All in One PCB Support Thread

[paulmcg421]

@helder So I've mess up and destroyed the PWN1 pad, am I right in saying I can connect to the left side of R1 instead?

@helder I unfortunately stripped 2 pads from the channel inputs on the volume wheel pads on the board, and I also stripped the positive pad for the speaker. Do you know of any way that I can regain sound?

Here you go, all alternate points for the audio circuit.

[Helder]

@helder So I've mess up and destroyed the PWN1 pad, am I right in saying I can connect to the left side of R1 instead?

Here you go, all alternate points for the audio circuit.

Yes but since you destroyed the pad I assume you have some super hot iron and you can easily remove the resistor there if you apply too much heat for too long so be careful.

[Helder]

Helder, about fixing the sound problem by replacing the SMD resistors R15 and R16 on the AIO OR add on 2 resistors on top. Which one you recommand?

Yes as I have mentioned a few pages back for the proper solution to the clipping audio and also as mentioned a few posts above yours to shield the PWM wires to remove static and other noise artifacts. Thanks @oxy93n for the tip.

Forgive me for being stupid, but does it matter from which side you solder the wires? Some seem to come from underneath and solder on the front (the one with the visible POT/Speaker pads) whilst others go through this side and solder underneath.

Thanks

Not sure I understand the question, but a wire connected to the proper pads on both sides of the wire can be routed anywhere that it makes sense to you.

Getting ready to start my first GBZ. So I have a few questions. What gauge wire do I need to use? Also I noticed all the picture diagrams are gone. Is there a place I can see these diagrams again? I also have a PowerBoost Safe ShutOff. Can anyone point me in the right direction on where I can wire all of this up correctly? Sorry for all the questions, and thank you in advance for all the help.

Check @Camble's sale thread or the guides section for the Safe Shutdown install guide, there should be an image guide of a basical install in the first post of this thread and my Sale thread. When I say basic it doesn't not include the Safe Shutdown switch in that guide but following Camble's guide you can integrate the 2. Oh and 26 AWG or 28 AWG is fine for wire.

Well I'm also trying to get audio working on my all in one V2.2.
I've update my config.txt with the following line : dtoverlay=pwm-2chan,pin=18,func=2,pin2=13,func2=4

So here is the result :
Sound is working very weak on the speaker (a Nintendo DS lite speaker), the volume wheel does not seems to work properly, sound is still the same.
Sound is working very loud with some scratches using an earphone but volume wheel still not working.

I've read carefully this thread but since english is no my mother tongue, I feel a little bit confused and I don't want to make a misake on my board. Sorry if it has been asked before.

So if I replace the 4 resistors (R15, R16, R17, R18) on the GBZ all in one V2.2 board with four 100ohms resistors, do you think my problem should be solved ?
Must I modify some other things to get a good sound on my board ?

Many thanks for your help !

Yes replacing them with 100 ohm resistors should fix the issue but shielding as mentioned above on the PWM lines will also help.

[Treguard]

Unfoetunately the aio isn't being recognised straivht away in emulation station, and the usb port ive wired up isn't working. I've doubld checked the solder points and used a multimeter to test.

I noticed on the first page that it mentions connecting the 5v, but I'm unsure where it means to.

On the good side, i'm getting a picture and the pi boots up so the powerstrip is definitely working

Edit:- would the volume wheel not being connected affect it at all?
- i had to use USB 2 as i'd buggered up the first one. It still has solder in rhere that i coukdnt remove. I take it that wouldnt stop usb 2 from working?
- i'm also using one of yhe grounds next to L1 as a ground for the shutdown safety switch. Take it that wouldnt be a problem?
- Also, if the tactile switches are wired incorrectly, would this cause the above problem?
- Lastly. I haven't soldered the pi and the screen directly after one another on the powerstrip. The pi is soldered to the bottom pads and the screen at the top. It was just because of the length of the wire and to have some space. The screen and pi work fine, so I imagine that this wouldn't make a difference?

Just downloading version 4.0.2 to see if that makes a difference. Edit:- No unfortunately it didn't

Just remembered that I think the front of the board had v2.0 on it, but I didn't notice the jumper wire fix. Would that only have affected the USB and not the gamepad?

Thanks. Just trying to rule things out

[Treguard]

Forgive me for being stupid, but does it matter from which side you solder the wires? Some seem to come from underneath and solder on the front (the one with the visible POT/Speaker pads) whilst others go through this side and solder underneath.

Thanks

Not sure I understand the question, but a wire connected to the proper pads on both sides of the wire can be routed anywhere that it makes sense to you.

Thanks. Sorry I didn't explain it very well. That's what I meant - basically if they were like the GPIO pins on the Pi where you can solder the wire on either side of the board.

[Helder]

Unfoetunately the aio isn't being recognised straivht away in emulation station, and the usb port ive wired up isn't working. I've doubld checked the solder points and used a multimeter to test.

