chiz's GB Pi2

[chiz]

@Everyone
Thanks for the well wishes! I really appreciate it guys!

Right now, I'm back in the US. Visa situation has been resolved -- at least for the next couple of years.

@otaola.franc

hello chiz!
do you think we could add another pair of L R (L2 and R2) like you made for the L and R buttons. (so we can play psx !)
do you think we could use the custom PCB like this one to make more place inside the gameboy
http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/co ... -y-version

Yes, you can drill two more holes at the back but you'll have to plan the placement of the additional silicone pads for the buttons as the L2 & R2 are nearing the HDMI port as well as the hole for the volume control. It would be a stretch but can still be done.

@Robots86

Good luck with everything chiz. Quick question if you get chance to answer it. Im working on a second build and want to use snes triggers. Can i use the trigger boards from the snes and wire them directly to the teensy?

Apologies for the late reply. You probably figured it out by now. Nonetheless, to answer your question, yes you can directly connect it to the Teensy but you'll need to connect both ground wires to the Teensy.

Had some time today to continue the build...

*** Update #15 ***

Change from Styrene Board to Stripboard

I was concerned with the heat that will be generated by the RPi 2 and the battery that it might melt the styrene that I originally intended to be used as a mounting support. Due to this, I replaced the styrene with stripboard as this should be able to withstand the heat plus with the copper strips, it makes a nice platform to solder JST connectors. Also, with the wires soldered to the stripboard, I can hide some of the wires to help make the build cleaner.

Below is the wiring plan for the stripboard:
[spoiler="stripboard wiring plan"][/spoiler]
Here's what I've soldered so far:
[spoiler="Using a stripboard for the wiring connections"]


[/spoiler]
A Solution to the PowerBoost Status LEDs

In an effort to minimize wires and soldering but still be able to see the PowerBoost status LEDs, I thought of a simple and easy solution that involves boring holes and using hot glue as an alternative to fiber optic cables.

For this solution, I had to put the PowerBoost on top of the DMG shell and drilled holes to where the LED indicators will sit. Afterwards, I added hot glue and trimmed the excess. See steps below:
[spoiler="hot glue as alternative for fiber optics"]
[/spoiler]
Here's how it looks like with the PowerBoost LED charging indicator lit:
[spoiler="hot glue trimmed with status LED lit against the hot glue"]
[/spoiler]
So far, I got the screen and the USB port working. Next is I need to work on the controller board, audio, battery connection and the LCD controller buttons.

Later guys!

[Robots86]

@Everyone
Thanks for the well wishes! I really appreciate it guys!

Right now, I'm back in the US. Visa situation has been resolved -- at least for the next couple of years.

@otaola.francH

hello chiz!
do you think we could add another pair of L R (L2 and R2) like you made for the L and R buttons. (so we can play psx !)
do you think we could use the custom PCB like this one to make more place inside the gameboy
http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/co ... -y-version

Yes, you can drill two more holes at the back but you'll have to plan the placement of the additional silicone pads for the buttons as the L2 & R2 are nearing the HDMI port as well as the hole for the volume control. It would be a stretch but can still be done.

@Robots86

Good luck with everything chiz. Quick question if you get chance to answer it. Im working on a second build and want to use snes triggers. Can i use the trigger boards from the snes and wire them directly to the teensy?

Apologies for the late reply. You probably figured it out by now. Nonetheless, to answer your question, yes you can directly connect it to the Teensy but you'll need to connect both ground wires to the Teensy.

Had some time today to continue the build...

*** Update #15 ***

Change from Styrene Board to Stripboard

I was concerned with the heat that will be generated by the RPi 2 and the battery that it might melt the styrene that I originally intended to be used as a mounting support. Due to this, I replaced the styrene with stripboard as this should be able to withstand the heat plus with the copper strips, it makes a nice platform to solder JST connectors. Also, with the wires soldered to the stripboard, I can hide some of the wires to help make the build cleaner.

Below is the wiring plan for the stripboard:
[spoiler="stripboard wiring plan"][/spoiler]
Here's what I've soldered so far:
[spoiler="Using a stripboard for the wiring connections"]


[/spoiler]
A Solution to the PowerBoost Status LEDs

In an effort to minimize wires and soldering but still be able to see the PowerBoost status LEDs, I thought of a simple and easy solution that involves boring holes and using hot glue as an alternative to fiber optic cables.

For this solution, I had to put the PowerBoost on top of the DMG shell and drilled holes to where the LED indicators will sit. Afterwards, I added hot glue and trimmed the excess. See steps below:
[spoiler="hot glue as alternative for fiber optics"]
[/spoiler]
Here's how it looks like with the PowerBoost LED charging indicator lit:
[spoiler="hot glue trimmed with status LED lit against the hot glue"][/spoiler]
So far, I got the screen and the USB port working. Next is I need to work on the controller board, audio, battery connection and the LCD controller buttons.

Later guys!

Glad you're all sorted mate. I like what you have done for the status led. It looks very clean.
I havnt got round to sorting my buttons yet. My solders gone missing. Will i be ok grounding at the button pcb rather than the teensy? I presume it dosnt matter. And am i right in saying that it dosnt matter which side i use as ground when soldering to the single button board?

Thanks

[chiz]

@Robots86
You are correct on both.

