Collecting information on alternative displays - please contribute

[SkybotLivendale]

Tried to do a search and didn't come up with anything.
Has any one tried this screen?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013JEV6VA/re ... byb2PP92X4

[Rolen47]

Tried to do a search and didn't come up with anything.
Has any one tried this screen?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013JEV6VA/re ... byb2PP92X4

I don't know anyone that has used that exact LCD, but keep in mind it probably has very low FPS. Displays that use the Raspberry Pi's GPIO link instead of a composite or HDMI connection do not use the Pi's graphics accelerator. Those kinds of displays are not good for games.

[SkybotLivendale]

Tried to do a search and didn't come up with anything.
Has any one tried this screen?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013JEV6VA/re ... byb2PP92X4

I don't know anyone that has used that exact LCD, but keep in mind it probably has very low FPS. Displays that use the Raspberry Pi's GPIO link instead of a composite or HDMI connection do not use the Pi's graphics accelerator. Those kinds of displays are not good for games.

Ah, alright. That would make sense.
Thanks!

[Cellane]

A quick update on the XIANJIE display you can buy on Alibaba and a follow-up to my post from previous page.

Well, after talking with the seller/manufacturer a little bit more, apparently you can ask them not only to modify the display for 5V voltage for you, but also to check the display for dead/stuck pixels. Sigh. Wish I knew that before. It'll cost you 3 USD extra, raising the price to 28 USD for display and 23 USD for postage.

All in all, definitely far from the cheapest option but if you're scared about modifying the driver board, it seems to be a fairly safe way to go.

[mike_louisxvi]

Hey everybody. I am new to this project, and pretty novice when it comes to much of this. I am trying to learn as I go along and use this project as a way to better understand wiring and electronic components. Please bear with me.

I ordered the screen from amazon from "ATian Direct" since it was on Prime and I saw that some of them were working out. I wound up with a case that doesn't have screw holes, but only a click-together back, and no contrast buttons. My board looks like this

IMG_0470.JPG (2.32 MiB) Viewed 11676 times

After some searching, I found this topic: http://sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=89&start=20 , in which someone else got the same board, but sadly removed the wrong IC pad and ruined the screen. Obviously I wont be removing the 8 pin pad, but does anyone have any advice on how to go about using this screen? Someone mentioned using a multimeter probe to check out the pads to see if anything was converting to 5v, but could someone explain more in depth what that means/how to do that? I was hoping I would either have to just solder on a jumper wire like the others, or take out an IC, or do both, which I can do, but I dont know exactly where to modify.


One last newbie wiring thing that I'm not sure I have correct: I am trying to see if the screen runs natively off of 5v, which I don't think it will but I want to be totally sure. I bought a USB cable from the 99cent store and connected the red and black wires from the inside of that (disregarded the white and green data wires) to the red and white wires of the power cable provided with the screen via twisting them and covering with electrical tape. I then plugged that into a 5v pi hut usb power block and then plugged an old xbox into the composites as I understand it usually doesn't start up without the composite thing plugged in and working. The screen didn't fire up, which is what I am half expecting, but I wanted to be sure that I made the right decisions in wiring it up initially with the dollar store usb cable. Am I on the right track here? Do I need to wire it to a direct connection rather than a USB cable that plugs into a power block?

Sorry for the long winded thing, but again, I am new, so any bit of advice would be enlightening I appreciate this forum and project, as it's already gotten me into learning something I wouldn't have otherwise been so interested in. Thanks.

[fcib]

Hey everybody. I am new to this project, and pretty novice when it comes to much of this. I am trying to learn as I go along and use this project as a way to better understand wiring and electronic components. Please bear with me.

I ordered the screen from amazon from "ATian Direct" since it was on Prime and I saw that some of them were working out. I wound up with a case that doesn't have screw holes, but only a click-together back, and no contrast buttons. My board looks like this


After some searching, I found this topic: http://sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=89&start=20 , in which someone else got the same board, but sadly removed the wrong IC pad and ruined the screen. Obviously I wont be removing the 8 pin pad, but does anyone have any advice on how to go about using this screen? Someone mentioned using a multimeter probe to check out the pads to see if anything was converting to 5v, but could someone explain more in depth what that means/how to do that? I was hoping I would either have to just solder on a jumper wire like the others, or take out an IC, or do both, which I can do, but I dont know exactly where to modify.


