Collective V3 issues and how to fix them [If received BEFORE April 2019]

[LilTrublMakr]

Reverse the cables when you do the continuity testing for a true test. The LED comes on because the multimeter is essentially powering it.

R2 on the power board looks bridged to me also. Clear that and try moving the wire (between the LED and U1 chip) up from the pins a little and see what happens. I also had this problem and I reflowed the LED, R1, and U1 and it started working again.

[gosfreyjr]

Reverse the cables when you do the continuity testing for a true test. The LED comes on because the multimeter is essentially powering it.

R2 on the power board looks bridged to me also. Clear that and try moving the wire (between the LED and U1 chip) up from the pins a little and see what happens. I also had this problem and I reflowed the LED, R1, and U1 and it started working again.

I try my best to reflow and the other suggestions, but still did not work. Do you have any more suggestions? How do I test the USB port?

thanks

[LilTrublMakr]

In Helder's post a couple back, he has an image where you can see if there is power coming from the USB connector.


I generally use the outside of the USB connector itself as ground as it is the easiest place to put the black multimeter prong and keep it grounded. You want to test the purple "USB 5V" pins while plugged in and powered.

[gosfreyjr]

In Helder's post a couple back, he has an image where you can see if there is power coming from the USB connector.


I generally use the outside of the USB connector itself as ground as it is the easiest place to put the black multimeter prong and keep it grounded. You want to test the purple "USB 5V" pins while plugged in and powered.

I did that but I get not get voltage reading from the pins.

Thanks

[LilTrublMakr]

Try reflowing these 4 tiny holes on the back of that board. I would not add extra solder unless you cover the nearby holes with something like kapton tape to prevent bridging. The inner 2 of the 4 are the 5v (red circles) and the outer 2 (black circles) along with the 4 big ones are ground


My next guess after that is that the TP4056 chip might have gotten fried.

Is the CN3 connector right next to C2 just flux or is that damaged?

[gosfreyjr]

Try reflowing these 4 tiny holes on the back of that board. I would not add extra solder unless you cover the nearby holes with something like kapton tape to prevent bridging. The inner 2 of the 4 are the 5v (red circles) and the outer 2 (black circles) along with the 4 big ones are ground


My next guess after that is that the TP4056 chip might have gotten fried.

Is the CN3 connector right next to C2 just flux or is that damaged?

I accidentally burn the plastic on the CN3 connector. I got the power board to work and it is ready 5v where needed, but the led does not turn on. When I power it up it has a flickering white screen and the turns off pi and screen after couple of seconds. Could this be a short somewhere? I do ready 5v on the pi two ports, before it turns off.

thanks

[Marcus9199]

Does anyone know the correct dualfet chip that is needed for power fix? Really want to get mine running before I loose everything.

[LilTrublMakr]

4562.



I do offer a service to apply all the fixes if you are not comfortable with doing SMD work like this. Or I can send you one for $0.75 (.25 for the part and .50 for postage).

[Marcus9199]

Thanks for the help! I sent you a message I would like to order one from you.

[gosfreyjr]

Does the chip need to be 4562 L72A?
My chip has 4562 L62S?