Looking for a 54 pin 0.5mm fpc breakout board

[Hex]

Is there a brightness control support to this?

Also from where do you get the components to populate the pcb?

[Helder]

It was a quick & dirty proof of concept.. (the routing is testament to that) to test DPI configs. The schematic is copied from the adafruit tft-friend board, hence 3.3v. It's basic, but it works.

No 24 bit version as I'm using the CM3 for that.. feel free to modify & share.

Pretty dirty as I can see it was made with the auto router feature, not complaining but I see some things that the DRC brought up and I also hate the auto router putting vias right next to the pin header solder holes which is so easy to short them to the wrong GPIo because of the via there.

Anyways the reason for this post is that I fixed all the routing that had these vias and also fixed some other clearance issues and this board can now be used in pretty much any fabricator including OSHPark (for those who like to use them) and I fixed the board shape as it was also skewed but is square now. How is your progress on your CM3 design?

Is there a brightness control support to this?

Also from where do you get the components to populate the pcb?

Mouser or Digikey will provide those easily although if Mattc has a specific place he got them maybe he can post the links to the parts.

[Hex]

@Helder So basically varying the voltage to the LCD (24V) allows for varying brightness?

Even I was working on the PCB. I modified it for a 24 bit.

[tinkerBOY]

It works fine with that voltage.

The LSB of the LCD is tied to the MSB so you get true black/white... I've had 24 bit running and can't honestly tell the difference. You also have some GPIO left over to do 'other stuff' with.

SpoilerShow

hi guys! Im just wondering how you solder those tiny parts like the fpc connector? What do you use? Do you assemble them yourself or do you just let the pcb maker assemble it for you?

[Im2nelson4u]

I use a very clean fine tip, flux, and very bright light. You can also use solder paste and a hot air solder. You can also just flux it and use a solder blob drag it across all the pins and clean up with solder wick or a clean solder tip.

https://youtu.be/b9FC9fAlfQE?t=1210

[Hex]

@mattc could you possibly make a video of the screen working? Is there any recommended place to get the parts?

[tinkerBOY]

I use a very clean fine tip, flux, and very bright light. You can also use solder paste and a hot air solder. You can also just flux it and use a solder blob drag it across all the pins and clean up with solder wick or a clean solder tip.

https://youtu.be/b9FC9fAlfQE?t=1210

Thanks! I have a soldering iron ready, and waiting for the hot air i bought on ali. Im also wondering what solder to use and flux too, any link?

[mattc]

Pretty dirty as I can see it was made with the auto router feature, not complaining but I see some things that the DRC brought up and I also hate the auto router putting vias right next to the pin header solder holes which is so easy to short them to the wrong GPIo because of the via there.

Ha-Ha... you spotted it

I hand routed the back light driver, then just let it rip with eagles dreadful auto router. Yes, those vias are horrendous

If I find the time I'll loop back at some point and tidy this up.

[Helder]

Well I fixed them in the my previous post but it's nowhere near being perfect but it's at least less prone to shorts and the 3.3v lines might need a little beefing up too which I haven't done.

Using the Gerber files You can get cheap stencils made in China or one of my preferred places right here in the USA OSH Stencils.

[mattc]

@mattc could you possibly make a video of the screen working? Is there any recommended place to get the parts?

Try this link for the parts:

https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/P ... 7bd4765049