Joystick Help Thread

[BlueberryPhazon]

Had to take a break around the holidays but back in now. About to start testing them!

Any luck with these? I only recently had the genius idea to use the c stick so I'm glad someone else already has the ball rolling

[seesalt]

So, yea i I did this thing. But it aint working. I tried 2 different kind of pinouts. But all are not being detected. Anyone know why?

SpoilerShow

[millski]

Took a bit of forum searching to get the info for connecting a Joy Con stick. Thanks to Kite and Hivetyrant I got mine working.

You’ll need a Joy Con stick, a 6-pin fpc 0.5mm adapter and the 4 wire connector from the Circuit Sword kit (assuming that’s what you’re connecting it to).

As per Kites earlier post in this thread red wire goes to 1 on the fpc adapter board, white to 2, black to 4 and green to 5. 6 is unused, 3 is for the joystick button (clicking in the stick) which I haven’t bothered to add as I don’t know of any emulated systems that benefit from it.

You’re putting a 5-pin fpc cable in to a 6-pin adapter, so make sure it’s pushed to the side that the number 1 trace goes to (don’t look at the back of the fpc adapter, it’s numbered different). Most importantly make sure the joystick is upside down when you’re putting it together.

[bailsone]

Hi everyone

maybe a silly question. i got two of those PSP1000 sticks running and they work fine after calibrating via ssh command. Now i thought it would be possible to switch between D-Pad and joystick via Mode Button + L1 and R1 ,but i cant get the joystick work, after assigning the D-Pad Hats as Main input. after reconfiguring Emulation Station with the with the joystick as main the joystick behaves as expected, but again cant switch to D-Pad via Mode Button. did i missed something here ???

[claytonsulby]

Hello!

I've been working with the Kite Circuit Shield and I wanted to use a Nintendo Switch joystick.

I have the FCP-6P 0.5MM breakout board for the ribbon cable, but I have the board flipped so I'm soldering to the pads underneath. So far I have tried soldering the pinouts in 2 ways. The first way is following the original Kite post where pad #1 is VCC, #2 is Up/Down, #3 unused, #4 GND, #5 Left/Right, #6 unused. This didn't work and I realized the numbers are flipped from the other side, so #6 would be #1 and so on. I tried reversing the pinout and that still didn't work. Can someone here look over these pictures of my soldering and see where I might've gone wrong?

In my images:
1. Red -> VCC (aka 3V3)
2. Yellow -> Up/Down (aka Y)
3. Empty
4. Black -> GND
5. Green -> Left/Right (aka X)
6. Empty

SpoilerShow

The two sides of the breakout board I'm using. In the first image, the opposite side of the hole #1 is actually what we've been calling hole #6.

Screen Shot 2020-11-28 at 2.31.18 PM.png (134.39 KiB) Viewed 21363 times

Screen Shot 2020-11-28 at 2.31.11 PM.png (159.41 KiB) Viewed 21363 times

This is my solder job. I know, not the best. I made sure to put the ribbon in upside down.

Screen Shot 2020-11-28 at 2.30.46 PM.png (340.88 KiB) Viewed 21363 times

Screen Shot 2020-11-28 at 2.30.55 PM.png (168.61 KiB) Viewed 21363 times

Screen Shot 2020-11-28 at 2.30.59 PM.png (167.83 KiB) Viewed 21363 times

Screen Shot 2020-11-28 at 2.31.06 PM.png (262.64 KiB) Viewed 21363 times

[wikusr6]

Ok, both C-sticks have arrived finally, as well as the little sockets, got two different types for testing. To get the ribbon to fit in, I had to cut the "wings" off. Perfect so far.

Do you remember where you got those small adapters from?

[makmillion]

Hello!

I've been working with the Kite Circuit Shield and I wanted to use a Nintendo Switch joystick.

I have the FCP-6P 0.5MM breakout board for the ribbon cable, but I have the board flipped so I'm soldering to the pads underneath. So far I have tried soldering the pinouts in 2 ways. The first way is following the original Kite post where pad #1 is VCC, #2 is Up/Down, #3 unused, #4 GND, #5 Left/Right, #6 unused. This didn't work and I realized the numbers are flipped from the other side, so #6 would be #1 and so on. I tried reversing the pinout and that still didn't work. Can someone here look over these pictures of my soldering and see where I might've gone wrong?

In my images:
1. Red -> VCC (aka 3V3)
2. Yellow -> Up/Down (aka Y)
3. Empty
4. Black -> GND
5. Green -> Left/Right (aka X)
6. Empty

SpoilerShow

The two sides of the breakout board I'm using. In the first image, the opposite side of the hole #1 is actually what we've been calling hole #6.

Screen Shot 2020-11-28 at 2.31.18 PM.png
Screen Shot 2020-11-28 at 2.31.11 PM.png

This is my solder job. I know, not the best. I made sure to put the ribbon in upside down.

Screen Shot 2020-11-28 at 2.30.46 PM.png
Screen Shot 2020-11-28 at 2.30.55 PM.png
Screen Shot 2020-11-28 at 2.30.59 PM.png
Screen Shot 2020-11-28 at 2.31.06 PM.png

I know a lot of time has passed since you posted this, but in case anybody else has the same issue;

The only vias I see in that PCB are on the end opposite to the ffc connector, where’d you’d solder a connector or bare wires. I believe by cutting the board you have disconnected the top and bottom traces from one another.