Button Not Working After Continuity Test

[tommyalkhoury]

Hi there, I am nearly done my MintyPi, however, I am having a few issues...

After testing all of my pins for continuity and testing the adjacent pinholes, everything seems to be working fine. However, when using the menu, my up button is not working at all, whereas everything else is working fine. I am not sure if my solder (though being 25W) damaged the raspberry pi's pinhole.

After updating my mintyPi, all I am getting is a white screen everytime I boot it up.

[Helder]

Well things just don't get messed up for no reason so what did you do and was the mintyPi turned on when you dud continuity tests? If the mintyPi was updated and all you get is a white screen did you wait long enough to have the image turn black? you could always do a reflash of the original image back onto the SD card.

Alot of this sounds like you have weak solder joints and some may have broken even though they "look" good.

[tommyalkhoury]

Hi helder, thanks for the reply. I always do the continuity tests with the mintypi off. I have already reflashed the mintypi, and it turns on fine. However, I do not get the "mintypi" startup screen
I get the retropie, emulation station, startup screens, etc. Therefore, I do not know if my speaker works. Before, i noticed if I pressed the up button, the screen would get affected (would look like it was getting distorted). However this is not happening anymore. Solder problem?

[Helder]

Man oh man not sure how often I have to say that the Startup logo is no longer being used so that is normal. I would reflow the GPIO around the UP GPIO including the UP GPIO, load a game onto the SD card to test audio.

[tommyalkhoury]

Hi, I tried reflowing the GPIO and had result different every time. The screen was doing different things everytime. It does seem like a soldering issue. I am relatively new to soldering, any tips on reflowing?

[VeteranGamer]

Hi, I tried reflowing the GPIO and had result different every time. The screen was doing different things everytime. It does seem like a soldering issue. I am relatively new to soldering, any tips on reflowing?

please have a look at this....
(specifically from around 2:30 in)







.

[tommyalkhoury]

Thanks for the response VeteranGamer, however, even after reflowing multiple times, my UP button persists to have this problem. I just realized that I have bridged a pin, however it's continuous when I press pretty hard on both adjacent pins. It is on both 14 pins, however one pin is a dud (not connected to any button). The other is the L button. None others are bridged.

[tommyalkhoury]

Just an update: I managed to resolve all screen issues, and updating works like a charm now. However, I am still experiencing a problem with my up button even after reflowing many times. Here are a couple of pictures of my raspberry pi:

mintypi2.jpg (3.54 MiB) Viewed 3889 times

mintypi1.jpg (4.31 MiB) Viewed 3889 times

[Helder]

Well it looks like one of the traces is dead on one or looks like 2 of the GPIO, one being the Hall sensor thus not allowing you to use the safe shutdown feature of closing the lid with the magnet and the other being up. The GPIO annular ring looks totally burned off but it might still be fixable if you scrape a little of the trace and use some flux to solder some thin like magnet wire thin wire to the center of that solder in the GPIO hole to the trace.

Look at the image here then compare to yours above to see the damage:

[tommyalkhoury]

Hmm I see, so I would need to scrape the trace around both GPIOs (scrape the circumference of both GPIOs after removing the solder) to clean up debris. Then I would have to improvise an annular ring by attaching a thin metallic wire across the circumference of the annular rings to "repair" the one that's burned off. Then soldering again MIGHT work. Is this correct?
Here is a better photo of that section. I noticed that the "Possible Broken Trace" looks ok, as I see the copper wire is still in tact.

20190724_161056.jpg (3.42 MiB) Viewed 3880 times