chiz's GB Pi2

[Rod2D2]

Update #11

Making a custom bracket for the screen

Today, I worked on mounting the shoulder buttons at the back and started working on the bracket for the screen.

Using Loctite Epoxy Plastic Bonder and the screw posts (salvaged from step 1 video), I laid out the screw along the top of the screen. The LCD is temporarily mounted using hot glue.



Here's the custom bracket. Top shows the bracket before the screw posts for the other of the housing is glued. Bottom of the pic shows were the screw posts will be added.



Finally, here's how I mounted the shoulder buttons at the back:

Looks awesome!!! What did you make the custom lcd bracket out of?

[Camble]

Looks awesome!!! What did you make the custom lcd bracket out of?

I could be wrong, but it looks like modelling styrene.

[chiz]

Sorry for the late reply guys. I'm swamped with work on my day job and has not had the time lately to visit the forums. Nways...

@Retrohead95
I just cut the hole using the pin vise + jeweler's saw technique then widened the hole slowly using a set of needle files.

@Deadtime
Yes, it can be done.

@yves1984
Thanks! I have not done any shopping list but would probably do later.

@Fleder
Nice! I see you're also cutting using the pin vise technique? How do you find it so far?

@wesker16
I will not recommend if you only need the SNES controller and still connect it to the Teensy. There's better controller board being sold in this forum that is easier to solder on.

@Ganreizu
See my reply below:

Can you elaborate more on this audio option?
[Chiz] sure

Specifically:

How does it fit in the case? Is it obnoxiously big or is it a good fit?
[Chiz] The USB audio board is quite small. I will post pics later

Can we still use a volume wheel?
[Chiz] I probably will not be using the original GB wheel with the board. I'm thinking of using the space where I removed the mic jack in the USB audio board.

Will the speaker go mute when headphones are plugged in?
[Chiz] This can be done if you use a stereo jack with disconnect feature.

What speaker should we use that will fit in the case's speaker mold?
[Chiz] You can use the original GB speaker or any 8ohm micro speaker that would fit in the speaker cavity. I'm waiting for a 2w micro speaker to see if it will sound louder.

Do we give up usb bluetooth's usb port for this?
[Chiz] To be honest, Bluetooth for me is not necessity and in the event I'll need it, I will just use the exposed/external USB port that I will attach in the internal hub.

I really want to use this option for audio; sounds very easy and no mess. I feel like we would have to take it apart to get a volume wheel though, and i feel like space is a concern. Then again i'm using a RPI0 and you're using a far larger RPI2B+ so i guess it's not so bad?
[Chiz] Personally, I find the using the USB audio easier to implement than going the PWM route. I will post a reference on how to use a USB audio.

@Rod2D2/@Camble
You are correct. I used modelling styrene. However, you can use old credit/gift cards that you no longer use,

[Retrohead95]

Sorry for the late reply guys. I'm swamped with work on my day job and has not had the time lately to visit the forums. Nways...

@Retrohead95
I just cut the hole using the pin vise + jeweler's saw technique then widened the hole slowly using a set of needle files.

@Deadtime
Yes, it can be done.

@yves1984
Thanks! I have not done any shopping list but would probably do later.

@Fleder
Nice! I see you're also cutting using the pin vise technique? How do you find it so far?

@wesker16
I will not recommend if you only need the SNES controller and still connect it to the Teensy. There's better controller board being sold in this forum that is easier to solder on.

@Ganreizu
See my reply below:

Can you elaborate more on this audio option?
[Chiz] sure

Specifically:

How does it fit in the case? Is it obnoxiously big or is it a good fit?
[Chiz] The USB audio board is quite small. I will post pics later

Can we still use a volume wheel?
[Chiz] I probably will not be using the original GB wheel with the board. I'm thinking of using the space where I removed the mic jack in the USB audio board.

Will the speaker go mute when headphones are plugged in?
[Chiz] This can be done if you use a stereo jack with disconnect feature.

What speaker should we use that will fit in the case's speaker mold?
[Chiz] You can use the original GB speaker or any 8ohm micro speaker that would fit in the speaker cavity. I'm waiting for a 1w micro speaker to see if it will sound louder.

