Just removed them and soldered them from the different side of the board, also with the legs bend so that the LEDs point to the top of the case. I think it will fit this way. But now I need to desolder two of the LEDs again and replace with new once (I'm glad that I have the same at home). I think I damaged the one for charging and power as they stay off all the time now, maybe got too hot during desoldering.HoolyHoo wrote:If you solder them on top with the legs straight and sitting on top of the board, you should be fine.tralalem wrote:I soldered the LEDs like in KITE guide, they are too low and touching the plastic of the frame, even with a bit removed they are still touching the LCD I think. I will try to remove them and solder them to be at the other side of the board.HoolyHoo wrote:
How did you solder your LED's? If you soldered through the top (the side with Kites logo) and not the bottom or through hole then there should be no modification necessary to bracket. Otherwise some cutting might be required.
[For Sale]HoolyHoo's AIO bracket for Kite's Circuit Sword Board
Re: HoolyHoo's AIO bracket for Kite's SAIO Board
Re: HoolyHoo's AIO bracket for Kite's SAIO Board
I've marked the case via the AIO and it doesn't seem central in the button weeks on the bracket. Is there a way to verify the location on the button wells on the model? Maybe the print warped.
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Re: HoolyHoo's AIO bracket for Kite's SAIO Board
I can't say for your print, but that is a possibility. You can drill your holes center to the bracket as you see it in the picture. What is important is that the bracket and the holes you make line up. If those holes are a little off from kites board then it won't matter.DarrylUK wrote:I've marked the case via the AIO and it doesn't seem central in the button weeks on the bracket. Is there a way to verify the location on the button wells on the model? Maybe the print warped.
- TheDeviantZen
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Re: HoolyHoo's AIO bracket for Kite's SAIO Board
Are the units of the parts in millimeters or inches?
Re: HoolyHoo's AIO bracket for Kite's SAIO Board
mmTheDeviantZen wrote:Are the units of the parts in millimeters or inches?
- Billy Blaze
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Re: HoolyHoo's AIO bracket for Kite's SAIO Board
printed mine. everything fits quite well. thanks again for this model!


Hacks & Homebrews: new games for good old consoles: sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3188
Configure Input for DOSBox: github.com/kiteretro/Circuit-Sword/wiki/Configure-Input-for-DOSBox
Configure Input for PICO-8: github.com/kiteretro/Circuit-Sword/wiki/Configure-input-for-PICO-8
Configure Input for DOSBox: github.com/kiteretro/Circuit-Sword/wiki/Configure-Input-for-DOSBox
Configure Input for PICO-8: github.com/kiteretro/Circuit-Sword/wiki/Configure-input-for-PICO-8
Re: HoolyHoo's AIO bracket for Kite's SAIO Board
Excellent!Billy Blaze wrote:printed mine. everything fits quite well. thanks again for this model!
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Re: HoolyHoo's AIO bracket for Kite's SAIO Board
Just failed drilling the holes in my case because the 3d printed does not line up with the holes on the board..
Arduino sketch for the gamepad (Teensy replacement): http://github.com/oxodao/GBZGamepad
Re: HoolyHoo's AIO bracket for Kite's SAIO Board
Sorry to hear that. Not sure what happened with your print as mine was perfect. You can still print the well less version screen bracket and use wermy wells to save your case so its not a total loss. Best practice I would say is mark the drill hole from Kites board before drilling and verify center. If it is not totally center, as I suspect your print wasn't, you can make your drill holes based off your print as long as its only a little off it will be fine as the holes and wells are the important part because Kites pads have enough tolerance.Oxodao wrote:Just failed drilling the holes in my case because the 3d printed does not line up with the holes on the board..
- mrdude42
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Re: HoolyHoo's AIO bracket for Kite's SAIO Board
It's more important that the holes in the case line up with the bracket than with the hole on the board. As long as the board holes are close enough the buttons will still work fine. (I'm assuming you're also planning to use the SNES button scheme)Oxodao wrote:Just failed drilling the holes in my case because the 3d printed does not line up with the holes on the board..
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