Game Boy Zero case CAD files

[Al3x360]

Hey ! I saw your print nice one too !

With some elbow grease and time, i started to sand the model in a way that you cant see the marks left by the "slising procces" (from CURA in exemple) . i used many sand paper size to achieve such "shiny" case 120 => 240 => 320 => 400 => 800 => 1500 => 3000 . I think using sand paper only, was a mistake : for the next case i printed yesterday, i'll use a proper grater because PLA from E-iCE is warming up very quickly even without applying so much force on the sandpaper .

i took me 5h to sand the whole case . but i added some more details using a metal grater . like on thoses pictures on the attachement .

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i think the best way to process the "hollow" on the buttons ( i mean like on the real GB ) is to use sand paper and try to sand applying force . but this will be not really good :/

[YaYa]

Really cool finish. You can try using water with the sanding paper to achieve a better result ! How do you think you are going to finish the small gaps on the outsides ?
Did you try some acetone vapor to give a glossy finish to the model ?

[Al3x360]

yeah i was really impressed on the print quality from a USD 280 3D Printer the bad quality on the rear, where all the filament is bad and misaligned , was because my glass was not secured correctly with painters tape ... i had a woobly glass and that was funny to watch for sure , but not funny at all after i discovered that eheh . so while printing i added some more tape to secure the whole thing

i think adding melted PLA from the nozzle on the top of the case will do th trick but it's pretty risky, also, i can fill with some paste ( i dont know the word in english ) you know this past that is used on the walls to fil gaps . then paint the case . but i never done this before . so it will be totally new experience for me .

i already heard about acetone vapor but never done it too . i think i have to test this on small parts first

for the side finish, i think using small grater will be ok but i think apply correction to the model to allow the edge to be more visible could be a solution to this . i think apply acetone with soft brush can be done this way too but never tested it before . Ad far as i know, pla is does not react as the ABS reacts. but to verify that , i have to test it before

[SumCanadianGuy]

yeah i was really impressed on the print quality from a USD 280 3D Printer the bad quality on the rear, where all the filament is bad and misaligned , was because my glass was not secured correctly with painters tape ... i had a woobly glass and that was funny to watch for sure , but not funny at all after i discovered that eheh . so while printing i added some more tape to secure the whole thing

Looking good. You need to get some binder clips for your glass and you won't have that issue anymore

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Yes you can use the filler for walls, my wife did it on a helmet I printed and it looks amazing. The word in English would be drywall mud.

[Al3x360]

Hey, i have some paper clips like on the picutre, but i cant use them since i use auto bed leveling on my printer . I printed a fanduct that is too lagre to probe the area without touching the paper clip ... also my bed was warped as many cheap 3D printer so i replace by another one and that is flat now . i secured the new bed using painter's tape that covers all the edges

Ok for the filler . But i want to avoid painting at the moment i need to experience this on small simple 3d printed models before touching the others

[abrugsch]

acetone vapour only works on ABS. if you're using PLA then it doesn't work. The filler you'll want to look for is car body filler rather than wall filler. It sands smooth where wall filler tends to be grainy. In america there is a product called bondo that everyone uses. in UK there's P38 filler.

[SumCanadianGuy]

Hey, i have some paper clips like on the picutre, but i cant use them since i use auto bed leveling on my printer . I printed a fanduct that is too lagre to probe the area without touching the paper clip ... also my bed was warped as many cheap 3D printer so i replace by another one and that is flat now . i secured the new bed using painter's tape that covers all the edges

Ok for the filler . But i want to avoid painting at the moment i need to experience this on small simple 3d printed models before touching the others

I have auto bed leveling too. I just cannot use the front left clip but the other clear. If tape works than it works. In 3D printing we just go with what works lol.

[RetroRocket]

Really cool finish. You can try using water with the sanding paper to achieve a better result ! How do you think you are going to finish the small gaps on the outsides ?
Did you try some acetone vapor to give a glossy finish to the model ?

Another hot tip from a professional model maker: add some dish soap to the water you dip your sandpaper into; it prevents material from building up in the grit and ruining your paper. This works better the finer grit you use. Also make sure you're only using wet or dry sandpaper with water; lower grits (220 and below) have a paper backing that doesn't take too kindly to water.

Cheers!

[YaYa]

Thanks for the tips RetroRocket. I didn’t know for the soap, this is usefull and appear to be so logical (now that i know that hahaha)

[Vineheart01]

Things like this make me wish the printer i bought had a slightly bigger printspace...
4.1" was NOT enough when considering electronic projects. Lesson learned i guess...