The only advantage if you wire to the button PCB is there are enough ground terminals that you can solder to (common ground) making only one ground connection to the Teensy. If the button PCB doesn't have anymore terminals for additional buttons, you wire directly to the Teensy but you can solder the ground to the button PCB. You have to program the Teensy though to make it recognize the additional buttons that you plan to add.

[otaola.franc]

chiz thanks for answer and glad to see that everything is getting better!
what do you think about using a Pi3? cause i would love to change my built to yours but i have a pi3 not the 2....
and another question, are you going to make some guide more explicative? because i reaaally would love to make your build, i love how the original gameboy looks...
it s really difficult to make the modifications in the case? i have never donne something like that...

[otaola.franc]

@Robots86
You are correct on both.

The only advantage if you wire to the button PCB is there are enough ground terminals that you can solder to (common ground) making only one ground connection to the Teensy. If the button PCB doesn't have anymore terminals for additional buttons, you wire directly to the Teensy but you can solder the ground to the button PCB. You have to program the Teensy though to make it recognize the additional buttons that you plan to add.

hey chiz
and what do you think about this pcb http://www.sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=434 it has the teensy integrated so it would be take less space inside the case

[chiz]

@otaola.franc

I actually considered using the Pi 3 that's why I'm using JST connectors so I can "upgrade" the Pi anytime.. However, it's a known fact that the Pi 3 has heat issues and with limited space in the DMG shell, even with passive cooling, i.e., using heat sinks, will still not address the heat issues. Perhaps after a year with the Pi 4, these heat issues could be addressed.

There are successful people here in the forums that are using Pi 3s. I say, try that first and if you feel that you cannot live with the heat issues, downgrade to the Pi 2. Just ensure your build will allow easily changing the components when the time comes.

Regarding making a guide. I don't think I can at the moment. I suggest you go through my build log and it should fairly provide you the details for you to replicate my build. I try to be complete as possible with the steps and pictures.

If you're afraid making modifications to the case, I suggest you start slowly, say with a cheap knock-off SNES controller and practice cutting the button wells. This will give you an idea if you're really up to the challenge of modding the DMG case or not. Also, I suggest following my method of using a pin vise and a jeweler's saw if you're not comfortable using a Dremel/grinder. Check my guide as it would show you how I use the pin vise and jeweler's saw in cutting the case and everything else including the Pi 2!

Lastly, regardin PRS' button PCB. That and all other button PCBs available here in the forum is very much welcome as it will simplify and make the build so much easier. I'd probably use them on my future builds.

[otaola.franc]

@otaola.franc

I actually considered using the Pi 3 that's why I'm using JST connectors so I can "upgrade" the Pi anytime.. However, it's a known fact that the Pi 3 has heat issues and with limited space in the DMG shell, even with passive cooling, i.e., using heat sinks, will still not address the heat issues. Perhaps after a year with the Pi 4, these heat issues could be addressed.

There are successful people here in the forums that are using Pi 3s. I say, try that first and if you feel that you cannot live with the heat issues, downgrade to the Pi 2. Just ensure your build will allow easily changing the components when the time comes.

Regarding making a guide. I don't think I can at the moment. I suggest you go through my build log and it should fairly provide you the details for you to replicate my build. I try to be complete as possible with the steps and pictures.

If you're afraid making modifications to the case, I suggest you start slowly, say with a cheap knock-off SNES controller and practice cutting the button wells. This will give you an idea if you're really up to the challenge of modding the DMG case or not. Also, I suggest following my method of using a pin vise and a jeweler's saw if you're not comfortable using a Dremel/grinder. Check my guide as it would show you how I use the pin vise and jeweler's saw in cutting the case and everything else including the Pi 2!

Lastly, regardin PRS' button PCB. That and all other button PCBs available here in the forum is very much welcome as it will simplify and make the build so much easier. I'd probably use them on my future builds.

sorry for so many questions u.u ahahaha
you are planning in using a 10k battery inside? do you thing i would have the place even after adding the L2 and R2?
and is there any special programation with the build? i read everything in the post but i didnt see anything.... my problem is that i went with a build and know it took me alooot of money and it is really troblesome... and i thinking about buying some pieces (the ones that i dont have from the other build and change to yours) and at the moment i am a little bit scare because i have spend so much money in it.

[Kilren]

For this solution, I had to put the PowerBoost on top of the DMG shell and drilled holes to where the LED indicators will sit. Afterwards, I added hot glue and trimmed the excess. See steps below:

One of the installation instructions for any power such as the pb1000c is to have it as close to (meaning the shortest possible wire as possible) to the battery. Think that moving it to the top will have any negative result?

[chiz]

@otaola.franc
I have not come across 10000mah LiPo that will fit in the DMG case. With my setup, any battery longer than 2.5in will not fit as it would hit the stripboard.

@Kilren
Yup, I'm aware about that recommendation to keep the wire short, i.e., 3 inches or shorter. The placement of the PB1000C only appears far apart with the battery compartment but it's really not. Assuming I have the battery wired connected in a straight line going to the PB1000C, it's just 2.5 inches.

[Fleder]

Hi chiz, glad to have you back.
I hope everything is sorted out or at least on the way.

Great idea with the LED lights and hot glue as a diffusor!
If i run into troubles using fiber optic cables, i am going to steal your idea, if i may.