One last newbie wiring thing that I'm not sure I have correct: I am trying to see if the screen runs natively off of 5v, which I don't think it will but I want to be totally sure. I bought a USB cable from the 99cent store and connected the red and black wires from the inside of that (disregarded the white and green data wires) to the red and white wires of the power cable provided with the screen via twisting them and covering with electrical tape. I then plugged that into a 5v pi hut usb power block and then plugged an old xbox into the composites as I understand it usually doesn't start up without the composite thing plugged in and working. The screen didn't fire up, which is what I am half expecting, but I wanted to be sure that I made the right decisions in wiring it up initially with the dollar store usb cable. Am I on the right track here? Do I need to wire it to a direct connection rather than a USB cable that plugs into a power block?

Sorry for the long winded thing, but again, I am new, so any bit of advice would be enlightening I appreciate this forum and project, as it's already gotten me into learning something I wouldn't have otherwise been so interested in. Thanks.

Have you found a solution for 5v? My screen turns on but is very dim, like the backlight isn't on. I'm stuck as to what modifications I should do if its possible. Same screen+board as yours.

[mike_louisxvi]

I have not found a solution as of yet. I am jumping over to the thread you made about this screen because it seems like people know about it there: http://www.sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic. ... 110#p19110 . Thanks for starting up the conversation!

Hopefully this discussion can contribute to info about the screens.

[mike_louisxvi]

I am posting here and the other thread for visibility. Hopefully this contributes to the conversation and some people have an idea of how to go forward with this screen here.

Okay, I have an update on my screen.

I wound up wiring a 22 gauge red jumper wire like in the picture. I used a more rigid, bendy copper wire than the other wires I was using, so hopefully that was the right choice. My soldering isn't the best, and it kind of lifted the initial red wire out of the contact point, but the solder is holding both of them in place, just a little higher up off of the board.

Here is a photo of this:

IMG_0480.JPG (2.5 MiB) Viewed 11575 times

Like I mentioned before, I wired up the power cable that came with the camera to a 99cent store USB, disregarding the two data wires:

IMG_0478.JPG (2.06 MiB) Viewed 11575 times

Which is plugged into a 5 volt (5.1 actually, i think) power block from a chomecast I had laying around.

IMG_0479.JPG (2.22 MiB) Viewed 11575 times

I then used a gamecube to plug the composites into the wires that were given with the screen, which is wired up to the board

IMG_0477.JPG (2.63 MiB) Viewed 11575 times

I got everything wired up and....the screen didn't turn on

I fiddled with the ribbon, which is held in by a clasp, and I started seeing something..a flicker. At this point, I'm stuck with this flickering screen, which I feel is a better sign than it not working, but I'm not sure where to go from here. It seems like it just probably need some simple modification. I used my multimeter (a tool I havent used before and need to learn more about), and when I set it to the "10V" setting then probed the ground and end of the jumper wire, it said ".58"

Heres a gif of the flicker. In reality, it looks much clearer, and the brightness seems good.



I appreciate everyones helpful comments. Any idea of where to go from here?

[Zero]

@mike_louisxvi

I don't have your screen but most have 2 video channels and if you connect both at once it does what you've shown in your animated image, a conflicting signal. Try removing the white connector (so just power and yellow are connected). If no luck, plug the white back in and unplug the yellow connector (so only power and white are plugged in). Worth a try perhaps.

If it isn't that then I'd say it's not getting the correct amount of power.

[mike_louisxvi]

@mike_louisxvi

I don't have your screen but most have 2 video channels and if you connect both at once it does what you've shown in your animated image, a conflicting signal. Try removing the white connector (so just power and yellow are connected). If no luck, plug the white back in and unplug the yellow connector (so only power and white are plugged in). Worth a try perhaps.

If it isn't that then I'd say it's not getting the correct amount of power.

I found out from the other thread that I was in fact doing the wrong thing by plugging both of the cables in. I found that the yellow cable was the one that seemed to work, so I de-soldered the white one. Alas, the same problem occurs.

I soldered the yellow wire into where the white wire was just to see what would happen, and I noticed that "AUX 1" shows up on the top right, and it didn't before. I soldered the wire back to where it was before, and it went away. Then I bridged the connection between the two spots with solder (just the yellow wire touching), and I got the "AUX 1" back. It seemed to kind of brighter too. The AUX thing stays at the top and doesn't go away, which makes me think it is in fact switching between two channels...but I'm not sure how to get that to stop. There may be no solution..

The screen looks really bright and good, which leads me to believe that the power might be good. I figure if its too low voltage or something, that I would get more of a dimming flicker or somewhat stable but intermittent flicker. This looks very much like a channel changing over and over. It's very consistent. Hmmm..