I noticed on the first page that it mentions connecting the 5v, but I'm unsure where it means to.

On the good side, i'm getting a picture and the pi boots up so the powerstrip is definitely working

Edit:- would the volume wheel not being connected affect it at all?
- i had to use USB 2 as i'd buggered up the first one. It still has solder in rhere that i coukdnt remove. I take it that wouldnt stop usb 2 from working?
- i'm also using one of yhe grounds next to L1 as a ground for the shutdown safety switch. Take it that wouldnt be a problem?
- Also, if the tactile switches are wired incorrectly, would this cause the above problem?
- Lastly. I haven't soldered the pi and the screen directly after one another on the powerstrip. The pi is soldered to the bottom pads and the screen at the top. It was just because of the length of the wire and to have some space. The screen and pi work fine, so I imagine that this wouldn't make a difference?

Just downloading version 4.0.2 to see if that makes a difference. Edit:- No unfortunately it didn't

Just remembered that I think the front of the board had v2.0 on it, but I didn't notice the jumper wire fix. Would that only have affected the USB and not the gamepad?

Thanks. Just trying to rule things out

So seeing as you messed up the USB solder holes chances are really likely you messed something else up and usb isn't going to work but if I don't see pictures of the usb area front and back I can't make a determination of the damage.

This is becoming a common occurrence of people complaining about things not working when they damaged the board which is why it doesn't work. Take pictures and check the version of the board, all 2.0 boards have the wire fix unless you removed it it should be there as I test each one before shipping them.

[Treguard]

Unfoetunately the aio isn't being recognised straivht away in emulation station, and the usb port ive wired up isn't working. I've doubld checked the solder points and used a multimeter to test.

I noticed on the first page that it mentions connecting the 5v, but I'm unsure where it means to.

On the good side, i'm getting a picture and the pi boots up so the powerstrip is definitely working

Edit:- would the volume wheel not being connected affect it at all?
- i had to use USB 2 as i'd buggered up the first one. It still has solder in rhere that i coukdnt remove. I take it that wouldnt stop usb 2 from working?
- i'm also using one of yhe grounds next to L1 as a ground for the shutdown safety switch. Take it that wouldnt be a problem?
- Also, if the tactile switches are wired incorrectly, would this cause the above problem?
- Lastly. I haven't soldered the pi and the screen directly after one another on the powerstrip. The pi is soldered to the bottom pads and the screen at the top. It was just because of the length of the wire and to have some space. The screen and pi work fine, so I imagine that this wouldn't make a difference?

Just downloading version 4.0.2 to see if that makes a difference. Edit:- No unfortunately it didn't

Just remembered that I think the front of the board had v2.0 on it, but I didn't notice the jumper wire fix. Would that only have affected the USB and not the gamepad?

Thanks. Just trying to rule things out

So seeing as you messed up the USB solder holes chances are really likely you messed something else up and usb isn't going to work but if I don't see pictures of the usb area front and back I can't make a determination of the damage.

This is becoming a common occurrence of people complaining about things not working when they damaged the board which is why it doesn't work. Take pictures and check the version of the board, all 2.0 boards have the wire fix unless you removed it it should be there as I test each one before shipping them.

Thanks for the reply. Will have to check the version in the morning as I can't find my small screwdriver. I didn't notice a wire, but did see that two pins on the USB Hub chip had solder bridging them.









Edit:- Will post pictures of the reverse side as well when I can find my screwdriver in the morning. Just spotted the little red wire fix.

Found it:-






Are there any points where it woul be a good idea to check continuity with a multi meter? What about one of tje two connections at the top that goes to the pi and the small hole below the 'A' in "all in one" ?

[Helder]

From the pictures it seems like they are ok but I can 't get a real good look of the bottom solder holes but the USB wire fix is there so that's good. Next is to check the usb pads on the Pi itself and if they have any bridges but you have hot glue over them so we can't see if that is the problem there or not.

[Treguard]

From the pictures it seems like they are ok but I can 't get a real good look of the bottom solder holes but the USB wire fix is there so that's good. Next is to check the usb pads on the Pi itself and if they have any bridges but you have hot glue over them so we can't see if that is the problem there or not.

Is the wire on the usb fix meant to bridge those two components on the very end (next to each other) see last photo.

I've resoldered rhe connections for P22 and P23 as one had connectivity with the little 'hole' next to it. Checked both ends with a multimeter and no problems.

I also tested connectivity between that little hole under rhe "A" to the relevant input and that came back ok, so i'm guessing the traces definitely aren't damaged

[paulmcg421]

@helder So I've mess up and destroyed the PWN1 pad, am I right in saying I can connect to the left side of R1 instead?

Here you go, all alternate points for the audio circuit.

Yes but since you destroyed the pad I assume you have some super hot iron and you can easily remove the resistor there if you apply too much heat for too long so be careful.

Perfect thanks, Warning very much heeded