spoiler="Usb port side hole"] [/spoiler]
Future work. Suggestions are very welcome!
-Figure out a way to add audio to the pi 3
- L&R buttons
-Implement a joy stick to the build. For this I believe I have to reprogram Helder's AIO board.
-Implement a cooling method
-Hide the pi 3 inside a game cartridge
-Implement the setting buttons from the screen neatly somewhere
-Use magnets to close the battery compartment
It is also possible I might scrap this idea and just add the new pi zero w to this build since Kites board is hopefully on its way to my desk
Thank you! If you have any suggestions of questions please post them!
Pi 3 build using Helder's AIO 2.2
- VeteranGamer
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Re: Pi 3 build using Helder's AIO 2.2
it looks good so far.... i like the thinking behind the build
i'm also using that frame the main reason is that i'm aiming for a no hot glue build (epoxy and vhb tape).... i personally found that the button holes dont line up well with helders AIO so i've scrapped those and am gonna incorporate the wermy wells to the frame
i'm also experimenting with jst connectors, using a combination of PH and XH, so far i'm still persuing with them but its a tight squeeze (but gonna try and figure it out) but i want them in the final build.... depending on which type the awg can range from 30-22 which for the GBZ is fine
i'm a bit surprised about the N64 as most games just wont run well and for this handheld its just ends up being a bit of a gimmick, personally i would opt for the pi zero w the space you will save willl come in handy.... and you wont need to make so many vent holes
also the controller you used was it an official or clone... as someone on this forum is trying to source a set (famicom style)
but coming along nicely.... looking forward to the progress
i'm also using that frame the main reason is that i'm aiming for a no hot glue build (epoxy and vhb tape).... i personally found that the button holes dont line up well with helders AIO so i've scrapped those and am gonna incorporate the wermy wells to the frame
i'm also experimenting with jst connectors, using a combination of PH and XH, so far i'm still persuing with them but its a tight squeeze (but gonna try and figure it out) but i want them in the final build.... depending on which type the awg can range from 30-22 which for the GBZ is fine
i'm a bit surprised about the N64 as most games just wont run well and for this handheld its just ends up being a bit of a gimmick, personally i would opt for the pi zero w the space you will save willl come in handy.... and you wont need to make so many vent holes
also the controller you used was it an official or clone... as someone on this forum is trying to source a set (famicom style)
but coming along nicely.... looking forward to the progress
Re: Pi 3 build using Helder's AIO 2.2
Thank you for your reply
I had the same issues with the button wells. However, I just modified the wells in order for the buttons to slide up and down easily.
[spoiler="button well mod"] [/spoiler]
For the SNES controller I got this replica one for about $5usd
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Controller- ... 5d5ea68e6b
I'm with you, but I really want to play Legend of Zelda on my portable
Good luck on your build!
I had the same issues with the button wells. However, I just modified the wells in order for the buttons to slide up and down easily.
[spoiler="button well mod"] [/spoiler]
For the SNES controller I got this replica one for about $5usd
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Controller- ... 5d5ea68e6b
I'm with you, but I really want to play Legend of Zelda on my portable
Good luck on your build!
- derebbe
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Re: Pi 3 build using Helder's AIO 2.2
@[mention]Francis[/mention] A tip from my side: the powerboost 1000c and also the pi3 are getting really hot, especially the powerboost during charging the battery. Maybe you should consider to put the powerboost at the very top of your shell and put some wholes/mesh into the plastic, so the hot air can flow out of the case. I also put some little heatsinks on each of the powerboost chips, as well as on the PIs CPU...
Re: Pi 3 build using Helder's AIO 2.2
Thanks for that tip! I have been looking for heatsinks and small fans for my build. I will definitely consider moving it up there like you're suggesting.derebbe wrote:@[mention]Francis[/mention] A tip from my side: the powerboost 1000c and also the pi3 are getting really hot, especially the powerboost during charging the battery. Maybe you should consider to put the powerboost at the very top of your shell and put some wholes/mesh into the plastic, so the hot air can flow out of the case. I also put some little heatsinks on each of the powerboost chips, as well as on the PIs CPU...
Re: Pi 3 build using Helder's AIO 2.2
Yes, I posted a link in the first post, but here you go!htbrdd wrote:Is there an stl for the screen and button wells? Thanks
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1815950
- BazzJay
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Re: Pi 3 build using Helder's AIO 2.2
How did you wire your aio to the pi3, im doing a similar build and my pi isnt detecting the gamepad.
Ive wired it to the pis usb 1 and nothings working.
Ive wired it to the pis usb 1 and nothings working.
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