[FOR SALE] Common Ground Button PCBs (+X, Y, L1, L2, R1, R2) [WORLDWIDE]

[codacious]

Do the screw holes for this pcb match up in the original gameboy and the custom cases you sell on your site?

yep! they do. there is one mounting post on the case which will be removed when the X/Y holes are drilled, and it was taken off the PCB as well.

but, yes, they are a match. our shells and the originals are entirely internally compatible.

Thanks for your quick response! I'd hate to cut one up but I do love your custom cases!

[3y3c0ugh]

Has anyone bought one and implemented it yet into their gbz? I'm very interested in purchasing this PCB, but from looking at the picture, it looks like the X/Y buttons are well above the A/B, compared to where mine are laid out. It could be that I'm looking at mine with the buttons in and everything screwed together. Heres what mine looks like now, I had plenty of room for the screen:


I'm just worried that with this board the X/Y might be too far above the A/B and interfere with where the screen would be. Anyone know?

[Retrohead95]

Has anyone bought one and implemented it yet into their gbz? I'm very interested in purchasing this PCB, but from looking at the picture, it looks like the X/Y buttons are well above the A/B, compared to where mine are laid out. It could be that I'm looking at mine with the buttons in and everything screwed together. Heres what mine looks like now, I had plenty of room for the screen:


I'm just worried that with this board the X/Y might be too far above the A/B and interfere with where the screen would be. Anyone know?

Wow, didn't notice this until you pointed it out. The board just got released so I doubt anyone had already tinkered with it(except for @kitch-Ben of course). My x and y buttons are laid out similar to yours so I'm guessing the buttons are too far up for me to use. Since I already ordered it and it has the points for l2 and r2 I'm determined to get it to work and would be a bummer if what you said were true. I'll report back when it arrives

[kitsch-bent]

the PCB from the github people are remaking here is 16mm, center-to-center, for the A/X and B/Y buttons,

the one I have available is 17mm center-to-center, to facilitate the silicone membranes between the two pairs of buttons (A/X and B/Y) without the need to trim the silicone membranes at all. both the original membrane types and the 'full' silicone buttons we carry in the shop. with mounting pin holes.

the highest point on my version is 2.25mm taller, but if this difference is really problematic in where your LCD PCB comes down, it can be cut (via dremel) very easily and there is only one trace up there which will bring it below the height of the other board without impacting the trace.

that is... if the LCD PCB and the button PCB are even on the same plane.

in short..... shouldn't be an issue.

[Retrohead95]

the PCB from the github people are remaking here is 16mm, center-to-center, for the A/X and B/Y buttons,

the one I have available is 17mm center-to-center, to facilitate the silicone membranes between the two pairs of buttons (A/X and B/Y) without the need to trim the silicone membranes at all. both the original membrane types and the 'full' silicone buttons we carry in the shop. with mounting pin holes.

the highest point on my version is 2.25mm taller, but if this difference is really problematic in where your LCD PCB comes down, it can be cut (via dremel) very easily and there is only one trace up there which will bring it below the height of the other board without impacting the trace.

that is... if the LCD PCB and the button PCB are even on the same plane.

in short..... shouldn't be an issue.

Thanks for clarifying. I picked one up .

[kitsch-bent]

i'll create a new thread when these are in the shop... but, i had a moment before i went to sleep to play around with this for a bit. fits nicely into the half-front shell already in the shop, and the card itself seems to have fine clearance to get in/out. i am thinking the full-front shell will work fine too, if you don't plan to remove the card very often. but i just need to double-check clearance before i say one way or another...

anywho.... here goes. dubbed 'kk_gb_zero_a'. will use our regular cartridge manufacturer/specs for this, and intend to have assembled and non-assembled types. socket isn't too pricy, and feels good and holds well.

kk_gb_zero_a.jpg (1.99 MiB) Viewed 10765 times

[Rod2D2]

i'll create a new thread when these are in the shop... but, i had a moment before i went to sleep to play around with this for a bit. fits nicely into the half-front shell already in the shop, and the card itself seems to have fine clearance to get in/out. i am thinking the full-front shell will work fine too, if you don't plan to remove the card very often. but i just need to double-check clearance before i say one way or another...

anywho.... here goes. dubbed 'kk_gb_zero_a'. will use our regular cartridge manufacturer/specs for this, and intend to have assembled and non-assembled types. socket isn't too pricy, and feels good and holds well.

kk_gb_zero_a.jpg

Seems like something similar to what another member on here made recently. I think this would work well however I think if the card reader was more off to the side it would work best so the card could be removed when needed. Most are ok with modifying the cartridge shell in order to access the sd card. Not sure if that's possible for you to manufacture but just a thought. Also how much would these cost assembled with no shell?

[kitsch-bent]

i'll create a new thread when these are in the shop... but, i had a moment before i went to sleep to play around with this for a bit. fits nicely into the half-front shell already in the shop, and the card itself seems to have fine clearance to get in/out. i am thinking the full-front shell will work fine too, if you don't plan to remove the card very often. but i just need to double-check clearance before i say one way or another...

anywho.... here goes. dubbed 'kk_gb_zero_a'. will use our regular cartridge manufacturer/specs for this, and intend to have assembled and non-assembled types. socket isn't too pricy, and feels good and holds well.

kk_gb_zero_a.jpg

Seems like something similar to what another member on here made recently. I think this would work well however I think if the card reader was more off to the side it would work best so the card could be removed when needed. Most are ok with modifying the cartridge shell in order to access the sd card. Not sure if that's possible for you to manufacture but just a thought. Also how much would these cost assembled with no shell?

would not be an issue at all. will just do two versions of this. one as-is, one off to the edge, then the end-user can determine which works best for their setup. i would imagine some people will rarely be removing them and may wish to leave the shell intact, which is why i approached it this way (then, this behavior would determine more simply whether to use a full-front shell or a half-front shell). but, your suggestions are most welcomed! will lay this out in a couple hours and get it in on the same shipment to not add any delay.

don't know price just yet, i'm negotiating the sockets in bulk and that is still the unknown variable in all this...

[jlane52641]

20160514_154457.jpg (4.68 MiB) Viewed 10717 times

Look what came in the mail today! Thanks kb!!

[mgsickler]

[mention]kitsch-bent[/mention] Any chance you could release a printable template for drilling the holes?