Do we give up usb bluetooth's usb port for this?
[Chiz] To be honest, Bluetooth for me is not necessity and in the event I'll need it, I will just use the exposed/external USB port that I will attach in the internal hub.

I really want to use this option for audio; sounds very easy and no mess. I feel like we would have to take it apart to get a volume wheel though, and i feel like space is a concern. Then again i'm using a RPI0 and you're using a far larger RPI2B+ so i guess it's not so bad?
[Chiz] Personally, I find the using the USB audio easier to implement than going the PWM route. I will post a reference on how to use a USB audio.

@Rod2D2/@Camble
You are correct. I used modelling styrene. However, you can use old credit/gift cards that you no longer use,

I see in one of your pics that you wired the composite display to the pp test points on the pi 2. Do you know if the pi 3's share the same test points?

[Ganreizu]

Can we still use a volume wheel?
[Chiz] I probably will not be using the original GB wheel with the board. I'm thinking of using the space where I removed the mic jack in the USB audio board.

Hmm okay. I just want a way to adjust volume without opening the case at all.

Will the speaker go mute when headphones are plugged in?
[Chiz] This can be done if you use a stereo jack with disconnect feature.

Will have to research this more. Do you know any products that would fit our cases well?

What speaker should we use that will fit in the case's speaker mold?
[Chiz] You can use the original GB speaker or any 8ohm micro speaker that would fit in the speaker cavity. I'm waiting for a 2w micro speaker to see if it will sound louder.

So the speaker that wermy suggests would work then, great! Are we able to use the same amplifier that he uses as well?

[Chiz] Personally, I find the using the USB audio easier to implement than going the PWM route. I will post a reference on how to use a USB audio.

Yes i agree completely. I have already ordered a USB audio device. I just don't quite understand how to set it up with a raspberry pi zero. I'll need to wait for wermy's part 4 or your reference to better understand how i would get audio to work.

Thank you for the idea and the help!

[wermy]

This is looking awesome chiz! Love the shoulder buttons.

[chiz]

@Wermy
Thanks!

@Ganreizu
I've posted the guide on configuring Retropie to use a USB audio device.

[Fleder]

@Fleder
Nice! I see you're also cutting using the pin vise technique? How do you find it so far?

It really helped getting the button wells out of the controller case without destroying other parts.
Thanks for the tip!

For other parts, i found it easier to just use the dremel without any drilling first.
But i guess that depends on the tools you have. Would not want do let my dremel catch dust

[chiz]

Update #12

Had some few minutes to work on my build today...

USB Audio Board Dimensions
Some folks are asking should they use a USB dongle for audio, does one need to tear down the dongle and just get the board? The answer is they should. And if they can, desolder the earphone and mic jacks. See below how small a USB audio dongle board can be compared to the Teensy and the PowerBoost 1000C.



Building a Mounting Plate
I wanted to maximize every layer of the GB shell and wanted each layer to be as even as possible to it would be easy for me to lay out the components and would allow me to close the GB shell once done. The solution/approach should also provide a foundation where I could mount the L & R button pads.

My solution is build a "mounting plate" where I can attach the components using double-sided foam tape. Using modelling styrene sheets, I came up with the mounting plate below. Left side of the picture shows the RPi2's location and the mounting plate unattached at the top of the GB shell. Right side of the pic shows the mounting plate screwed to the screw posts where originally the metal cartridge restrictor plate is mounted.



Testing the Layout of the Components
With the mounting plate in place, I can now lay out the components with another layer that has almost 50% surface area of the GB shell. Below is how I plan to lay out the components. The L & R button pads can also now have a foundation where I can mount them directly on top the shoulder buttons.

Note: Component boards are mounted temporarily using sticky tack.



As you can see, there's still some amount of room for the external port, volume controller, etc. The battery will be placed in the battery compartment (duh).

And the verdict if the components will fit?



Yes it does! It's just a matter of cable management now to ensure everything will fit in the shell.

[Camble]

Looking tidy chiz! How well would you say the styrene bracket holds? I'm considering "borrowing" your idea.